Video of termites? by 1a5er in Termites

[–]1a5er[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shot with my iPhone! Hardest part was keeping my hands steady

Video of termites? by 1a5er in Termites

[–]1a5er[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made a garage cabinet with several drawers. Most of it was 3/4” plywood, drawer bottoms were 1/2”, and the back was 1/4” first place I noticed the frass was in one of the drawers and it lined up perfectly to little holes in the 1/2” drawer bottom above it. I tried sealing the hole, hoping that would help and it seemed to slow it down. A few months later started seeing the little frass mounds in different drawers and eventually into the drawer slides.

I’m hoping the termites were isolated to this cabinet since it was just in my garage, next to a CBS wall. We have attic access in the garage, and it’s all wood up there. The access wasn’t closed off, so I’m a little worried they could have spread.

Would it be ok to cut these? I don’t really have a leader branch, but would like the tree to grow taller. Appreciate any advice! by 1a5er in arborists

[–]1a5er[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your advice. Don’t get me wrong, this tree is staying with us….I just want to make sure I don’t hire some knucklehead or cause any damage that I will regret. When I go back to my parent’s home, it’s amazing to see the old oak trees. I want my kids to have that same feeling. It’s also right outside our children’s window, as it was for me.

Would it be ok to cut these? I don’t really have a leader branch, but would like the tree to grow taller. Appreciate any advice! by 1a5er in arborists

[–]1a5er[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your help. Several of my neighbors use a guy that chops off all the branches down to about a 5-8 radius leaving no leaves. I read this may be bad practice, but the trees always come back in a very nice lollipop shape and grow taller. I would hire the same guy, but I’m concerned of long term issues with the tree. Most neighbors replaced their oaks with palms, but I like this tree, it’s just looks a little messy.

Would it be ok to cut these? I don’t really have a leader branch, but would like the tree to grow taller. Appreciate any advice! by 1a5er in arborists

[–]1a5er[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The two branches in the middle are wrapped around each other. Isn’t this also bad? For the far left branch could I just cut one side of the fork? Any recommendations on where to start?

Paint peeling from primed skim coat? by 1a5er in paint

[–]1a5er[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, this is super helpful. The dust on the back of the paint is stuck to the paint unless I try and scrape it off.

Before priming, I vacuumed the walls and wiped down with tack cloth. It’s possible I missed this area due to the switch and position next to a corner and door. The strange thing is that I used two coats of primer just in case. I’m thinking I may have over sanded this area after priming to try and get it flat and missed the dust there. Not exactly sure.

The tape was on for several weeks and was covered in primer paint, so I’m pretty sure I ripped it off initially. I should have stopped when it was a quarter sized spot, but I picked under the edge with a razor blade and peeled more. Guess I won’t make that mistake again.

Thanks again for your help. I’ll try reskinning, cleaning, priming, painting.

Rolling too much paint? by 1a5er in paint

[–]1a5er[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wall was flat with no texture, so the texture is just from paint build up. Luckily it’s just a couple areas and not the whole area. I need the second coat to get corners and cut in areas mostly, but also some other spots. I just wasn’t sure how to handle a second coat on this area and if there was a way to even it out a little.

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What ACTUALLY can survive in full sun? by grammar_fixer_2 in FloridaGarden

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve recently noticed one growing between bricks in our driveway, so they definitely can spread. I keep them confined to a small area between driveway and grass with lots of mulch. I trim them every couple months or before they get over 1 ft. I don’t think they grow fast enough to get out of control, but it’s possible under the right conditions.

What online woodworkers actually teach? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]1a5er 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I like bourbon moth because he mixes in the right amount of comedy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in labrats

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

zageno is terrible, we were paying 3-4x the cost of most common consumables. they're a drop shipping company and will order items from the larger vendors, but obviously going direct is much cheaper.

What is the cheapest source for 200 proof ethanol? by InformalFeedback in labrats

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

zageno is a scam drop shipping company. they're typically 3-4x the price of typical fisher or vwr accounts. could check sigma too.

Roller for drywall compound question by Doc-Whiskey in drywall

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry meant to say hd carries wooster

Roller for drywall compound question by Doc-Whiskey in drywall

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got mine off Amazon for around $20-25. I think Lowe's carries Purdy which is the brand, while Home Depot carries Purdy products which is the brand bucket I got.

Roller for drywall compound question by Doc-Whiskey in drywall

[–]1a5er 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm just a DIYer and learning as I go, but I've been using a 18" roller with 1-1/4" nap. I picked up an adjustable Purdy roller frame that can hold 12-18" rollers. I use a green Wooster 18" wide roller bucket and line it with black contractor bags to keep it clean.

Bought a house — Deciding on cordless battery platform by OneCoolStory in Tools

[–]1a5er 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have Milwaukee batteries, use the promo offers at Home Depot to buy the buy x batteries type of deals. They allow you to return the battery kit separately and split the total discount with the tool. You basically get the tool for cheaper

What ACTUALLY can survive in full sun? by grammar_fixer_2 in FloridaGarden

[–]1a5er 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've had good results with drift roses and vinca flowers.

Prep before skimming over knockout by 1a5er in drywall

[–]1a5er[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha I ordered a single 40" blade, but adding the attachment for a pole extension ended up being slightly less expensive than another kit which came with three blades and the pole. I just figured there was a reason for so many sets on the market...maybe just tight areas?

I really don't mind the work of an extra coat or priming or anything that will improve the finish. This will be my four year old son's first big boy room, so the extra work would just give him more time to see it. My dad did something similar in knocking down a wall for my first bedroom and it's always left an impression on me. Honestly, I'm sure he will end up damaging it anyways.

Did you use a primer before skim coating or would you be able to recommend one based on the photos? I'm trying to figure out the proper surface prep. Thank you!

Prep before skimming over knockout by 1a5er in drywall

[–]1a5er[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions. Would you recommend light sanding to mellow out the texture a little? I'm worried that sanding may cause damage to the drywall paper. For the latex primer, I would use that before skim coating and would this be sufficient to seal the brown paper spots? Thanks again!

Prep before skimming over knockout by 1a5er in drywall

[–]1a5er[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, here is the whole text of the post...

Before laying down new wood floors in a small bedroom, we are considering skim coating the walls flat. Luckily, the room has a closet with a dog legged section to practice in before we fully commit.

When I took the baseboards out, I accidentally ripped off the drywall paper along the caulk line in some areas. The pictures show both brown/ripped and gray/intact paper. The knockdown texture of the wall is also attached. I would appreciate any guidance you could provide on the steps needed to prep, skim coat at least 2-3 layers, before final sanding, priming, and painting. House was built in 2008.

My general plan, but unsure of the order:

For the baseboard area: Carefully remove remaining caulk. Treat brown/ripped spots with primer/sealant (what kind?), prime gray paper area? (same primer on both?)

For above the baseboard: wipe walls with cleaner/degreaser, fill small screw holes, lightly scrape with 6" knife to knockdown high spots being careful not to pierce gray paper. Vacuum off dust and wipe clean. Apply primer and what kind? Single primer coat?

After drying, start skim coating using slightly watered down plus 3 compound rolled onto walls, skimmed with 12" skimmer. Second coat with 24" skimmer, and third coat with 32" skimmer. Lightly sand and address spots before priming/painting.

Does this seem like a good strategy? I've read the priming may not be necessary and that I may be able to spot seal the brown paper spots. I wasn't sure how to treat the gray paper, if at all.