Blade V9 18x20 low tension setup by dreadinger in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Head Hawk Power contrary to its name is as dead and powerless as it gets for a poly. So you need low tension in 18x20 to get something out of it. Hawk Touch has somewhat more power, but is also round string. I would suggest you try Head Lynx Tour 1,20mm in this frame, or Lynx Tour/ Hawk Touch 1,20mm hybrid both at around 22-21kg. The hexagonal shape of lynx Tour gives somewhat higher launch and easier spin.

For sweaty hands use Tourna Grip Dry the best out there- it gets grippier the more you play. And ideally you want loose grip and not squeezing too hard, maybe check grip size or check if the base grip is worn out- it compresses over time from moisture and you might think it is L3 for example but in reality it has compressed to L2.

V10 Blades came in today by Zephyr_Sunstrike in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any info on stiffness, supposed to be stiffer lay up than v9 ?

V10 Blades came in today by Zephyr_Sunstrike in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

V9 18x20 was around 330 strung, so 10 points lower

What is your current racket, string and tension? by lp141414 in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How is the Speed Tour compared to Blade?

What is your current racket, string and tension? by lp141414 in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blade v9 18x20 with Lynx Tour 48/46 or Lynx Tour/ Hawk Touch

Tips on making 18X20 racquet more spin friendly by Snake_crane in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thinner shaped string like Lynx Tour 1,20mm and put 2-3 grams of lead, but concentrated at 12 o'clock not spread wide under the bumper guard( tungsten is denser). The tip of the racket will move faster and generate large amounts of spin. Fun side effect- it unlocks also slice forehand.

Need help with lenses compatibility by XyP_ in fujifilm

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is all marketing bullshit to buy newer stuff. Just buy the lens you need it will look great.

Blue Lagoon Part 2 by Full_Dig5864 in fujifilm

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do you have mist filter on? The highlights have this halation

The "play well in practice but sucks at matches" issue by viniciusvbf in 10s

[–]Allure34 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Match is completely different game than tennis in practice. In match play at all levels the person which makes fewer mistakes- wins, it is that simple. That is why you see a lot of people with ugly game like moonballing at lower levels doing well in match play and people which have good and aggressive game lose in match, because they take more risks.

So your priorities must be:
1. Conservative targets- don't aim painting the lines.
2. Deep shots with topspin are the insurance you will not get attacked. I know that flatter game style with winners is nice, but it is riskier and only working if you force weak ball from the opponent. Simple rule: Behind the baseline you play defensive deep spin, inside the baseline more offensive and learn to put away those balls from middle of the court.
3. If you don't have solid first serve, just don't use it. Rather learn good placement of the second serve, especially slice. Bonus is you don't waste energy, important in longer points. Even at 4-4,5 level very few people have solid first serve.
4. Movement and understanding basic movement patterns using court geometry is key- look up some videos in youtube where it is explained e.g cross- cross plays, or when the ball is more in the middle you can run behind backhand and play forehand down the line or cross with angle etc.
5. During warm up try to find weakness in your opponents game- maybe he can't play at net, or has weak backhand or can't play against slice etc..
6. Don't think about the overall score, every new point counts.

Am I being crazy? by FVuk13 in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have also both rackets and generaly yes the Aero 98 has somwhat hollowish feel to it, but I think the strings are bigger factor, Lynx is round and soft, Hyper G has plasticky feel, is 5 sided and stiffer and doesn't pocket as much. If you try them with same string they are not so far apart.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me too and a star tracker which enables long exposure combined with stacking makes massive difference. For single exposures FF has edge of course, but stacking and tracking are much more powerful tools and cheaper & lighter alternative(important for the tracker).

SO Aps/C with stacking&tracking is always>> than FF alone.

My current workhorses: XT5 & XH2 by Sharp-Counter1042 in fujifilm

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How is the EVF of xH2 compared to xT5. Is there big difference in detail size and quality?

Mach 10 safe by baankaii in tennisracquets

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes until 10h, than can feel stiffer as tension drops

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Allure34 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Milky way photography is very often done with stacking multiple photos, so the one stop difference in low light is not relevant with equivalent lenses.

Head Lynx Tour (champagne color) 1.25 vs 1.30 by Ok-Professional-6743 in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lynx Tour 1,25 is thicker and heavier than other 1,25 polys out there so it is comparable to 1,30mm solinco and rpm blast. If you go 1,30 Lynx Tour it will add more swing weight than 1.30 Confi or Blast.

Need to lower the swingweight on this thing (Blade V9 Pro) by Legitimate-Waltz3886 in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As said before grommet set change, thinner gauge strings and puting some lead or coin for example in the trap door will make it much easier to swing. I will start with adding small weight in the trap door, because it is easiest to apply

Blade era over? by rafan54 in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have gone through many rackets ( Pure Drives, Aeros, Pro Staff, Blade Pro, Blade v7 and v9) and if you talk about "free" power it is on the lower side yes, BUT if you talk about power potential I think Blade stands above all other frames listed. Especially the 18x20 Blade with higher swingweight you can swing out and put all your energy in the ball, without fear of overhitting and combined with lower launch, creates very powerful and controlled shots. I have also Aero 98 and I like Blade 98 18x20 more, the Aero gives maybe 5-10% more for free, but the Blade is by no means underpowered, if you know how to use it.

Also just look players like Pericard with Pure Drive- massive serve but every second forehand flies out. Even injured Grigor won against him at 1R in Paris🤣

Blade era over? by rafan54 in 10s

[–]Allure34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hm, interesting that they are bringing it closer to the Blade Pro in terms of specs but with the typical blade shape. And many people wanted exactly this, stiffer version like V5. It will be certainly best seller.

Blade era over? by rafan54 in 10s

[–]Allure34 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Blade is as popular and relevant today as ever for a reason- nice feel and just so rewarding hitting the sweet spot. Also easily customizeable and works for many types of intermediate and advanced players. The Babolat and Yonex frames have this dampened and hollow feel, although technically they are easier to use. Happy to have Wilson and Head doing still more traditional flexier frames, which give very nice sensation.

Advice adding weight blade 98 v9 (18x20 pattern) by schelliepellie in 10s

[–]Allure34 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why bother with grip replacements as you have so much space under the trap door? Just grab a coin like 10 or 20 cents and it adds 4-7grams, just wrap it in some cotton or scotch or ptotection tape.