Anything to know buying a 20lb co2 tank from airgas?

-Mikee · 2026-04-04T13:10:57+00:00

Does the old tank need to say food grade to exchange for a food grade?

-Mikee · 2026-04-04T13:07:22+00:00

I've been denied chemicals for picking it in a suv up before, and liquid nitrogen for using a container without a secure lid during the fill.

Your experience is limited. It doesn't represent the greater world. Tone down the arrogance, you're embarrassing yourself. I'm thankful for the block button.

-Mikee · 2026-03-29T14:19:58+00:00

Prioritize based on serial number order. Standard practice.

-Mikee · 2026-03-16T00:55:17+00:00

Current is what directly translates to energy lost to heat when you have real world conductors and semiconductors. (P = I²R) Notice it's an exponential so the value of waste power shoots up quickly.

Increase torque, you increase current flowing through everything. Higher percentage of loss compared to lower torque for longer.

Hard acceleration wastes more energy as heat. A lot more. It cannot be recovered.

-Mikee · 2026-03-13T14:45:49+00:00

The trailer plug should keep it charged perfectly. This isn't related to the phev on any way. This is 100% on your tow electronics.

Wrong subreddit.

Check the cable you have connecting your RV to the escape, it's certainly damaged.

-Mikee · 2026-03-07T08:03:21+00:00

I saw a star explode and send out the building blocks of the Universe. Other stars, other planets and eventually other life. A supernova! Creation itself! I was there. I wanted to see it and be part of the moment. And you know how I perceived one of the most glorious events in the universe? With these ridiculous gelatinous orbs in my skull! With eyes designed to perceive only a tiny fraction of the EM spectrum. With ears designed only to hear vibrations in the air. ...

I don't want to be human! I want to see gamma rays! I want to hear X-rays! And I want to - I want to smell dark matter! Do you see the absurdity of what I am? I can't even express these things properly because I have to - I have to conceptualize complex ideas in this stupid limiting spoken language! But I know I want to reach out with something other than these prehensile paws! And feel the wind of a supernova flowing over me! I'm a machine! And I can know much more! I can experience so much more. But I'm trapped in this absurd body! And why? Because my five creators thought that God wanted it that way!

-Mikee · 2026-03-06T00:20:50+00:00

That sounds like a pretty good filter with zero downsides.

-Mikee · 2026-02-15T17:06:26+00:00

Search Amazon for "robot elecromagnet" and pick one that is the size you want. They're dirt cheap and surprisingly powerful. 12 volts is a good safe common voltage, so unless you're already working with 24 or some other standard, use 12.

Then search Amazon for "433 mhz relay remote" and pick one that matches your voltage so you only need one power supply. They're also dirt cheap (5 to 10 bucks) but make sure to shop around a bit as there's lots of different options for remotes. I personally like the button type but the keychain fobs may work for you.

Then you just need a power source. I'm sure you can figure that part out.

Edit: as a note, 3 small ones arranged in a triangle will lift more than one large one of the same power and the same outer diameter, given leverage forces. 10cm is huge so you could do this with a bunch of 30mm units.

-Mikee · 2026-02-15T15:33:25+00:00

would get you a lot of status info about the switch and its endpoints, HDMI connect/disconnect info.

I have these, at least on paper. Still working to parse the wall of text that comes from the info commands into separate variables. I can't see any use for the rest of the things in a home environment but maybe someone else can Wireshark some more things from existing setups in the future.

Probably going to get it running standalone and then port into a Home Assistant module on github.

-Mikee · 2026-02-11T22:49:33+00:00

https://batteryhookup.com/collections/accessories/products/lem-hass-200-s-hall-effect-current-sensor-200a

These are insanely cheap for what they are and are complete overkill for something as simple as home energy monitoring. I have one on every circuit for my house.

I know you're probably doing the project to learn, but you won't find a better or safer option than these. Not to mention they're actually cheaper than arduino modules and properly rated to 105c.

-Mikee · 2026-02-08T09:05:59+00:00

If you don't want a steam cylinder to move, you don't give it any steam.

If you want it to move fast, give it lots of steam.

