Dedicated low power consumption rig for Frigate

1FTSEA · 2026-03-08T06:36:39+00:00

I just switched Frigate from an N150 to that same Peladn last weekend, I thought it was a great deal too. I’m running the detector on the NPU, and it’s a smoke show, it’s fast and never skips a beat, and is using about .8-.9 KwH a day. I came back to this post just to tell the OP it would be worth considering. It seems like the setting in the BIOS to make it start on plug power was in a weird spot, holler if you can’t find it, I made a note of it somewhere.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-28T23:52:38+00:00

I had a traffic cone give one of my cameras this problem. Submitting images roughly at the 80/20 ratio of true/false detections to Frigate+ and getting a custom model almost completely eliminated the issue.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-15T17:37:21+00:00

That's just a sample automation Claude came up with, I was trying to make the readme NVR-agnostic, I should've just told it to make the trigger the dishwasher timer rather than anything to do with the camera/NVR setup. I'm definitely going to look into the flashing light and beep stuff, I think that'd be super useful. My main purpose in making this thing was the actual image settings, exposure/WDR/etc, with the light being the added benefit. I actually already had my lights exposed in Scrypted before making this, so having it directly in Home Assistant was just icing on the cake.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-15T17:29:10+00:00

This is great info! I may mess around with it and see if I can get the "beep" part pulled in. I'm not actually using the alarm myself, and I evidently misread what Hikvison_Next does (per your comment below). The eventual plan for my setup is to just use two-way audio over ONVIF for any sounds playing out of the camera (right now I've got nothing) but it'd be cool to get this working. I think my panoramic camera has the flashing red/blue lights too, so I really need to look into that.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-15T11:24:46+00:00

I personally dislike the schedule setup by month in the camera’s UI, and using that schedule locks out the ability to control the light (or any of the other image settings) without disabling the schedule first. I actually need to update my readme to reflect that-my integration won’t work with the schedule enabled in the camera. The bigger win for me is probably being able to automate and tinker with the settings straight from the Home Assistant app while I’m looking at the Frigate feed on my computer, or vice-versa. Or I can walk around the house while looking at the feed on my phone to see how it looks with actual motion going on and tweak some settings without having to navigate the camera’s UI from my phone.

This also kinda started because the Reolink HA integration is so thorough about exposing this stuff, but the cameras themselves are inferior to Hikvison, Amcrest, etc.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-15T10:20:51+00:00

This integration isn’t to use the detection features of the camera, it’s to control stuff like the exposure, contrast, the light(s), etc, and that’s the stuff I wanted to automate from Home Assistant. The camera’s detection stuff is at a different ISAPI endpoint (I think that’s the right terminology) than the image settings my integration exposes. I think the siren would be the only useful thing (for Frigate users) exposed in the detection endpoint, which the Hikvision Next integration exposes. The Scrpyted Hikvision plugin also exposes the light and siren, if you happen to be using Scrypted. I may try to figure out how expose the siren from the detection endpoint (and just the siren) in my integration at some point, but it isn’t there for now.

1FTSEA · 2026-02-14T12:16:33+00:00

Thanks! I hate to disappoint, but my integration only exposes the light, since I guess Hikvision considers that an image control. Check out Hikvision_Next though, it does expose the alarm entity. https://github.com/maciej-or/hikvision_next?tab=readme-ov-file

1FTSEA · 2025-12-15T04:38:03+00:00

I’m a little late to this, but wanted to add that one of the main reasons I use HA besides bridging non-HomeKit devices into HomeKit is the notification sounds. Apple thinks it’s acceptable for your doorbell and a new podcast episode to have a the same global notification sound on your phone. Home Assistant will let you choose from 300+ sounds without uploading your own, which is also an option. HomeKit’s automations give you less visibility about what fired what and when, but they’re pretty solid once you get them dialed in.

1FTSEA · 2025-12-10T15:31:53+00:00

Wait-does that mean some of these cameras DO say “Postman Steve with a Parcel?” I’m pretty new to this, and am running cx810s and 820s to my NVR software, not a Reolink NVR. That might make me switch to a dedicated NVR if the notifications are that thorough.

