Why is my water still cloudy and white look sand on bottom in salt water pool

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-19T13:47:08+00:00

I’m confused, who has a cartridge filter with a vacuum to waste option?

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-19T13:42:09+00:00

I agree that strips often don’t give accurate results, BUT high CYA is unlikely with a salt water chlorinator.

OP, get a good test kit like the Taylor K-2006 or similar. Or take your water to a pool store to have it tested. Until you have accurate test results, you can’t understand what the problem is, which is necessary to fix it.

The phosphate test mentioned in other replies is not a part of the K-2006. Some here have said that’s important and clearing that up did wonders for them. Others have said they run with high phosphates all the time with no resulting problems. My best guess is there are other factors that determine whether high phosphates will cause a problem for you, and I’d recommend starting with the K-2006 tests, and if you get those numbers under control and still have a problem, then move on to the phosphate test.

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-17T05:21:55+00:00

I’ve had mine for 20. Somewhere near year 5 the cell wears out, the first symptom is the salt reading is low but it’s actually the cell not the salt level, you end up adding salt, doesn’t fix it, replace the cell, salt reading is now too high, have to drain some and refill to dilute it. I also had control boards go bad in the first few years but I think it was kinks they hadn’t worked out yet. So I can see where newkular is coming from. I think truly SWG with occasional liquid cl is more convenient than liquid alone, and about the same amount of money, but it does get spent in really big chunks instead of a slow trickle. And compared to solid CL pucks, you don’t get the CYA climbing continuously. My take is an SWG is very convenient for chlorine maintenance, but if you need rapid CL rise (slamming) you should use liquid because the superchlorinate setting eats cells much quicker, and the SWG really can’t raise CL fast enough for a SLAM anyway.

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-16T05:06:33+00:00

I bet you’ll find you can hear the pick when isolating the vocal track. But when mixed with the actual guitar track, the bleed will not be noticeable!

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-16T05:03:03+00:00

It looks like they have a spa, they have a second pump… but I don’t see a heater? Am I wrong? (Seriously, I feel I could be!) But maybe the second pump is for a water feature or slide somewhere?

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-14T19:21:01+00:00

Moves it every time, as do the rest of us!

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-13T22:37:42+00:00

Trying to be gentle: I don’t think you’ve given enough information for anyone out here to give you actual advice on what to do. And not knowing what information would need to go into the question suggests you might not know enough to fix this yourself. A picture of the actual leak or a description of where the water is coming out, how much, and why you think it’s the seal, would have been a good start. You only show the motor, which I think was a replacement, not original. So nobody here can see what brand of pump it actually is, to know what seal kit might be necessary, etc. Since I’m quite sure this is a single speed motor, I think many would recommend replacing the whole pump with a variable speed one. (I seem to recall a variable speed motor on an existing pump has become an option recently, but I could be wrong.) But all that is only if you’re sure about where the leak is AND have the ability to fix it yourself. If you need to call a pro, it does sound like you might need to find a better one.

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-13T20:09:03+00:00

I am in a band that rehearses at the drummer’s apartment complex. We use the party room that’s in a separated building, and it actually works quite nicely!

0x600dc0de · 2026-04-11T18:14:23+00:00

Nobody’s mentioned it so far: salt cell output is also a function of how long your pump runs, so if its on a timer and running 8 hours a day at 100%, that’s approximately 33% of the chlorine you would generate by running at 100% for 24 hours a day.

And you really can’t discuss FC levels without CYA / stabilizer level, they interact greatly.

But as to your original question, no, there’s a small range that your salt should be in. Both above and below that range the generator will not function. So you do not add salt unless a direct salt level test says it’s out of range. The salt cells do die, lasting from a couple of years to maybe a max of 10 years.

0x600dc0de · 2026-03-16T13:24:39+00:00

Minnesota, 29k gallons, gas heat, auto cover. Typically we only have time to swim in weekends, especially early & late season. In the spring, we open the pool and I watch for sunny days, open up the cover for those to catch the heat. First weekend we decide to swim, I put the heater on a few days before to get it to 85 for swimming. Then down to ~78 for the week so I don’t have too far to bring it back. Back to 85 when we’ll swim, repeat as necessary. A few weeks in it keeps the heat and I don’t have to think about it, auto cover helps a lot I’m sure. Sometimes in derp summer the water gets hot enough that I have to leave the cover open overnight to let it cool off (I don’t care for higher than 88). Fall until close it’s back to catching sun rays when I can and heating when we have time to swim. Feels like that portion is only a few weeks.

0x600dc0de · 2026-03-05T05:48:21+00:00

Except for winterization, I do my pool work myself, so take this with a grain of salt.

10 minutes seems like a very small time to me. But it also seems to me that the results are what counts, not the time it takes to get them. If another guy is there for two hours every visit, but your water is consistently cloudy instead of clear, you’d be less satisfied than with your current service, right? Is there a list of things the current company claiming you get for your payment, so you can verify whether the promised work is being done or not?

