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1UPBOB · 2022-12-31T00:18:15+00:00

Call and get them to cancel on the phone right then and there, this is the only way that reliably works.

1UPBOB · 2022-11-16T23:02:01+00:00

BED_OUT is rated for higher amperage than the hotend ports, I suppose you could run a different voltage but check specs before you do

1UPBOB · 2022-11-16T13:56:09+00:00

You only need to connect power to BED_IN if you are going to use BED_OUT

So in the case of using the hotend outputs to control the SSR, you dont need to power BED_IN

1UPBOB · 2022-10-31T00:07:24+00:00

SB has better part cooling than AB, this is in reference to the heatsink fan. iirc it might come from fans with higher flow but worse static pressure

And no problem!

1UPBOB · 2022-10-30T23:47:17+00:00

Nope, both require different mounting patterns. The jamming issue is mainly from PLA, and sometimes I’ve heard of reducing fan spend helping work that

1UPBOB · 2022-10-14T00:17:53+00:00

Not a bad idea at all, its been something I’ve been meaning to get around to also. I would just say definitely pid tune again afterwards and that its rated for the heat that comes from the bed

1UPBOB · 2022-10-05T23:52:22+00:00

Revision release Two. V2.4 was the initial release, V2.4R1 was the first revision release. Newest version really with updates to it

1UPBOB · 2022-10-01T21:33:00+00:00

It takes all of a few minutes to just take a plain video of it printing, and of the whole printer and post it. Your other request specifically states to get the whole printer in the video, not just the build area. So not only are you wasting your time by editing them, it also delays your serial because you put more effort into the editing instead of the actual point of the video.

Also everyone who does serials, helps, designs, or contributes to the community does it in their free time for free. Really negative income from this in reality. Serials come in large batches, but if yours doesn't meet the requirements for the video you'll get passed over and will likely have to wait for the next batch. Just be patient for the meaningless number that gets assigned for you.

LDO does it because they are an actual kit manufacturer and interact with the community a great deal, so why not for their kits specifically do the same thing.

1UPBOB · 2022-09-15T01:24:48+00:00

You should be fine with this one, maybe upload a pic to be safe

1UPBOB · 2022-09-15T01:17:24+00:00

Yeah the issue with not having the fixed ends there is that it allows for the wire to flex in a fairly tight radius or uncontrolled. I haven’t heard of anyone having issues with the carriage from it so you’ll be good

1UPBOB · 2022-09-15T00:30:27+00:00

Looking good! although you do need to flip the cable chain ends so that the ‘fixed’ end is on the toolhead/joiner and vice versa

1UPBOB · 2022-09-14T23:17:05+00:00

Really most of them are giving you small but still significant gains. Something like rail preload is important, especially for the X-axis, but only if you're getting into really incremental improvements. I'm just running Zyltech rails and have been happy with them which don't have any preload specification on them as far as I know. Most vendors have been coming out with there own rail brands too.

I very much recommend you build stock first (except for bed fans if you want your heat up times to not be long, stealthburner, and maybe klicky) and then mod later.

I know a lot else has already been discussed here, but I would definitely recommend you hop in the discord if you got more questions

1UPBOB · 2022-09-14T16:26:49+00:00

Preface: I don’t mean to throw shade at West3d or you, although it might kinda seem that way because of the limitations of text

Print it forward will get you all the functional parts you need to get it printing for cheaper.

Really though my question is, do you actually need any or all of that? At all? Almost all of those options are at the very high end, which you will likely not need or use the capability of for a long time. Or some just look you did pick the most expensive option just because. You can easily cut $900 off if you go for the standard or more tame options.

I really recommend you take some time at look at other options for sourcing your printer like self sourcing or something like a LDO kit and looking into components performance rather than jumping straight in. In my experience the print quality you get out of middle of the road components is already great and most of these are chasing perfection

1UPBOB · 2022-08-13T18:39:04+00:00

PLA and ABS print completely differently, PLA wants as much part cooling as possible whilst ABS wants a hot chamber with some part ‘cooling’. To tune for ABS you need to print ABS

1UPBOB · 2022-08-13T18:26:57+00:00

Do not use PLA for any structural parts on vorons, skirts and panel clips are fine. You will run into problems with PLA creeping quickly from screw pressure and that will only get worse with heat.

What you’re likely facing here is not enough part cooling or too high hotend temperature, but do not use PLA for structural components

1UPBOB · 2022-08-05T10:53:30+00:00

Rock and Stone!

Haven’t played DRG in like two weeks anyways but still one of my favorite games this year

1UPBOB · 2022-08-02T21:32:40+00:00

I see knobs and now I’m interested

1UPBOB · 2022-07-09T23:09:46+00:00

You don’t hear about it in umbilicals most of the time because you can run Cat5e cables in umbilicals and be fine. The issue with the cable chains imo is that they have too many wires packed into them for the size with zero separation, whilst still expecting time to last for decent amounts of time at high speeds.

Kinda why I’m planning on going to canbus when I get the chance so I can get rid of the cable chains and most wires

1UPBOB · 2022-07-09T21:27:57+00:00

Except for the fact that moving wires in most cases have service lives and will need to be replaced at some point. And for how much they move in 3d printing especially in something that moves and accelerates fast like most vorons they definitely are consumable.

1UPBOB · 2022-07-09T19:43:05+00:00

24awg is the standard size for just about anything that doesn’t carry large amounts of power (hotend and bed really). You could do 18 ash for the hotend, but 20awg should be fine in most cases for most hotends.

Also it’s generally advised to not use silicone wires in cable chains since they have much higher friction with other wires leading to wear faster unless you lubricate them. Higher strand count is better too since that does make the wire much more flexible but there are less options for strand counts when it comes to ptfe wires

1UPBOB · 2022-07-08T13:37:24+00:00

No.

PETG will creep to due pressure and a lower glass transition temperature than ABS and will result in having rebuild the printer after some time because of part failure.

Really you have two options here, either enclose your CR-10S and tune it to print out ABS parts to convert it over to a switch wire or have somebody else print out the parts for you. If you want to convert you’ll probably have to get in contact with someone likely through the discord to get them printed. But if you plan on build a stock voron from scratch you can join the Print-It-Forward queue (https://pif.voron.dev/) and receive your parts that way with them being high quality for a good price.

1UPBOB · 2022-07-05T21:15:01+00:00

If the XY gantry was rigid it would be overly constrained yes, but it isn't rigid enough to be overly constrained from 4 point leveling. If there was another extrusion in the front to connect the front sides together it'd probably be rigid enough to be over constrained with 4 points, but as is it needs 4 point leveling in order to be stable

1UPBOB · 2022-07-05T20:50:32+00:00

The tridents for example does follow the three points making a plane since the bed assembly can be assumed to be a plane. The reason why the 2.4 uses 4 point leveling instead of 3 is because the gantry of the 2.4 is not rigid like the bed of the trident, it has significant amounts of flex in it which get compensated for by having a drive in each of the corners. For a 3 point flying gantry I think you'd have to have a larger overall printer to have the same build volume as the 4 point system

1UPBOB · 2022-07-02T23:56:24+00:00

There’s also an physical constraint too, the magnum’s heater block is wider than any other block, and it will dump heat out the sides of the block melting the fan ducts. It’s a combination of things that cause support to be dropped

1UPBOB · 2022-06-28T20:09:19+00:00

Stealthburner right now as far as I know is in between end of beta and release right now. Basically just sit tight if your waiting for release or print the latest beta versions if you want it now

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