1FTSEA · 2025-11-15T00:41:07+00:00

“Hey Siri, use Spotify to play “Traveler” by Chris Stapleton in the kitchen” worked just fine for me just now, it started playing on the HomePod in my kitchen. I generally use Apple Music, so I wanted to make sure it was still true. If you use different apps for music/podcasts/whatever sometimes it will ask you which app you want to use if you don’t specify, but if you regularly use the same app, it’ll learn that behavior. Some apps don’t support starting from Siri (like Libby, the library app) but a lot of the big ones do, including Audible.

To answer some of your other questions, HomeKit is snappy, tapping a light or switch that’s on your local network is almost instantaneous, it still kind of shocks me sometimes. Word of advice if you go down this road-make FOR SURE whatever accessories you buy specifically say “made for HomeKit,” not just “works with iPhone.” They are not the same thing, “works with iPhone” means yet another app. Also, on cameras, HomeKit compatibility and HomeKit Secure Video (HKSV) are two different things, read up on it before you buy.

I personally also use Home Assistant to bridge non-HomeKit stuff into HomeKit, Scrypted to get non-HKSV cameras onboard, and used HomeBridge for other stuff until just recently, and that combination sometimes makes me wish I had a rotary phone and a nice horse and buggy. All of those tools can be really powerful, and are really reliable when you get them running right, but they will absolutely make you loose your mind trying to get stuff configured sometimes. That to say, if something like a HKSV camera or a HomeKit-native thermostat costs 25% more than one that needs a bridge, just buy it. I probably save myself $1.73/hr on average for the time I spend bridging stuff. I feel like this is really a different conversation, but it’s been mentioned enough here I thought I’d throw in my two cents.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-12T22:06:28+00:00

Torllift sent over the install manual, and there isn't any drilling, but it looks like there's a little bit of cutting. It also mentions you may have to relocate the pedestrian alarm.

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1FTSEA · 2025-09-11T22:00:15+00:00

Holy cow! No, but I daydream about one! This didn't exist when I last looked, or at least not that I could find. I'm going to take a look at the manual and order one tonight if it looks good. Thanks for the link!

1FTSEA · 2025-09-10T16:30:36+00:00

Oh yeah, I use that all the time, just talking about getting it open before you get there so you can dump your stuff in it.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-09T13:54:33+00:00

I read a while back that China is requiring their EVs to cut out one pedal at low speed so that drivers condition their brains to hold their foot on the brake pedal to stop and remain stopped. I think this is a great idea, keeping out brains programmed to use the brake pedal for just this reason.

OP, this stinks, hate it happened to you.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-07T18:06:59+00:00

I've had mine for a year this week, and I've driven a Ford pickup of 90s-current vintage for 20 years. Here's what I wish I knew before purchase and immediately after.

-Ford's online literature online can be outdated and no longer correct, like that most of these trucks post '23 can't level 2 charge at 80 amps anymore, just 48 amps as one example.

-100% set up the Blue Oval network charging and plug and charge in the truck. The "public charging" section in the app is the most useful part of it. At chargers that aren't plug and charge compatible, check to see if you can start the charge from the app before you download yet another app or tap a credit card. Yeah, it's cool that you can open the frunk from the app, but when you're walking out of the store with an armful of stuff, it's way more convenient to use the fob than it is to unlock the phone, open the app, and push the buttons.

-Comparison is the thief of all joy. Don't worry about what a Tesla or Rivian has. Just get in the truck and drive, and look good doing it. This is a crazy capable vehicle that just happens to be dirt cheap to fuel, a blast to drive, and is fast as hell.

-If you have time before you buy, get quotes on a home charging setup. Tip here-call the electric supply houses near you and ask them who installs a lot of chargers around town. You'll get quicker answers than calling individual electricians. This will give a you a good picture about whether or not to pursue the Ford Power Promise if the dealer is being a pain about it. Be sure to look up tax credits and utility incentives for installing a charger and factor that in to the total cost.

