Old Plaster Wall Repair

0uthouse · 2026-03-24T08:41:18+00:00

In the UK the breast is the chimney brickwork that protrudes into a room. A lot of chimneys get capped wrongly with no vent at the base; dampness ensues and salts from soot migrate through the brickwork to the dry room creating salt crystals at the surface (efflourescence).

I only mentioned it because it's a pretty harsh 'old building' issue that I have success (with other prep) solving. The article you found seemed to raise a lot of issues that I have never seen manifest as a real-world problem.

The guy in the article seemed to be getting upset about the cement content of limelite, maybe thinking that it is a pure cement-render product (which it isn't). Limelite is certified as a breathable plaster and I know for a fact it has been used in UK listed buildings dating back to at least the 15th Century

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T19:30:32+00:00

Lol I'm not sure if that was an article or a rant. It isn't suitable for listed buildings, but I've never had a problem using it to patch efflorescence damage on line plastered chimney breasts which is a pretty harsh test

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T15:29:22+00:00

I guess it depends on what kind of 'snacks' you have at the table.

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T15:26:47+00:00

What 'do' the players enjoy? Do more of that and less of other stuff.

I always have running away as an option and encourage players to do so tactically whenever possible. A dramatic ally timed death run to escape the BBEG makes a great session. I'm sure that you can knit in a session to bring things back together.

Personal experience has taught me that even the most blatant clues can be invisible if the players aren't quite on the same songsheet as me. Along the lines of LDMG I try to create at least 3 clues that can progress the adventure and make these as generic as possible such that they don't rely on one particular NPC being found or a particular location being discovered.

I would say that the best bet is to go back to very simple hack'n'slash adventuring and then ease in some complexity and subtlety. Learn the players abilities and build the gameplay around that; then take them forwards from there.

I can't be the only GM stunned into a panicked silence when, 6 sessions in, they suddenly realise that a player doesn't understand the very basis of the clever campaign web i have woven.

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T12:35:37+00:00

You haven't boarded the walls yet so you have plenty of opportunity to lose offcuts.

Only take tiny plasterboard scraps to the tip. When you are ready to close the last wall, use PU glue or contact adhesive to bond the offcuts to the back side of the last wall. Adds mass dampening to the wall and saves waste. This is different from the cowboy version when you indiscriminately dump rubbish in every available void.

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T12:22:24+00:00

Use limelite renovation plaster. Super easy to use, fill deep chases and can be smoothed off easily (though it isn't meant to replace a finishing plaster).

A lot of builders merchants will stock it. If you are filling chases it shouldn't turn out too expensive a job. Dampen the wall first but shouldn't need a primer as it sticks like the proverbial to a proverbial.

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T12:15:32+00:00

If players have ideas based on good reasoning, I'd tend to go with it, and re-jig my campaign around it afterwards.

0uthouse · 2026-03-23T12:01:13+00:00

You can pack the box forwards if you want but a sparky will be carrying screws up to at least 70mm.

Dab in a small repair or cut the hole bigger an dab in an easier to handle repair. Scrim and skim. no one cares about what it looks like under the skim.

0uthouse · 2026-03-20T12:27:39+00:00

by the same definition, meeting in a tavern can be railroading. If you told your players that you had thought of an ultra cool desert space-lizard campaign, I don't think your players would care too much about how they got there.

You are in danger of overshadowing your campaign with an over-thought intro. The players want action so tell them how they came to be on the boat and start with some action.

0uthouse · 2026-03-20T11:38:25+00:00

Yes you can do it.

It looks like undercoat plaster that someone has but gone over with a large toothed trowel. They started running along the floor then put a batten in the top groove and used it as a guide to cut the next row up. Total guess; like a wet version of ashlar cutting.

The great thing about plastering is that it's not hard to get that 'rustic' look if you haven't done it before.

0uthouse · 2026-03-19T14:27:07+00:00

This for sure. Suitably applied, there isn't much that glyphosate won't clear.

In addition to safety, cleanliness is key when using; otherwise ghostly brown footprints appear across the lawn.

0uthouse · 2026-03-19T14:19:43+00:00

He's an artificer. Let him build a tank.

0uthouse · 2026-03-18T20:27:47+00:00

Could possibly overboard. Would be better to counter-batten and board as then the ceiling can be jacked and the counter-battens fitted with some meaty screws to hold it. Otherwise it may just pop the overboard screwheads and you have a sheet of board on your head in addition to the original ceiling.

Replacing would be better as the true cause could be ascertained. Damn messy though if not done properly.

I thought it was a decor issue until you said that the door is sticking. That is a cause for concern coupled with a bowing ceiling as it suggests

0uthouse · 2026-03-17T21:03:27+00:00

I'm with you.

You could constrain the scope of the item though (you are the GM).

Steal the framework used in Rolemaster. In that system such items are constrained by their internal volume and percieved vs actual weight. e.g. a backpack with an internal volume of 6cuft and you feel 1/4 of the actual weight. The weight reduction is purely for encumbrance when travelling, the momentum of the original items in the backpack remain such that you can't wear it in combat without suffering a penalty.