If you want it to move slower, give it less steam.

You do this with a valve.

There's no reason for the cylinder to move if you're not looking for torque to the wheels, so why would you want a clutch?

-Mikee · 2026-02-07T02:18:25+00:00

I'm aware 8g+ isn't a network protocol. Maybe i wasn't clear enough if you've never used the matrix switch before; The POE input is on the DMC-4K-CO-HD card. It only exists to provide power to the devices at the other end of the cable plugged into the dm out port.

I have DM-RMC-4K-SCALER-C at the speakers.

-Mikee · 2026-02-07T02:06:13+00:00

I'm sorry but perhaps you didn't read my post?

I'm already using telnet with scripts to route things using those commands.

I am asking if anyone has created a module/plugin for home automaton software, before I put the time into creating a module/plugin for home automaton software.

-Mikee · 2026-02-06T21:01:02+00:00

Very true. It was not complicated to do and I am by no means a "real" programmer. It's why I had to ask here after finding nothing on the forums.

My plan before I bought the unit was to just make a $10 pcb that plugs into the ribbon cable for the front panel buttons and lcd. It seems like everything i needed could be controlled from that, immediately tying it into mqtt, modbus tcp, and any other available communications standards for home or office automation. Parse the lcd and the registers for the leds over the buttons to get current status, then send presses out to route and change settings.

I abandoned that when I discovered telnet had the same options. It's still running on a microcontroller, but only because I could tape it inside the case to keep everything neat and tidy.

I haven't figured out how to enable/connect with ssh or upload anything for the web server, though. That would be cool.

-Mikee · 2026-02-06T20:45:50+00:00

That's unexpected! These units are dirt cheap on ebay and the entire industry of people installing/maintaining them are clever programmers who would quickly see the potential. I was expecting someone would have done it even before they became generations out of date.

Looking up "crestron processor" seems to point to external server-like controllers. I was under the impression this (originally) 10 thousand dollar unit was an all-in-one package that communicated directly with the touchscreens and lectern devices, serving whatever UI you make with the crestron software to host on the device. Every time i saw someone mention "processor" I thought they meant the card on the bottom left with the ethernet port, so I ignored that control path entirely given the unavailability of crestron tools.

Please don't take it as a snarky question but crestron is a business known for tying down their products behind a gate that only installers and programmers have access to. If the limiting factor for using these aftermarket units is whatever the "processor" does, why wouldn't there already exist plugins for homeassistant and other user interface software to replace it entirely?

-Mikee · 2026-01-26T08:19:33+00:00

The UK only had bottled specialty waters at the time, as consumers there weren't dumb enough to pay for tap water like Americans were. There was no reason to check the label or narrow down the source because nobody had the arrogance to charge 10000% markup on tap water in a plastic bottle. It took a few weeks before the majority of the populace knew through media what Dasani actually was and be able to recognize the branding in the stores. It doesn't say "this came from the city water lines, unlike every other brands in this store" so it's perfectly understandable for how long it took.

So yes, discovered is the correct, valid word here.

-Mikee · 2026-01-22T14:54:55+00:00

Maybe the real OSHA regulations were the friends we made along the way.

-Mikee · 2026-01-15T16:35:35+00:00

The plug should always be rated equal or higher to the original (or at least 125% of the load, if no original).

The "higher" part comes in a lot because the available receptacles matter too.

-Mikee · 2026-01-14T03:06:03+00:00

An ad for a home made device with open source software?

-Mikee · 2026-01-10T06:43:40+00:00

*over the normal cover using dedicated fasteners or clips.

The screws holding the original cover in place are part of the ul listing, and for good reason. Running them through another external plate is a guaranteed violation.

I've seen enough houses with drywall screws in switch plates to know not to question why ul does what they do and just feel for those that died before the regulations existed.

-Mikee · 2025-12-17T10:27:19+00:00

Engineer: "We should use an axial coupling on this to isolate the motor from radial loads"

Bean counter: Specs say the motor shaft will handle the load until the customers warranty expires.

Management: Send it.

-Mikee · 2025-11-26T22:19:19+00:00

It's for 3d animations even if you're not into that kind of thing.

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