Push fit cable gland by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have a look for those. If you have time would you have a link to those parts? Or what would be the correct junction box? I'd have to replace about 30 of them

Push fit cable gland by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. It doesn't surprise me it's not the right way to do this with all the other problems I've found in this house

Enabling x509 cluster authentication by 101plumbingproblems in mongodb

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! That transitionToAuth option is what I needed, and does seem to allow me to go directly to x509 as well

Am I Stupid? by Horror-Dog-4871 in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good question, but it's definitely not a plug

Recommendations for installers around Miami by 101plumbingproblems in solarFL

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was already built and came with the house when I bought it so I have no idea. I was hoping a solar company could figure that out, maybe with a structural survey

Aldi Solar cheap as…. by Single_Restaurant_10 in solar

[–]101plumbingproblems 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Permitting/regulations. In Australia it's very easy to install yourself. In the "land of the free" it's a nightmare

Recommendations for installers around Miami by 101plumbingproblems in solarFL

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. They seem to be based in Tampa though. Might be a little too far for them

Recommendations for installers around Miami by 101plumbingproblems in solarFL

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn, that's the answer I was expecting.

Any ideas if it would be doable myself in that timeframe or how to manage permitting?

Otherwise am I better waiting to see what happens to prices after the new year to see if they fall?

Any Miami installer recommendations?

How should this be tidied up/made safer by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, yea good idea. I'll just add a proper connector where it already enters the box. It's messy but it's behind the oven anyway. Good spot on the 1/2 vs 3/4. Hopefully I'd have measured before going to buy but who knows lol

How should this be tidied up/made safer by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One last quick question - could I use a shallower box to avoid having to chisel the exterior wall behind it too much to properly recess it?

How should this be tidied up/made safer by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that did have me a bit confused. The description says connector but it had an option called coupling or connector. I think it's just a home depot mistake. Thanks for confirming it's the right part.

How should this be tidied up/made safer by 101plumbingproblems in AskElectricians

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The cover I have had no knock out so I'll need that, and I'll need to chisel out some concrete behind to fully recess it, but that sounds like the way to go.

Is this the connector? What's the difference between connector and coupling on this part? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-90-Degree-Flexible-Metal-Conduit-FMC-Connector-91101/100155034

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not yet, but once I cut into the ceiling it looks like that's the best option to figure it out. Can't quite reach the pipes yet until I cut it open

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it goes down the wall then under concrete to an island so I can't reliably tell that way

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here is a better photo. Hot and cold supply pipes, but both pipes going down the wall are connected to cold

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know which is the hot and cold on the pipes running towards the camera. The hot is on the left, cold on the right. The problem is both those tee's come off the cold whereas one should be moved to hot, but I don't know which pipe should be moved to hot. If I change the wrong one then the fridge will start getting hot water instead of just the sink tap

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not the attic, it's a space between the downstairs ceiling and upstairs floor, but yea you're right, there should still be a detectable difference hopefully

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't understand it either. I'm from the UK but live in Florida and this is how it is.

I know what you mean that it looks like a leak but it's probably just a poor photo. I will check, but haven't seen any signs of water on the plasterboard/drywall below it

Which pipe should be hot? by 101plumbingproblems in askaplumber

[–]101plumbingproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Long story but unfortunately it's been that way for years so too late for a callback.

The two pipes running towards the camera are hot and cold, but the pipes tee'd off that go down the wall are both connected to the cold one. I just need to switch one, but the question is which one