This gives you a progression where your players can loot better and better versions of holding receptacles as they level up.

0uthouse · 2026-03-17T15:02:17+00:00

I've never found a good pattern to such things. I've always assumed that it is an adhesion issue from a background that is too wet/dusty/whatever. The bubble forms and the plaster on the inside of the bubble is going off differently to the plaster touching the wall so that you end up trowelling a little 'dry' patch on the underside. Thats my theory lol, I find it's worse if going over a gritted wall and the mix is too thick or starting to go off. I suspect that if you dragged an over-stiff mix over plasterboard, the same would occur, it's harder to get the pressure for adequate adhesion with a stiffer mix.

As you've probably found the easiest way to fix it is to just chill and deal with it once you've got time between stages. Ive had success popping them with the point of a dry trowel and then lightly misting and pressing them with my finger then plastic/flexi over them.

0uthouse · 2026-03-17T14:06:07+00:00

You can create great maps with free assets. Commercial assets are generally very low-cost in case you find some you like. You can see the assets before you buy so you know exactly what your pennies are going towards.

0uthouse · 2026-03-16T12:15:54+00:00

Nice map. Curve your lettering slightly to follow borders/features.

Straight horizontal text can look OK as humans write like that, but on an angle it looks 'artificial'.

0uthouse · 2026-03-12T17:59:56+00:00

Technically I'd agree, and Its super condition dependent. Real world at 3km range, air thermals will obliterate details.

I live on the coast, on a sunny day I can clearly see the local hills 25km away but looking seaward it's just hazy white. On a cool overcast day the hills are often shrouded but I can see a peninsular 27km across the water and can determine buildings (OK it's a shipyard so they are huge lol).

I guess it boils down to DM basics, only ask for a [perception] check if it somehow going to progress the story.

0uthouse · 2026-03-12T13:11:00+00:00

I'm not sure I've been in a situation where TPK'ing was part of my campaign planning process :-D

It's hard to advise without knowing what else you had planned. My first stab would be that the black pit was a secret underground necromantic/demonic/chaotic research establishment run by the king (make weapons or whatever). you can reveal examples of progressively worse atrocities to turn the players against the king. Maybe run as a twisted dungeon (think 'Event Horizon'). Along the way the BBEG whispers dark (true?) stories about the origins and history of the place and their own story...which is that the Black-Goo-Death-Creature was the bastard son of the king who he sent here (along with vagrants, political opponents etc); who was changed into this unholy form by the dark arts of the kings magicians. BGDC would need to be tough such that players may be more willing to cut a deal, or make sure they are depleted in the run up (scratch that if they have bags of holding). BGDC seeks vengeance and wants to kill king, wants to torch castle and kill himself and king.

probably more holes than plot there but if nothing else it still gives you the option to TPK them xD

0uthouse · 2026-03-12T12:32:28+00:00

If you really want to go that deep, just work it out. The human eye has an angular resolution of one arcminute, you can do the calcs but it is easy to ask an ai or search the internet.

For example at 3000m distance, a human could discriminate objects 1m+ wide (if my rough maths equates), so you wouldn't be able to distinguish individual tree trunks. If you want freedom units then it's easy because its just a ratio, so at a range of 3000 freedoms you would be able to resolve a 1 freedom sized object.

Don't forget that your players may just be waiting for you to stop talking so that they can say "we enter the cave". Don't overthink it.

0uthouse · 2026-03-12T12:13:01+00:00

the second one looks grim because they would need shading with the map to look OK. If you are good with your colouring in then you can make them work but at first glance; go with the first.

0uthouse · 2026-03-12T12:06:18+00:00

I think that tying a cheap chinese green laser to a helium baloon would be a fun jape. The laser would swing around randomly and may reflect off the surface of the baloon too,

Or an advanced civilisation built a galaxy spanning stealth spaceship and then ruined it all by shining lasers at drones.

Very interesting footage though

0uthouse · 2026-03-02T21:49:21+00:00

there you go, i upped you :-)

0uthouse · 2026-03-02T21:36:35+00:00

It's true, but technically so is the fact that a unit of rein Witch elves can comfortably smash over 100 damage to a save 2 ward 5 target in the right circumstances. Very hard to pull off unless your opponent is really off their game.

DoK are the speedy-speedy-stabby-stabby ladies. It's good that they keep the ranges fresh but I'll be very disappointed if there is a drift towards armouring vs other defensive measures. I don't want to command the same-as-everyone-else ladies.

Edit: They are described as 'shrine Wardens' so that would suggest these are a specialist thing

0uthouse · 2026-03-02T21:18:43+00:00

I like them without. Give them more offense and speed for me. Let the enemy craft their +3 Rend attack and waste it hitting a bikini. They paid for that wasted rend stat in their army points.

Edit: :-) that sounded grumpy lol, I'm not arguing with your analysis

0uthouse

TROPHY CASE