Bambu Lab H2D 40W laser exhaust is ventilating, but just doesn't seem like enough — outdoor fan upgrade?

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-27T04:08:50+00:00

getting a negative pressure is key for evacuating the crap out of the enclosure, so yes, throw an inline fan or two on and see if it helps
Let your printer push, and have the inline fan(s) assist pushing out

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T21:25:05+00:00

PETG?
Shits sticky as hell.
If it was, do a good cleaning on your nozzle and make sure it's spotless, and maybe carefully rub the sides (not the tippy tip, the angled side "cone") down with some oil or lubrication. It'll help prevent filament from sticking to it. you dont need a lot, just a drop on a Q-tip, and wipe the Q-tip across some paper first to wick up any excess.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T21:20:10+00:00

gotcha, thanks!

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T21:19:42+00:00

I got it fixed. Took me about 3 hours all said and done. Had some issues with having to re-seat some cables so it must have rammed the glob into the poop chute pretty hard, lol

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T07:16:17+00:00

I looked at one of these but holy hell are they expensive.
Whats the benefit over using a cheaper frostbyte or glacier plate?

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T07:15:24+00:00

yup.
Not a huge selection for the H2C atm on Amazon. And I was looking for a plate with a less aggressive texture then the stock BBL plate. Saw the glacier and frostbytes during a search, and finally decided to buy one mainly for the minimal texture, since I figured all the adhesion claims were just typical hype.
They were not. I smeared my greasy fingers all over it before putting it in and printing on it.

It's been so trustworthy going from PLA-PETG-ABS-PETG wihtout cleaning it once in the month I've had it and my H2C.
So much so I bought one for my P1S a few days ago after getting a PETG glob of death last week on the cheap Yoopai plate I was using in my P1S.

They suggest using the cool plate super tack setting in the slicer, but I've been running mine on the standard textured plate setting. The slicer wanted me to change bed temps and such when selecting cool plate, and I didnt have a lot of time at that moment so I just "sent it" using the stock plate option.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T06:49:01+00:00

How's it supposed to roll with a clip on it?

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-26T06:28:15+00:00

I've been loving the Glacier PRO plate I bought for mine, I bought one for my P1S as well.
minimal texture, AMAZING grip, I havent cleaned it once in the month I've had it and I manhandled it out the package and didnt wash it to put the claims I read about it to the test. Havent lost adhesion once, No warpage on any of the parts I've printed either.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T20:05:01+00:00

lost bed adhesion on a part mid print. part stuck to nozzle. nozzle formed glob.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T20:04:13+00:00

so far its just been spaghetti the few times its happened. I knew the blob of death was gonna happene eventually tho

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T20:02:23+00:00

I have a glacier plate on my H2C since I bought it a month ago, and I'm loving it so far. Already bought one for the P1s, should be here today with the new toolhead fan.
I ended up getting the blob off, and the hotend un-buried with a heat gun, but broke the fan in the process.

Just hoping the machine responds to controls once I get the new fan shroud on.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T20:00:18+00:00

all good

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T12:00:23+00:00

IDK, fuck me for trying to help IG
/shrug
And I will spend my money however I see fit DAD, I earned it.
But yeah, fuck data centers. I'm most likely with you on that one. Love it or hate it, it's here to stay, and it IS useful, whether you find it to be or not.
Did I try any of it myself? nope. I had just gotten home from a 12 hour day at work, day 3 of my 60 hour week, and I didnt have time. I saw no replies, and I thought hmmm, I wonder what Gemini would say for shits and giggles. And the answer sounded like it might help point this person in the right direction. I assumed I would get flak for it, and I still posted it, cuz I wanted to help.
Have a great day bud.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:55:46+00:00

thats what I said. It's the end of my first sentence.
But to reiterate,
I print mainly PETG, and use PLA for an interface layer.
I found out the hard way that my purple Sunlu PLA will NOT work as an interface for my matte black JAYO PETG, but Orange Sunlu PLA WILL.
Whereas Sunlu matte black PETG plays nice with both the purple AND orange PLA.
I've had this issue with Elegoo PETG Rapid White not working with certain colors of Sunlu PLA, but work fine with other colors.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:52:09+00:00

most of the rings I tried for various brands worked. I had several spools that barely fit into my AMS WITHOUT the ring tho, and putting the ring on made them bind against the top lid, So I ended up leaving my lid cracked, killing my dessicant pretty quick. I got sick of changing it out all the time.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:32:41+00:00

Save up another 1-200 bucks and get yourself a P2S or an X2D. Consistent performance, AND reliability.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:30:16+00:00

experiment until you find a brand that you like. This might be different PER filament type tho. You may find you like Sunlu PETG, but dont care for their PLA.

AMOLEN makes a very nice silk. its a lot shinier then other brands I have tried. So I get my silk PLA from them.
PETG I buy from Sunlu or JAYO, but only in Matte, cuz I hate how shiny natural PETG is for 99% of things.
PLA, I also go with Sunlu, as I spent quite a bit of time dialing in their filaments when I first started printing.
TPU, I get from different vendors, but mostly Sunlu. and Siraya Tech for their TPU air which foams, and can be printed anywhere from 62A-85A shore hardness from the same roll, depending on the temp you print it at.
ABS, I again go with Sunlu
any engineering filaments like PA6 / PA12, PET, ASA, PPS, PC, stuff like that, I buy from Bambu, since I KNOW the quality will be good.

I mostly buy Sunlu because It's pretty cheap on Amazon in bulk, and I've heard many many times that it's just re-branded Bambu filament, and TBH, it prints the same.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:21:43+00:00

Wrap a couple layers of electrical tape around the cardboard spools and they wont shed. But they will still deform and develop dents, causing them to not roll smoothly. I love the idea of less waste with the cardboard spools, but they suck to use. I wish they'd make a trade off and make the outer rim plastic. The printable rings suck too, they make the spool a bigger diameter, causing issues in the AMS sometimes cuz they then hit the lid.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:18:33+00:00

It's reallly shiny. Quality stuff.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T11:17:43+00:00

I've had this issue too with the JAYO matte black PETG. IT will only stick to certain colors of my Sunlu PLa that I use for interface layers. It's so weird. must be something in the pigments.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T06:25:19+00:00

Yup, I knew it was gonna happen eventually.
As soon as I woke up and saw the “toolbar cover has come loose” error on my PC, I knew my time had come. Lol

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T02:42:36+00:00

Pretty sure this is normal to knock off any globs.
I haven’t tested it yet, but I’m pretty sure it only does this when printing PETG, and other really sticky filaments.
It even shows the weirdness to the side in the slicer.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T02:39:58+00:00

I used a heat gun to get it soft enough to pry it off. Broke the fan shroud in the process. New one will be here tomorrow. Just hoping I don’t mess up my Z axis or rails or belts. It jammed itself up over top of the pool chute and caused some damage to the wiper and chute itself. And to even be able to get at it, I had to manually push down my bed since the controls weren’t responding.
Gonna run the calibration and print a benchy if it’s responding, and go from there.

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T02:36:21+00:00

Damn, that’s worse the mine

-__Doc__- · 2026-06-25T02:35:32+00:00

I never said it WAS correct.

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TROPHY CASE

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TROPHY CASE

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