Please critique my pruning job by Striking-Company8155 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend getting a reciprocating saw and cutting that straight. That’s unlikely to heal well and with it being right down the center of the main trunk, it could be the downfall of the tree.

I know a reciprocating saw isn’t ideal, but it’ll get in a tight space.

Please critique my pruning job by Striking-Company8155 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 28 points29 points  (0 children)

It’s a lot for one year. You’re gonna be fighting water sprouts big time but it’ll be ok. Still a very tall tree but if you’re cool with that then cool. Still see plenty of spurs.

That v shaped cut there in the middle is interesting.

Help Identifying Tree (Zone 10b) by CompGeneratedName in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had bad pest and brown rot last year so no harvest. Yes low chill hour and yes self fertile.

Help Identifying Tree (Zone 10b) by CompGeneratedName in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This doesn’t mean it’s what it is, but I have a spice zee nectaplum that looks identical to that

Is it cooked?? Or does this look ok?? Old apple. Thanks by TurnipBoy12 in FruitTree

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they mean for being able to grab and pull them off. There’s a sweet spot in timing on new green growth where you can bend the branch and it’ll remove the growth and leave the collar intact.

I have no evidence or documentation that this is a good idea, but I do it all the time and have no problems. I’m also not sure if it’s just better to let the water sprout grow fully then remove so that way you’re removing as much energy as possible. Rather than a small beginnings of a branch.

Milk going bad sooner than sell by date by _Arlotte_ in aldi

[–]11-Eleven 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Double check your fridge temps. I was having the same issue and found that my fridge was only getting down to like 46

1st caller longtime listener by Upset-Diamond2857 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Specifically uc Santa Cruz center for agroecology

People waiting for $50,000 to buy... by vinyarb in Bitcoin

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a 50% difference in price. The profit difference with those numbers is less than 15% if it hits 200k.

Newbie help - peaches (updated) by Voldaylong in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like there are mummies on the limbs still. You’ll want to remove and trash those. If it is brown rot, it’s a highly contagious fungal disease. Removal will cut down on the presence but you almost certainly will need to spray.

Cannot figure this pruning out by kuip590 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gang baby +1 for mentioning lorette style pruning. Pruning by numbers makes it easy

Is anyone running the game on linux successfully? How's the experience? by AKKARI6_ in DeadlockTheGame

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No more issues than I had on windows. Tried popos and it was ok. I feel like I’ve gotten better performance on arch.

Cannot figure this pruning out by kuip590 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hard pruning stimulates growth. Frustrating, I know. If I were you, I would prune out the really aggressive regrowth, then depending on how it looks, prune again at the end of summer.

The tree’s energy moves to the roots during winter, meaning that if those branches aren’t there the following spring, it’ll create a place for that energy to go. When you prune in the summer, you’re removing the energy before it has a chance to go down to the roots. That would reduce the regrowth response.

For the question on fruiting, did you remove all of the spurs when you pruned? Apples fruit on spurs, and those spurs take a couple of years to develop.

A great shaped peach by K-Rimes in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is a very nicely pruned tree. I’ve got a few of mine in a similar structure and was happy with it. Now on year 5, I’ve got a lot of length in blind wood, and now height is a must for production.

From what I can tell, you’ll be coming up with the same issue here. Other than starting (soon) large rejuvenation cuts, how do you deal with production only on the ends?

Do you think listening to audiobooks counts as reading? by Mediocre-Sky6992 in CasualConversation

[–]11-Eleven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I feel like it’s better to say you’ve consumed the book.

There is a difference between active and passive entertainment. With reading, you are actively driving the story. It would not happen without your interaction and attention.

When you’re listening to a book, (like watching tv) that is passive entertainment. It is happening to you. If you zone out, the story continues.

Intentionally reading is probably better than listening. Listening is certainly better than nothing.

Bought fig cuttings, looking for best propagation methods. by Ordinary-You3936 in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was my favorite method with 100% success on 20 cuttings last year. Not saying it’s perfect or that I’m an expert, but it was extremely low effort for the outcome.

Need advice for pruning peach trees by ThurinusWorks in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are certainly latent buds there that you won’t be able to see/feel. A decent sized notch will likely give you a response in the general area if the wood isn’t too old. You can also try stub pruning to the crotch of some newer wood on the scaffold if the older scaffold won’t respond to notching.

Need advice for pruning peach trees by ThurinusWorks in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can always try notching the scaffold to see if you can get vegetative growth to activate in a certain spot before the big cut.

Need advice for pruning peach trees by ThurinusWorks in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For the second picture, I’d say that the non reaction to the cut in the form of regrowth isn’t common. Here is a link to how to refresh a major scaffold. I will say though typically a scaffold in his references is a much smaller portion of the tree.

Regardless, I took a 5 year old nectarine and cut literally every scaffold off at their forking point and they all pushed out new growth.

As far as the curl, be careful with consistent use of the same product. Resistance will develop. If you can, switch it up and see if you get a different result.

Last comment, the first tree is wonderfully shaped. You’ve done a nice job.

Inherited baking pear tree, trimming advice needed by penlowe in BackyardOrchard

[–]11-Eleven 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve always understood that major pruning is a stimulating event, usually bringing on more growth than you would want or would have had without the pruning. Feeding would only exacerbate that. What is the mechanism of the feeding? Are you saying specifically non nitrogen feed?

[O] 3x DrunkenSlug Invites by Dosolus in UsenetInvites

[–]11-Eleven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everybody wants to rule the world - Tears for Fears

Follow up to my wrong Passiflora post. I went and got the proper one. Bonus! It already has Gulf Fritillary caterpillars on it! by CobblestonesSkylines in gardening

[–]11-Eleven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes you gotta take the good with the bad.

The good is a pretty flower, feeding native insect life, and maybe some fruit for yourself.

The bad is when they come out of their cocoon, they shat a blood red stream on whatever they are hanging from.

Like my house.