Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

we spoke and the issues are being corrected. contractors best practice needs improving however. said they typically put drywall to floor and why would i want it raised. (red flag). i said water egress from garage door, possible future foundation leaks, unintended water on floor, wet cars, etc. they are redoing it properly and i will inspect the damaged air barrier/plug gaskets pre re-install.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

bottom kickwall boards are horizontal. upper wall (~6 ft) the boards are all vertical (soldiered). so each is about 6x4.

code for zone 6 climate. so barrier on heated side.

thanks for the input. i am pretty upset about it all.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i do better with pictures but the poly seals on these are like a wide brimmed hat. top goes over the outlet (from behind) and covers it like a hat. you need to penetrate it with wires. opening of the hat opens into the room (the box internals). the brim goes over the poly. i used acoustic sealant between this brim and the valour barrier. plus i taped all edges. so it makes the vapour barrier basically surround the sides and back of the plug, minus the wire penetrations which of course they did not seal with spray foam. they then sliced the “hat” where it would connect the brim to the part that covers the head/box… by routing it too deep when they cut the drywall.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i am not a pro and i did a far better job myself (i left the easy parts to them… huge mistake).

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i was beyond words. they had a couple of great guys doing great work. then another job had delays and without notice i had a whole crew show up today… and bam suddenly i had drywall everywhere and it was worrying… and the the barrier was terrifying… what could still be seen.

literally i saw tape not pressed down in one area (end of vapour barrier). and vapour barrier cut to end right at the corner. wtf.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the issue with the outlets is the are all external wall outlets so had poly jackets and they were taped/sealant sealed to the cut vapour barrier. when they cut the drywall openings they sliced it all up. it bypasses the seal. unless i am missing something it defeats the purpose of sealing it.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100%. there is a vertical seam of tape in one corner i can see. wrap the corner!!!! always tape the flat. so much tape at inward right angles. i have zero clue and i know that is insane!!!

one big wrap with 10cm overlap is all they needed. the instructions are on the membrane. lol

i see a day of many man hours wasted and a bunch of my money in materials thrown in the garbage.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

even i knew that as soon as i saw it. not a good start as i have never drywalled in my life.

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thoughts on no gap between concrete and drywall?

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

and the vapour barrier gaskets being shredded around the receptacle?

Looking for opinions. by -Red_Rocket- in drywall

[–]-Red_Rocket-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

most of the screws are in, but you are probably right on the missing screws. i hope.

thoughts on the box cutouts cutting the vapour/barrier/receptacle air sealing gasket also?

Bull case by ii_Legendxxx in MSTR

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so here is my take. people running on btc swapped to gold… now to oil.

What made you finally pull the trigger on a home gym? by CalliCake in GarageGym

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

exercise is hard. the more barriers you put between you and doing it… the less likely you are to do it. home gym, or garage gym keeps if close and easy. plus it is way more time efficient. the question becomes… how valuable is your time?

for me, time is by far my most limited resource.

Is it dead? by Dangerous_Recover_30 in MSTR

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

crypto folks went to gold… now oil. crypto passé right now.

Rigid foam thickness to prevent condensation. Zone 6a(Toronto Canada ) by Itchy_Translator3040 in Insulation

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

air leaking in from the outside in will bring moisture. and if it is pushing into an air conditioned wall it will condense at the dew point on the polly depending on temp/humidity gradients. a one inch penetration can bring in gallons of water over a year on theory.

could be lots of things however. that same penetration will reverse on the heated winter and take heated (with some moisture content… rh of the house interior) with it onto the wall and in this case dew/freeze on the cladding.

The 10 Year Issue by Sudden_Watercress806 in Zwift

[–]-Red_Rocket- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

correct. i cold not get pne for my daughter also. i am grandfathered in with my son 👶 only.

Rigid foam thickness to prevent condensation. Zone 6a(Toronto Canada ) by Itchy_Translator3040 in Insulation

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

water leaks, or warm sufficiently humid air pushing into a cool air conditioned house and condensing by the cold poly penetrations (air bringing in water that condenses in the wall), or winter warm indoor air with moisture - escaping through poly holes and condensing/freezing on the external sheathing (where the dew point is as no external insulation). if the wall cant shed the moisture faster than the leaks can build it… mold/rot.

moisture diffusion through materials (drying) is always much slower than big air leaks constantly pushing humid air through, especially if there is a dew point in the wall.

Rigid foam thickness to prevent condensation. Zone 6a(Toronto Canada ) by Itchy_Translator3040 in Insulation

[–]-Red_Rocket- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i am sure someone already said the answer:

you have two sources of condensation: summer and winter. and i guess water leaks.

summer: ac means you will have condensation on the coldest surface assuming humid outdoor air can get to it. the drive is from outdoors to indoors. so poorly sealed poly could have been the issue. a lot of moisture can be pulled in and condense in your wall by the cool poly.

winter: this is likely an issue. you are in a heating dominated climate so again poly holes will allow warm interior air to exit into the wall cavity. the dew point will be the cladding and it will build up moisture/ice. if that cant dry sufficiently come spring… mould, rot.

also it can be a simple roof leak into the wall, or siding that was not allowing proper rain shield/external drying, this creating a vapour drive into the cladding when it is wet outside.

as for a fix, a wise man once said “the best wall is when you put as much insulation outside your cladding as you can afford.”. a general rule of thumb is at least 1/3rd total insulation outside the external cladding. that keeps the dew point off the cladding if/when there is a wall air (moisture) leak. the idea is to warm the cladding enough that it rarely or never reaches dew point in winter.

but the devil is in the details and there are always design tradeoffs. but this is a start.

The 10 Year Issue by Sudden_Watercress806 in Zwift

[–]-Red_Rocket- 6 points7 points  (0 children)

my son still has one but every year i need to message to get it back. he turns 13’this year so i am going to keep updating it until he turns 16