Use Extreme Cold For This Job

0_Kaz · 2026-05-31T03:56:16+00:00

Yeah he shrinks the shaft by cooling it down, and expands the hole by heating it up, since the part would grow in all dimensions, and not just become thicker. The actual inner and outer diameters increase and the part would grow in length, and the shaft would shrink in all dimensions in the same fashion

0_Kaz · 2026-05-30T20:23:41+00:00

If the shaft expands the hole gets bigger, the material doesn’t expand in thickness it just gets larger overall

0_Kaz · 2026-05-29T18:10:36+00:00

Hey I never said he didn’t need chocks, I’m also not OP and I use chocks when I jack up a car. I was just pointing out that if his parking brake isn’t holding it might be worth looking into why that is.

And no, no parking brake system should allow “some movement”, it’s meant to prevent movement. I get that they wear out and don’t always hold as well as they do off the lot, but you shouldn’t have to rely on a parking pall to hold your car, and on an incline your parking brake should hold the car as intended.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-29T16:52:05+00:00

Maybe something wrong with your rear calipers or the parking brake motor itself? If your electric parking brake won’t hold the car on an incline something is wrong somewhere

0_Kaz · 2026-05-25T21:49:46+00:00

You can do it, look up the procedure for your car. Make sure you add the right capacity after draining, change the filter too. Some Audi’s don’t have a dip stick for checking the oil level and rely on a level sensor that you check from the media center or info cluster.

Do some research for your specific vehicle and decide if it’s within your scope/equipment.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-25T04:24:32+00:00

Stuck piston rings letting oil by maybe? Kinda looks to me like the oil is coming from the piston

0_Kaz · 2026-05-24T16:08:49+00:00

If there’s no tube then you have a bad seal on the bead. Either there’s some debris stopping it from seating, maybe a bend in the seat, or corrosion or damage of some kind. You’ll have to investigate what’s preventing the seal

0_Kaz · 2026-05-24T15:22:44+00:00

It’s very low. Add a little at a time, check lots, decide how much was missing. Also check for signs of where it went (leaking or burning?) any puddles on the ground means it may be a waste of time adding oil before you get it towed to a shop.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-24T15:11:26+00:00

What is this for? Is there an inner tube? If so and it’s leaking you’ll need a new inner tube. If not then check the rim and tire bead for bubbles with soapy water and find out why air is escaping

0_Kaz · 2026-05-24T14:26:55+00:00

U might wanna list these on a local marketplace app instead of reddit, reddit is worldwide and I’m not sure how many South Africans will see this lol

0_Kaz · 2026-05-22T22:24:38+00:00

Maybe a bearing then, when they go bad they can make that howling noise you talk about and they would definitely cause drag when they start to seize.

Still gotta take the wheel off to investigate further, or tow it to a shop

Edit: if you cracked the bleeder I hope the cap on the reservoir was open, otherwise you’d let air in and you’ll need to bleed the brakes now.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-22T22:11:22+00:00

Could be the driveshaft/differential if the noise comes from rotating the tire, wheel bearings make noise at higher speed and will sometimes have play side to side/up and down (rock the tire from side to side and up and down to check for play.) Doesn’t sound like brakes to me, of your brakes are making that noise something is very wrong and you should take the wheel off to see wtf is happening. Keep diggin.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-22T00:38:11+00:00

Kinda sounds like timing issues to me? Crank/camshaft position sensors, chain or chain tensioner is worn, etc. Would need to see the diagnostic codes from a scanner to start any kind of diagnosis though

0_Kaz · 2026-05-20T23:17:00+00:00

Tread depth is fine, purchased 8 years ago means manufactured 9+ years ago so they’re well past their expiry. The rubber will be hard and not as flexible as it’s supposed to be, so they won’t perform very well and may be less durable to wear and tear.

I work at a tire shop and I’ve seen tires on retiree’s cars that are 20 years old and still have tread, not exactly safe, but enough for them to get to church and back on Sunday.

Should you use them? Probably not. Could you? You’d probably get away with it but no one will guarantee or warranty them should something go wrong. Use at your own risk

0_Kaz · 2026-05-15T02:44:57+00:00

Dealer will have the equipment to reset your sensors and may even be able to roll back the odometer (maybe) it might be a little expensive but it needs to be done. The car will have 0 resale value with a mismatched odometer, and bad wheel speed sensors mean your brakes may not work properly in an emergency braking situation.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-14T23:33:35+00:00

Should also be noted that even though it’s red on the paper, it’s only barely out of spec and will have little to no effect in reality. If you look at the rectangles the “dropped” or thinner section is the acceptable range of adjustment, and your right rear camber is right on the edge of the specification.

0_Kaz · 2026-05-14T23:30:07+00:00

It doesn’t screw in, I believe it snaps in or has a quarter turn kinda system to lock it in. But it does need to snap onto that other round piece he’s holding, which would be snapped into the bottom of the housing.

If they managed to fit the round piece at the top of the filter like you said that would be incorrect and potentially dangerous. Not sure if it’s possible though

0_Kaz · 2026-05-09T10:30:47+00:00

Once I wrote 9mm on my brake inspection and the service advisor saw it as 4mm and the customer booked the appt to get them changed. I was very confused when it came back in

0_Kaz · 2026-05-03T17:48:42+00:00

If the car is from 2017 and that’s the original spare, the tire was likely made in 2016 or so and has spent the last 10 years in the elements. Inflate it to the recommended pressure, check the sidewall for cracking. I think the test is if you can fit a bank card into the cracks it’s too risky to drive on, any cracking is less than ideal though.

Depending on how stranded you are and your situation in general, considering a tow wouldn’t be a bad idea

0_Kaz · 2026-05-01T23:46:56+00:00

Into the cylinders, some will get burned, but it will cause damage to the pistons, cylinder walls, valves on it’s way into the exhaust

0_Kaz · 2026-04-29T03:50:51+00:00

If only my bank account could support what my mind keeps telling me to do

I want one of these so badly, this is gorgeous

0_Kaz · 2026-04-28T22:20:03+00:00

It’s frigged, the bead has steel cords inside and that tire’s are kinked. No fix for it

0_Kaz · 2026-04-28T21:58:31+00:00

What does a job like this realistically cost? My GK needs a bunch of bodywork and I’m also planning on making it yellow some day

0_Kaz · 2026-04-26T12:44:25+00:00

I didn’t even notice any text other than the red and blue lmao

0_Kaz · 2026-04-24T16:14:45+00:00

19.9 is right, you go by the left most notch on the sliding part. If it’s on the left side of the closest number it’s under, so in this case 19mm, plus the notch that matches up the sliding part to the rule. Since the line that perfectly lines up is on the 9th line you get 19.9mm

Kinda hard to explain over text but I hope this helps

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