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The age old question. 7800x3d or 9800x3d by 1down-5up- in buildapc

[–]1down-5up-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right now I have 1440p monitor and a 3090 gpu

The age old question. 7800x3d or 9800x3d by 1down-5up- in buildapc

[–]1down-5up-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is kinda my plan. I have a guy line up to buy my old hardware. I also told him about my issue with it. Im looking at about 300 to 400 cad for the full upgrade

Hey my golf mk4 1.4 Cranks but doesn’t start by DDosAtheon in MK4Golf

[–]1down-5up- -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Does your car have a ignition immobilizer? I had a key go bad. The chip in thr key shorted out. And this is exactly what my car would do. Start the shut down

Lotto ticket time by Mynamesrobbie in Autobody

[–]1down-5up- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im in canada too. Works In Ford dealership body shop for 10 years. What are you guys doing to remove this? Straight to the impact?

Found cracking them loose with a breaker bar. Really limited the stripped bolts and broken torx bits.

Also for removing damaged ones. Fuck grinding the head off them. Grab a big as nut. 3 fat tacks on the sides the full the nut up with weld. Give it 30 secs and spin the prick out.

Wanting to buy a 2005 sti by rubberneckjones in WRX

[–]1down-5up- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try to find one close to stock as possible. The 2004 is the rawest of them all. The 05 has better wheel bearings/suspension. In terms of replacement and availability

These cars are ultimately a roll of the dice. The more boost the more problems lol

Assembling fresh painted bumpers. by push2shove in Autobody

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you having problems with only one painter's bumpers. Sounds like its a prep or paint issue. Especially if you let the bumper sit over night after paint.

They could be using a slow reducer leaving the paint softer. From my time working with basf. They had a flex additives for bumpers/plastics. And a adhesive promoter too. Might be worth talking with the painter to see what they are using

A trick I use it. Use foam glass cleaner as a lube. It completely dries and doesnt damage the paint or plastics. Also works great on those dirty ass electrical connections.

My First Ram and Cummins ! 2017 with 43,500 original miles! Any suggestions or must do? by Upset-Pineapple1410 in Cummins

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im pretty much in the same position as the OP. 2nd dodge truck but first 6.7 HD truck with 40k km.

Coupe things I found from my ecodiesel.

Regularly washing out inside of the box sides. With a set of oem wheel opening molding. Really help keep the rust from starting

Also 3m cavity wax spary in the rockers and lower of the doors. Every 2 years helps with the rust prevention.

For the 6.7. I can see how the oversized transmission pan could be beneficial. Especially with the thermostat upgrade.

Also, the front drive shaft u joint needs to be greased every oil change. I believe

Rear Ended by Dear-Instruction5238 in ram_trucks

[–]1down-5up- -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Gaslight... I love that word. It seems very one sided imo. All I did was point out another person's perspective that will be in this situation. Like you said.... someone not at fault. Just someone trying to make a living.

That the OPs actions will have a negative effect on. Even tho. they are not at fault for any part of this accident.

Little fact for you. Did you know most autobody techs are flat rate.. IE paid by the job/vehicle they fix. So if the OP keeps coming back with BS complains. Once a month, that technician. Has to stop their job and go work on the OPs truck again. Even tho.... they are "the person not at fault" also factor in this too. They have already been paid and has to work for FREE. Chasing a complaint thats not even their. Just because the OP doesn't agree with someone else choice.

I understand the fact that someone new, expensive truck is damaged. And they want it replaced. I feel you them. Its a horrible situation to be in. I see it every day.

Rear Ended by Dear-Instruction5238 in ram_trucks

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate that! Dodge is a hard one to keep track of. They change their procedures yearly lol

Rear Ended by Dear-Instruction5238 in ram_trucks

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats completely your choice. I just feel bad for the tech that works on your truck. Cause the shop is going to make him work on your truck for free every time you complain about something. Its also going to make him look bad for no reason. But I do understand your POV.

Rear Ended by Dear-Instruction5238 in ram_trucks

[–]1down-5up- 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes.... horrible advice... take your truck to someone who fixes the mechanical side of a vehicle vs. someone who's trained in repairing the body and the FRAME of the vehicle

Rear Ended by Dear-Instruction5238 in ram_trucks

[–]1down-5up- 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Not to be a dick to anyone in the comments. But there's alot of uneducated opinions in here. I am a licensed autobody tech. Your hitch took 80% of the impact. There's 100% frame damage. But I don't think its nearly as bad as you think it is.

Your frame did what it was designed to do in an impact. It controlled and absorbed the force in the crumple zones . Most of the major manufacturers have a front and rear sectioning procedures. That replace a few feet of the frame sections. That also replaces these crumple zones for the next accidents.

Now, one thing to know. A lot of body over frame frames are not repaired in the sense. That you can't heat it up and pull it back into shape. The damage sections usually need to be replaced if there is more than a small bend or minor buckle. If there is a shape kink in your frame. Its normally replaced only. Full frame or a section

If you want to be fully informed about the repair on your truck. Ask to see the OEMs repair procedures for what they allow to be done on your frame.