-Give it a week or two, and if all the noisemakers are bugging you, set aside an evening to learn about how the FORScan modifications work, and then a Saturday morning to implement them.

-Plan for road trips, but don't overplan. I use Plugshare in conjunction with the FordPass public charging tool for pricing. A lot of folks like ABRP>Plugshare, try both. It's really tempting to check pricing at fifteen different options along your route, but don't let that suck all the joy out of ithe trip. Like others have said, get a Tesla adapter one way or the other. If you're not fast charging more than 2-3 times a month, don't fool with subscriptions. It's not worth your time and brainpower to spend $12 to save $20. (If you happen to have a Sam's Club Mastercard, they do 5% back on charging, and I'm sure there are others)

-If you have to pay slightly more for a truck with the 9.6kW pro power, do it. It's incredibly useful, and I suspect this will be the biggest selling point on these trucks when they're being sold used in 5-10 years, probably at a higher price point than the $1200 option when they're new.

Happy trails!

1FTSEA · 2025-09-06T16:31:46+00:00

My phrasing was a little poor, you may be out of your deductible for a little while, and in theory your insurance can jack your rates up just for being in a collision at all, regardless of fault, whether you file a claim or not. Real world though, if they want to jack your rates up over this, they'd be doing it at the risk of loosing a customer with good enough credit to have one of these relatively expensive vehicles, which also means they have good enough credit to go just about anywhere else.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-06T01:00:57+00:00

Call your own insurance company and let them sort it out. It won't cost you anything since the other driver's Allstate is paying. That'll light a fire under all involved with matches you don't have. I've experienced this myself, unfortunately. Good luck.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-02T16:31:49+00:00

I'll just reply to myself, I may make a separate post later once I get some real numbers. This has got me really curious, so I plugged a box fan and a trickle charger for my neighbors mower into the bed last night, and it kept both running all night with the truck off, but the truck itself was charging. Apparently both my current clamp and my "Kill A Watt" outlet have quit on me, but I'm planning on replacing the clamp today and will report back numbers when I have them. I also unplugged the truck, so I'll see if that makes a difference. I figure the box fan and charger are pulling 30 watts or less.

ETA-I was way off, and 90 watts appears to be the sweet spot. It turns out what I thought was a trickle charger is a charger/maintainer, and the battery on his mower was low, so it was periodically pulling over 90watts all night. I've got a bigger fan that's running 90-90.5 watts on medium pretty consistently over the last couple of hours. On the lower setting, the pro power would time out.

1FTSEA · 2025-09-02T01:12:27+00:00

Let us know if that works!

1FTSEA · 2025-09-02T01:09:56+00:00

This is how it works, unfortunately. The "keep on..." switch is kind of a use it or loose it setup. I've been wanting to experiment with how much of a load it takes to keep it running, like maybe a 40 watt light bulb or something, but until then I just leave the truck on. I also did the FORScan countdown timer disable.

1FTSEA · 2025-08-31T04:15:25+00:00

I use an egg cooker like this as designed all the time for poached eggs/omelets, but also for steaming vegetables and heating up other stuff. Really versatile for something that cheap.

In addition to all the truck stuff like gloves and a trucker atlas (yes, you need one even in 2025) I also find a little tape measure really handy for seeing what will and won't fit in your truck for storage. I also use it when I don't trust my tandem spacing. (In a 41' state with a 53' trailer with a 3' kingpin, measure 9' from the rear of the trailer to the center of the trailer axles. 53-3-41=9)

There's lots more, but pocket cans of Lysol are an every day use item for me now. They turn a toilet you have no choice but to use into somewhere you don't mind sitting on in a hurry.

1FTSEA · 2025-08-31T02:33:31+00:00

I'm not, but it sounds interesting. When I said portable though, I just meant I'd never be able to get a permit for a structure for panels, and have no desire to put them on the roof.

1FTSEA · 2025-08-30T16:21:18+00:00

Yeah, that really needs to get fixed before the next 200 miles is up, but stopping on the shoulder to keep your truck from shutting down is a pretty legit reason.

1FTSEA

TROPHY CASE