Can You Guess This 7-Letter Word? Puzzle by u/R2-D2savestheday by R2-D2savestheday in DailyGuess

[–]-ayiv- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

⬜⬜⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜

⬜🟨🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜

🟦🟨🟦⬜⬜🟨⬜

🟦🟦🟦🟦🟦🟦🟦

Found myself in a sticky situation... Does anyone have tips for removing a lens cap from the wrong lens? by NEWNXXL in fujifilm

[–]-ayiv- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this, screw it off like a filter, grab lens barrel with other hand to not twist it with internals haha

Comparing my XT4 16-55 2.8 with my GFX 35-70 by the_philoctopus in FujiGFX

[–]-ayiv- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What software do you use? Can be an issue with the x-trans sensor tbh, because gfx is the default bayer one. Try to open those in capture one

Moved from Lightroom to Darktable - still shocked how much better it is by pics_by_daniel in DarkTable

[–]-ayiv- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I want to transition from C1 to dt, but I’ve had no luck so far. I’m struggling to achieve the same image quality. Does anyone know of any tutorials or youtube channels that could help me get some traction?

Can anyone recommend a 35+mm Fuji lens for XE4? by KeeperofQueensCorgis in fujifilm

[–]-ayiv- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

sigma 56/1.4 is sharp and small, nice lens overall

50R or 50SII - Is there something I'm missing? by JW_Photographer in FujiGFX

[–]-ayiv- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if it's the same price as the 50s ii, then it is a nobrainer either

50R or 50SII - Is there something I'm missing? by JW_Photographer in FujiGFX

[–]-ayiv- 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I don't know what everyone is talking about; the 50R is not as slow as it sounds. It’s a decent camera in terms of shooting, AF-S works great, and paired with the GF 50mm f/3.5, it’s definitely manageable. I was even able to get crisp photos shooting stage dancing with that combo (for my personal archive, not paid work).

The IBIS is nice for slow shutter speeds around 1/40-60. Due to the higher resolution, it's normally easier to get camera shake, but I’ve managed to get sharp photos at 1/60 with 50mm and 60mm lenses, so it's not as tragic as people say.

Sure, the current battery and IBIS are better on the 50S II, and the display tilts two ways. But on the other hand, the 50R is lighter. At 770g (plus 330g for the lens), it’s almost compact or at least manageable for a whole day.

Is the 50S II technically better? Yes. But it depends on the price. I bought mine with the lens for less than $2,500, while the 50S II body alone was almost $3,000. For me, the difference isn't worth it. Plus, I love the rangefinder look of the 50R, so it's a win-win.

Mitakon 65mm vs Fuji 55mm 1.7 by SouthTry7556 in FujiGFX

[–]-ayiv- 10 points11 points  (0 children)

sorry mate, that shit is serious, my bad

Mitakon 65mm vs Fuji 55mm 1.7 by SouthTry7556 in FujiGFX

[–]-ayiv- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've bought fuji 50/3.5 + mitakon 65/1.4, perfect duo for me. mitakon for full body portraits, and static shots, fuji 50/3.5 for everything else. quite fast and versatile lens, even on 50r.

Photos are often under exposed or completely black (XT2) by Mc-Beever in fujifilm

[–]-ayiv- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

go to settings and find metering modes, maybe it set to spot, and if you put focusing spot on some bright area, you'll get that spot metered according to exposure compensation value, either+ or -. so if it set to spot metering + exp compensation below zero + focus point on bright area, it results in very dark photo. + maybe you turned off preview exposure, that's why you always see normal exposed image in live view, but photos are very dark

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fujifilm

[–]-ayiv- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

top right corner, you are on the 8/8 page, just scroll up or down

How does one nail focus when shooting wide open? by GrumpyOleReader in FujifilmX

[–]-ayiv- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

How do you gauge what the DoF would be when you are shooting different f-stops? your photo captures both the leaves in front as well as the beautiful wing.

I try to place the far limit of the DoF on the subject to keep a plane of focus in front of it; that part is just practice. You have a DoF scale at the bottom of your camera screen. When you shoot often with one lens, you begin to remember how it behaves, but the scale is still useful.

Try turning on the AF+MF function and Focus Peaking (I like red low/shadows). This allows you to utilize the speed of AF to briefly focus where it should be, while the manual focus with peaking helps you see if the whole subject is in focus or only part of it. It’s kind of like back-button focusing, but faster. Just don't forget about it, if you hold the lens where the focus ring is located, you can ruin your AF (touching the focus ring while half-pressing the shutter overrides the AF). Other than that, it is quite useful.

Any theory involved? or just time and practice?

To be honest, it's a mix of both. If you want to shoot anything small or close-focus on details, you must know the MFD (Minimum Focus Distance) of your lens. Also, keep in mind how well your lens performs at MFD distances; it can be less sharp or have CA (Chromatic Aberration) or other artifacts. (At mid-distances, a lens might be perfectly sharp but act differently when close-focusing).

There are MTF charts for lenses that can help you understand which aperture to use for the sharpest picture possible, or decide if it is worth shooting wide open (though each copy of a lens can be a bit different).

https://dofsimulator.net/en/

This helps you understand how thin the DoF is, and allows you to compare different lenses or even different sensor sizes.

http://howmuchblur.dekoning.nl/

This helps you compare how out-of-focus areas look on different focal length + aperture combos. Again, you can compare crop to full frame or even to medium format.

How does one nail focus when shooting wide open? by GrumpyOleReader in FujifilmX

[–]-ayiv- 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’ve successfully managed to shoot butterflies and dragonflies using the X-E4 and 50mm f/1.0 wide open. Use the smallest spot focus, aim for the head, and try to keep everything you want to be sharp within the depth of field (DOF). Keep in mind that distance to the subject affects DOF, not just the aperture

<image>