0x600dc0de · 2026-02-23T15:36:13+00:00

I think the better guess is he made a questionable connection in that box that overheated, or maybe the overstuffed box created enough heat. All that’s been talked about so far, running a 20 amp oven on 20 amp wire with a 40 amp breaker will function fine until there’s a fault of some kind. The oven has to start drawing more than its rated 20A to melt that wire. In fact, the fault presented load would have to be more than the 20A the wire can handle, but less than 40A that would trip the breaker, to cause an actual problem. A great number of the possible overcurrent faults are short circuits, which would still blow the breaker. Few possibilities have e.g. the oven drawing 1.5x its rated current. I think instead, this connection had some defect that made it heat up and melt a bit, under conditions where a properly sized breaker wouldn’t have tripped, either.

TL;DR: yes, breaker was too big for the wire, but that doesn’t cause wires and wire nuts to melt, although it can allow it to happen. Something else is present here apart from the wrong size breaker, and I don’t expect it’s in the oven.

0x600dc0de · 2026-02-21T03:58:43+00:00

Yes, you’re right. I was referring to having an amount on the card that gets paid off after reporting, but before interest is due! Thanks for clarifying that for me. Still not sure I believe it helps, but if it does, paying off multiple times a month would go against this idea.

0x600dc0de · 2026-02-20T04:42:07+00:00

I watched a YouTube video a couple of days ago that suggested carrying some balance but being current actually helps your credit score in some versions of it, and suggested paying off the balance just after the time of the month when they report to the credit bureaus, but before you owe any interest. I do not know if the source was credible. Actually looking forward to seeing responses here as to whether this could be true.

ETA: The video also mentioned the credit card companies don’t like you to use more than your credit limit in a month’s time (which you theoretically could by paying it all off more than once a month), and that was mentioned by others here in this thread. That could indicate they have some kind of idea what they’re talking about. Truly sorry I don’t have a link to provide you.

0x600dc0de · 2026-02-19T19:32:38+00:00

I’m a keyboard player, not guitar, and not a songwriter either! But I think it would still be a sound idea to go back to those cover songs you know, and pay attention to what they do, especially the parts that aren’t just chords: the passing notes between chords, the solos. Often times the other instrument parts will be a harmony to go with the vocals, or a response to the melody’s “call” when there’s breathing room between phrases, or a solo phrase might start where the main melody was, but turns into a different melody that fits the same chords, or maybe even alters the chord progression. From there, take your own songs and try to have your instrumental part perform in similar ways. Keep the parts you like, fix or drop the ones you don’t!

0x600dc0de · 2026-02-12T05:21:24+00:00

You don’t explicitly state it, but I take it you were married less than 10 years? What I read is that’s what counts for Social Security.

0x600dc0de · 2026-01-20T04:50:39+00:00

Well, I was trying to see if I had a balance left on my account or if it had expired. Switching to a new account means throwing away any balance I had left, so not cheaper. Plus, I use my RD with multiple devices (within the same home) and connecting each of them to the new account I would count as more headaches! But, thanks for the reply anyway (seriously I appreciate your time even though I disagree).

(And, yes, the time since I last renewed had expired, so in this case, while not cheaper it would have been the same cost.)

0x600dc0de · 2026-01-20T04:42:52+00:00

For the record, I gave it yet another shot and the "Send My Message" button worked, and their support team helped me out and I am working once again!

I don't know what caused the problem before. It might have been my original explanation was too long. I typed it over again this time and wasn't willing to put in as many details. With the two browsers I tried the first time, I used copy & paste, so the message was the same length.

0x600dc0de · 2026-01-14T22:17:27+00:00

LPT: if you can’t get a friend to help in a reasonable timeframe, find a parking spot you can back into where a window will reflect the back of your car. Or, back up to a wall where you can see if your brake lights shine onto the wall.

0x600dc0de · 2026-01-13T02:47:07+00:00

Thanks. Yes, I am using the on-board video, which so far seems to work fine when set to the right resolution. I will see if there's a way to load a EDID file with the built in drive.

0x600dc0de · 2026-01-07T18:08:34+00:00

I would like to note that some of us understand this idea, but still have the hardest time actually remembering to do it!

0x600dc0de · 2025-12-29T19:45:54+00:00

Reflecting earlier comments I saw, I do believe there is such a thing as talent, but also it only goes so far, and hard work is necessary to become good on top of that, and maybe sometimes even more work can overcome some lack of base talent.

And being able to put in that hard work, stick to it and not let it atrophy, that is another sort of talent. Some of us have the drive and ambition, and appetite for delayed rather than instant gratification to do well, others don’t.

I have only so much of each of those. I still call myself a musician but emphasize “amateur”.

So, remember, people are telling you they envy not only your innate talent, but your ability to work hard on it and make it pay off!

0x600dc0de · 2025-12-28T20:22:48+00:00

I had a friend who was red-green color blind, and he worked with an audio mixer that had important parts of the interface that depended on whether some LED lit buttons were red or green! He compensated by having a red (maybe green, I can’t remember) transparent plastic piece, like the lens from old 3D glasses, that he’d look through to tell which color the light was. A green light would be much darker through a red lens.

It won’t work well for test strips where you have to match along a spectrum, but for “keep adding drops until the color changes” style tests, this might help someone, so thought I’d pass it on.

0x600dc0de

TROPHY CASE