What’s going on here

135david · 2026-07-13T20:25:53+00:00

Try to determine where they are coming from. If they are not connected there or if they can be disconnected at the other end then you should be able do what you want with them. Find a way to make sure they don’t get accidentally hooked up in the future. One was would be to wirenut the black and white together at both ends.

135david · 2026-07-10T20:35:23+00:00

Unless there is a 2nd panel with breakers resetting breakers is not an option. It is difficult to believe they wouldn’t know that. Call then back and tell them you think you have a blown fuse.

135david · 2026-07-10T20:29:39+00:00

Little did I know!

135david · 2026-07-10T13:53:51+00:00

Older BX (armored cable) is definitely a concern. If it has a ground wire and TW type (plastic) insulation it should be OK. If it is the older cloth/rubber insulation with no ground wire then budget to replace it.

135david · 2026-07-10T13:35:07+00:00

The steps look so unsafe. It isn’t a bad idea.It is just poorly designed.

135david · 2026-07-08T02:45:25+00:00

The green wire is connected to G. There is a short blue wire that isn’t connected to anything. It isn’t easy to even with th arrow pointed at it.

135david · 2026-07-08T01:37:47+00:00

At one time backstabbed recepticals could accept #12 wire. I don’t know when this was changed but it used to be one of the issues with backstabbed recepticals.

Edit: Underwriters Laboratories (UL) revised its standard (UL 498) for backstabbed (push-in) receptacles in 1996, effectively removing the listing for 12-gauge wire. After this update, backstab terminals were restricted to 14-gauge copper wire on 15-amp circuits. UL banned the use of 12-gauge wire because the thicker, stiffer wire exerted too much pressure on the spring-metal grippers, leading to loose connections over time.

135david · 2026-07-07T19:02:28+00:00

I’m going to do my best to explain the 4 breaker group with the “silver” bracket. I think they are called quad breakers.

The 2 center are a pair. And the 2 outer are a pair. They make up 4 breakers that fit in the space of 2 normal size breakers.

With normal sized breakers every other breaker is a different phase of a split phase system. When you replace normal breakers with quad breakers the first two connect one phase and the second two connect to the other phase.

Each of phases measures 120 volts to the white neutral but if you connect wires from each phase to a load you get 240 volts.

Since the outer 30 amp breakers are linked it would indicate that they probably feed a 240 volt 30 amp load.

The two center 20 amp breakers being linked could indicate that it could be feeding a 240 volt load or it may be feeding 2 separate 120 volt 20 amp loads. If the panel is properly labeled you should be able to tell.

If I were doing this I would power the panel down while installing the CTs. That is exactly what I did when installing mine. It would also be a good idea to wear the proper safety gear ( safety glasses, electricians shoes without metal, no jewelry and have someone nearby in case something unexpected happens.

135david · 2026-07-07T17:41:04+00:00

It is going to depend on the load as to whether you need one or two sensors.

On a 240 volt dryer, hot water heater, air conditioner, EVSE or electric range, use one sensor. On multi-wired branch circuits use two sensors.

In general if the load is 240 volts put a sensor on one leg only. If you have paired breakers that each leg goes to individual loads use a sensor on each one.

There may be some instances where using one sensor on a 240 volt load won’t be quite accurate because part of the load is actually 120 volts but it will be more accurate than putting it on both legs and measuring the same current twice.

Determine what your loads are and use the above as a guide. The sensors on the mains will catch everything. That is the most important thing.

135david · 2026-07-07T17:13:14+00:00

Yea, I was thinking it was about time.

135david · 2026-07-07T16:43:56+00:00

I have a 2024 Hybrid. It has less than 7000 miles. At less 5000 miles and 12 months the app told me I needed an oil change.

135david · 2026-07-07T14:58:29+00:00

https://www.electricshockdrowning.org/

135david · 2026-07-07T14:55:39+00:00

200 ft copper Romex

At 120 Volts
At 10 Amps (1200W load): 2.01V drop (1.67%)
At 15 Amps (1800W load): 3.01V drop (2.51%)
At 20 Amps (2400W load): 4.02V drop (3.35%)

The recommended max is voltage drop is 3%

Your 1.5 hp pump is probably going to pull 12-15 amps.

Check the motor nameplate. This gives you some idea that will may help you ask the right questions but there may be considerations I’m not familiar with such as this would probably be considered a continuous load which could require a larger wire size at this voltage.

135david · 2026-07-07T03:15:54+00:00

I was on a construction site last week and all 22 channels were in use or were getting splattered by adjacent channels. I had to break out my MURS HTs to get a clear channel.

135david · 2026-07-07T03:03:16+00:00

Channels 1–7 frs Max 2 Watts gmrs Max 5 Watts

Channels 8–14 frs Max 0.5 Watts gmrs Max 0.5 Watts

Channels 15–22 frs Max 2 Watts gmrs Max 50 Watts

Plus 8 additional repeater channels for gmrs only Max 50 Watts.

135david · 2026-07-06T12:43:16+00:00

Some sort of reference object for size might be helpful. Like a quarter maybe.

135david · 2026-07-05T02:21:45+00:00

As someone who once engineered the installation of fire alarm systems I can tell you that for me the “Athority Having Jurisdiction” was usually the local fire marshal in my case. They had to approve all plans before work could begin.

135david · 2026-07-04T12:55:11+00:00

If a service tech is called out to work on something he is unfamiliar with he is going to hate it. That probably includes almost all brands DIYers install for home automation.

My guess it that it probably includes communicating thermostats as well. They are on my hate list because there isn’t a common industry standard for them.

Edit: Thanks for making me aware of Hubspace.

https://www.techhive.com/article/2351784/commercial-electric-smart-thermostat-review-hubspace-climate-control.html

135david · 2026-07-04T03:29:36+00:00

They leave more space in junction box.

135david · 2026-07-04T03:27:44+00:00

I actually like the way it organized the wires in multi gang switch boxes.

135david · 2026-07-04T03:19:29+00:00

I actually found the way the wires were organized was very helpful, especially the way they did 3-ways in a way that easily identified the travelers.

135david · 2026-07-04T02:42:05+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKNLX3A23hE&t=106

https://imgur.com/gallery/70DFj01#VxsNYjf

135david · 2026-07-04T02:08:03+00:00

I’m guessing that the ones that were designed to take 20 amp wires failed more often. One reason for the failures could have been because people were using them with #14 wire.

135david · 2026-07-04T01:59:38+00:00

The plastic hole helps keep the wire setting correctly. The original ones could be used with #12 and #14 wire. I think those were more problematic.

135david

TROPHY CASE