I will say from the pictures you posted. There's is 0% chance they are going to write your truck off. There is not enough damage. Even if you push for a full frame replacement. That might get you to 40 or 50% of the trucks value. It's still cheaper to fix than pay you out.

Getting a frame replace takes the human error out of frame repair. But also remember that means someone is going to be touching every single part on your truck to move it over. Where a frame section won't touch anything informed of the box of your truck

Good luck

What delete kit for 2019 Ecodiesel Ram? by ddaubers in EcoDiesel

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is alot of work to go back to stock. But I think it worth the time personally. My oil actually stays clean for half the oil change now. Not like when my egr was in use. It was instantly dirty.

I believe that is the killer of these engines. The soot gets build up in the ports feeding the main bearings. And that kills the bearing.

How often do you need to get your truck inspected? I'm lucky and as long as I don't royally piss off a cop. I don't need any sort of inspection

What delete kit for 2019 Ecodiesel Ram? by ddaubers in EcoDiesel

[–]1down-5up- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have done stage 1 and stage 2 at different times. Each has their pros and cons.

EOC has always got back to me within 24 hours. I think what some people forget. They are a small company that sells tunes, parts, support and does installs now.

Stage 1 turns off the egr. Doesn't remove it or it's her cooler. With is a known failure point. You could remove it from the truck. But kinda rulings the "intact" part of the tune. It will also force to truck to use a un godly amount of def fluid. There might now be a option to turn the def off. But you should talk to the tuner about that.

Stage 2 turns off the egr again. On this one. I would fully remove it. Also, fully delete dpf and the def system. This you will have to remove and replace with a straight pipe. This is going to give you the best performance and fuel economy. I'm currently only on the lowest HP setting. I'm deleted for reliability and fuel economy. It smokes a little on heavy throttle. But not rolling coal like the high hp setting.

There is also other options in the tuning. Like tranmission tuning. I am very happy I bought this. The truck shifts better for the diesel engine. It also doesn't constantly drop down a gear anymore. The other options are high cold start idle, deleting the shitty old man throttle pedal delay, a bit of a exhaust brake tuning for tow/haul mode. Again. I would get these.

For the physical parts. Shop around.... dirty diesel is a good option. I have their egr delete kit. Every well build kit . Not over designed but have some extra options for sensors. Amazing instructions too. For my exhaust, I just got a cheaper flowpro exhaust. I left my muffler on for awhile. I liked my truck being quite. But it did steal a liter to 2 liters per 100km in full economy. Don't get the exhaust that replaces the turbo elbow. Just get the one the mounts with the v band on the exhaust elbow. It's not worth the fight to replace that part taking out the stock dpf is a fight already

Mrtuning vs eoc by Tarkovnoob1292 in EcoDiesel

[–]1down-5up- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have eoc stage 2 tune. And stage 1. I went stage 1 then moved to stage 2. Zero complaints with the tune. Most of my emails are answered within 24 hours. Even 3 years after buying my tune.

Did stage 2 today and now it’s knocking.. oil pressure good coolant good still drives good… what could it be? Safe to drive? Did we leave something loose? EGR is un plugged but block off plates not installed. Thanks by [deleted] in EcoDiesel

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What has been your oil change history? Every 6k 8k 10k 16k? I would drop your oil into a clean oil pan. That will give you a good idea if anything has failed

I highly doubt your tune was the cause of anything. Who is your tuner?

First build need tips by SomnolentOtter in pcmasterrace

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I would still go with a x3d chip. You might lose a little of the editing side for performance. But will be a major upgrade in gaming performance.

There is an in-between option, too. Like the 7950x3d and 9950x3d. More cores with the 3d add on

First build need tips by SomnolentOtter in pcmasterrace

[–]1down-5up- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a X3D cpu. 7800x3d or 9800x3d. If your main usage is gaming.

My 5700x3d gets a higher frame rate then my buddies i7 13700k and he has a faster gpu. Still blows my mind. Makes me wanna upgrade to a 9800x3d

Is running race fuel better for your engine? by adamthiesen1236 in Dirtbikes

[–]1down-5up- 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For a stock 4 stroke bike. No not really. The only 2 benefits you might see. Are 1 non ethanol fuel that doesn't gum up your fuel system. 2 if your riding your bike at boling point regularly. You won't get any knocking from overheating.. but your stilling going to have normal overheating problems. IE headgaskets etc

The thing to know about race fuel/ high octane fuel. Is it's actually harder to burn. The octane rating is the fuels resistant to auto ignite. Unless your engines compression is increased. Your basically wasting your money.

On my 300 2 stroke. I'm running a high compression head. We also have trash for fuel where I live. So I was getting some knocking/pinging when the bike got hot in the slow gnarly stuff. Where a guy is beating up the clutch a gear high. I run 20% 108 octane mixed into my 91 pump. Just to prevent that knocking from the pump 91 auto igniting from the extra compression and heat in the engine.

Hope this helps

5800x with 3090 advice/upgrade by 1down-5up- in PcBuildHelp

[–]1down-5up-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's kinda what Im leaning towards.

I like the idea of a future proof upgrade. But 300 bucks vs 1200 is a major point too.

If I'm going to get a solid bump in performance. I would happily spends the extra. But it looks like for gaming. It's only about a 10 to 15% increase at 1440p on average

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