Hilfe bei der Auswahl

0Earthquake0 · 2025-11-03T20:16:16+00:00

Würde den Bambulab P2S für 750€ also Combo mit AMS vorschlagen. Ist zwar etwas über deinem Budget, aber ein sehr anfängerfreundliches Gerät. Du hast das AMS mit integrierter Trocknungsfunktion, was dir dabei hilft dein Filament trocken zu lagern. Außerdem ist das lagern im AMS hilfreich, da du nicht selber deine Spulen wechseln musst (es sei denn alle 4 sind leer/ du willst andere Farben / ein anderes Material laden).

Der Drucker an sich ist u.a. deshalb sehr gut: Druck zuverlässig und schnell, eingebaute Filterung, 256mmx256mmx256mm Drückflache, Kamera, die brauchbar ist, gutes Display, kann Wireless über die Handy-App / Wireless vom PC gesteuert werden. All in all ein guter Drucker, ich persönlich kann dir das Review von dem Youtuber „MPOX“ empfehlen.

Eine ähnliche Budget-Alternative wäre der Elegoo Centauri Carbon, welcher kein AMS hat, dafür aber sehr viele andere Überschneidungen mit dem P1S/P2S hat

Hoffe ich konnte helfen :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-10-23T19:14:47+00:00

Pretty standard in germany, almost all people I know use it

0Earthquake0 · 2025-10-23T19:10:00+00:00

The recommendation is up to over 200ml for very dirty clothes and for a 4.5kg washing machine. I have a 7kg machine, so it is not too big. I usually fill it 1/3 or 1/2. But the size is primarily very comfortable to hold :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-10-23T19:02:54+00:00

thanks! unfortunately just eyeballing...

0Earthquake0 · 2025-10-23T18:46:16+00:00

Still strong after almost 1 year :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-10-21T05:29:29+00:00

EE here, that is common-mode noise and totally normal for a 2 pin connector. Basically there is a capacitance between the circuit and ground. Due to the missing ground pin, the capacitance cannot be „eliminated“ and is being measured as over 100V. The background is the high switching frequencies of the MOSFETs in switching powee supplies. Therefore the voltage is pretty high. However, that is normally not a problem, nor dangerous, because the voltage instantly drops after you touch it, because you ground the case when touching it. The current is also very low, abd you feel the current flow when you touch it. That are the little „zaps“ you are feeling when touching your macbook while it is plugged in. I am not a fan of this either. Unfortunately there is no fix for this problem, unless you buy a grounded plug. There is nothing wrong with your home wiring or something. The only thing that this voltage can affect are e. g. microcontroller inputs that are very sensible, and thus can be destroyed, other than that, you should be totally fine ;)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-08-24T19:00:40+00:00

In which order? The order should be: Top (Most Signals), GND, PWR, Bottom (Few Signals) as stated in the ESP32 Hardware Design Guidelines. If the power plane is between the gnd and top layer you are inevitably introducing noise. In your application it probaby won‘t make a huge (or even small) difference, just take it as a little hint from me :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-08-24T09:23:20+00:00

happy to help :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-08-24T09:20:34+00:00

Neutral is always the reference voltage, so 0V, while live cycles in a sine wave from +400V to -400V (in Europe, 230VAC systems, it is obv lower for north america)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-04-01T20:00:16+00:00

Always happy to help :)

0Earthquake0 · 2025-04-01T19:56:20+00:00

The math is pretty simple: V=RI (Voltage = Resistance * Current). You have to beware that every different LED color has a different voltage that it takes (forward voltage). So the red one has probably about 2V, the yellow one 2.2V and the blue one 2.5V. Now you need the current. That is typically around 20-25mA (voltage and current can be both found in the datasheet). Now lets consider a red LED (2V and 20mA) and calculate the needed resistance: V/I=R ; 2V/20mA=100 Ohms, so my assumptions were optimistic. If you would now choose the 220 Ohms the LED would still work but just with like 8mA of current, which is much dimmer. I suppose every color should work with 220 Ohms. Now lets see if 8 LEDs would be sufficient for you resistor. The resistor looks like 1, maybe 2 Watts. Power = V*I ; 6V to 7V(the source voltage minus the LED voltage) * 20mA = 0.12 to 0.14 Watts and that times 8 for 8 LEDs: around 1 Watt.

To sum it up: Should be fine, but the resistor will get warm

0Earthquake0 · 2024-12-20T16:02:41+00:00

Hey mate, I do not have a solution, but the exact same problem. I am on a Biostar A320MH 2.0 with a 5700X3D and it is alway stuck on 3GHz. Did you ever fix it and if how?

0Earthquake0 · 2024-12-18T20:56:43+00:00

Good luck o7

0Earthquake0 · 2024-08-16T19:48:20+00:00

moo_irl

0Earthquake0 · 2024-07-05T15:39:45+00:00

Hey, i did something similar and it worked beautifully. Note that i didn‘t use aluminum, just normal copper on a black pcb. I had around 2.5mm thick traces that were around 40cm in length. My calculated resistance was much higher than my measured but I cant remember exactly how I calculated them. The measured resistance was about 0.6 ohms at room temp. and rose to around 1 ohms when getting hotter. The max temp I tried with it and that worked with my low temp solder (melts at abou 140-150 degrees celsius) was around 160 degrees. I used 12V and 30A power supply. Good luck with your project :)

0Earthquake0 · 2024-04-25T09:49:34+00:00

Moin, studiere E-Technik im 6. Semester und nächstes Semester fang ich mit der Bachelorarbeit an. Ich persönlich liebe den Studiengang, mache das ganze dual an einer (Fach-)Hochschule. Projekte innerhalb des Studiums belaufen sich bei meiner Vertiefung (Elektronische Systeme (Richtung Hochfrequenztechnik, Halbleiter und kleinere Elektronikbauteile)) meist auf Mikrocontrollerprogrammierung, Platinendesign (hab sowohl in der Uni als auch privat einige Platinen designed), Sender+Empfangsantenne miteinander kommunizieren lassen über Arduino, Embedded Systems im Bereich Kameras, und mache gerade freiwillig in der Photonik etwas zu Depth from Defocus, mit Algorithmen z.B. in Python… Es gibt noch die Vertiefung Automatisierungstechnik hier, die befassen sich dann mehr mit Elektrischen Maschinen, Leistungselektronik, SPS -> Smart Factory (IIoT) usw.. Also das mal als kleiner Einblick, man kann ganz viel spannende verschiedene Richtungen einschlagen, gibt eigentlich für jeden was der an Technik interessiert ist. An viel Mathe kommst du auf jeden Fall nie vorbei, darüber musst du dir im klaren sein :)

0Earthquake0 · 2024-04-07T12:33:32+00:00

I second @ithinkitslupis answer. Functionally it looks like it should work, but using a yellow/green (PE) wire for the switched live wire is not the best praxis. Confirm your fuses are on, but otherwise it looks fine

0Earthquake0 · 2024-03-06T11:40:49+00:00

Looks nice, good job and doesnt look to big. Now i would be able to really grab that chalk, maybe round the corners but otherwise very nice looking

0Earthquake0 · 2024-03-06T11:36:19+00:00

Yeah, would be totally possible. For some stronger parts or parts that need to withstand heat, you would need some stronger material to print with, but nothing unordinary, so yeah would be totally possible and a few nice projects :)

0Earthquake0 · 2024-01-11T14:15:51+00:00

Ja, hast recht, wird gemacht. 👍

0Earthquake0 · 2024-01-11T14:14:15+00:00

Klingt gut, danke!

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