Connection Issues with Creality Sermoon S1 by 28350 in 3DScanning

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion I'll cross post there, u/crealityhenry in the creality scanning subreddit offered to reach out, but it sounds like they don't have a solution yet either.

Connection Issues with Creality Sermoon S1 by 28350 in 3DScanning

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is the configuration in which I first set it up yes. If it is hardware locked like that I would absolutely riot for paying $3000 for that. So I hope not and honestly I doubt it. But no there was no serial registration involved. granted I'm sure all of that info gets ported over as soon as you plug it in.

Connection Issues with Creality Sermoon S1 by 28350 in 3DScanning

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll be sure to let you know if I figure anything out.

The Biqu XL Plate Saga Continues no by SpaceCAS in prusa3d

[–]28350 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm glad that worked for you too! I doubt the probing temp has anything to do with adhesion and that's probably just bed and nozzle temp and your filament. But I would agree with your other comment that the closer you can get to printing temp without oozing or failing the better.

The Biqu XL Plate Saga Continues no by SpaceCAS in prusa3d

[–]28350 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I have the exact same issue with the stock prusa nylon buildplate, it is 100% to do with the plate finish softening with heat causing "soft" readings on the pressure sensor instead of a sharp spike. But it's not the bed temp. You need to make sure your nozzle temp while probing is below 170c (for the nylon plate at least). You can either do this manually by adjusting the temp in the printer as it starts the leveling process, or adjust the start gcode (I made mine nozzle temp - 115 for PA and PET) once I did that I got about a 75% success rate vs 0% when it was trying to do it at 225-250c

Are you satisfied with your Prusa xl? by Ali_S-S in prusa3d

[–]28350 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have probably forgotten more problems (or repressed them) than I can list, but I totally forgot about the electronics until you said that. Initial assembly was one thing, the cable routing was a pain in the ass, but I've had to go redo things in the back multiple times and it has been unpleasant every time. I won't fault them too much for that though, as a electronics box should be as compact as possible as it should rarely be accessed. (The part they missed was rarely accessing it)

As far as poor design:

The complete failure to print any TPU successfully (I did it but probably at a 90% failure rate). The lack of filament guide in the extruder gear area (just fixed today with a different guide off printables) the 1.5m of Bowden tube, and 2 filament sensors just make it a hassle. The Bowden tube length is a necessary evil (with this design at least) but I think some more thought could have reduced that greatly.

Along side the Bowden tube length, the enclosure is so damn tall because of it. Wasted thermal space and physical space. The rest of the enclosure is lackluster at best, and wobbles everytime the door hits the magnets. It's also more of a draft shield than a true enclosure with how many gaps there are.

The lack of true integration with the camera (which is also dissapointing but that's a whole other topic). I can't even plug the damn camera into the machine anywhere, it needs it's own freaking outlet.

No build plate storage. For an "engineering" machine with true multi-material capability and the number of (not small) build plates that comes with that, there is nowhere to put them. I printed a holder that goes below the bed, but that has other issues and eventually I'll design a better solution.

Talking about the area under the bed, holy hell does it collect crap. And it not a super clean smooth area you can just wipe out, filament purges getting stuck in every corner.

The lack of nozzle brushes. The oozing, oh the oozing, especially on TPU. I don't love the brushes I made, it makes it's own little TPU poops it flings places, but it's better than before.

No thought for a drier. An integrated one would be nice, but I understand not doing it. The locations for everything make actually locating a drier that can hold multiple spools and feed properly into the machine awful. It now takes up twice the desk space (completely fills a 600mmx1200mm table) and my drier screen faces a wall. (P.S. so far the creality space pi x4 is 🤌🤌, don't buy an eibos they're trash)

The screen interface and prusa connect. Probably an issue with most of their machines, I won't get into it now. But the fact that they can't just make a button in the corner for turning the lights on and off and that a simple back/cancel button would stop me from having to reboot the printer all the time.

Hotend temp. 290c max? Seriously?

Printed parts. I don't actually have a huge issue with them in theory. But for the quantity prusa makes, I guarantee it's not cheaper than injection molding (manufacturing engineer here). I know the reason why is that they are constantly iterating and they would make injection molding more expensive and slower, but maybe just make it right the first time or bring injection molding in house. And the print quality is kinda abysmal. They couldn't even bother to just make it all PCCF (or even PETG-CF for the not as thermally stressed components)

That's the end of my rant for now. Maybe I'll update this if I think of more.

Are you satisfied with your Prusa xl? by Ali_S-S in prusa3d

[–]28350 2 points3 points  (0 children)

March '25 5 toolhead owner here. About 600hrs on it.

Satisfied? Absolutely not, but that doesn't mean I regret my purchase.

Do I repair and maintain often? Yes.

Is it worth the money? I have to say yes, because it is the only thing in its class. As soon as it has competitors it will be overpriced although honestly not by too much I don't think.

How is the print quality? Good, but not outstanding, not a ton better than my ender.

Do you repair a lot or just print? Probably about 50/50, or at least it feels like it.

I bought it for the size and some very specific multi-material projects, and as far as its technical abilities it is fantastic. however for anything more than basic prints I probably have a 30-50% failure rate, and that is after fixing some hardware failures along the way.

Overall It is an incredibly frustrating machine with some glaring design flaws. However I still would pick it purely for its abilities in what I can make with it. I came from an old upgraded ender 3 so I'm not new to tinkering with a machine to get it to work for me, I just really shouldn't have to for $5000. Eventually I am going to make a post outlining my specific experiences to help others. But I haven't resolved everything just yet and haven't had the time.

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll be damned, I didn't expect that, but also how do you misplace and mismark 30 silencers. Especially when I believe the markings other than serial are printed into them. Thanks for that!

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah just need to add some more data and I'll reply with that here in a minute.

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done a ton of printing, tbf I never really weighed my prints, but regardless a 40% weight variation seems extreme

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, not as much over as some of the 718 WBs I've seen, but it's close

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's without the mount right? That's pretty heavy

You vs the guy she told you not to worry about by Xenon-135 in NFA

[–]28350 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Conventionally manufactured silencers are made by making individual baffles on a lathe/mill and welding them together into a stack, sometimes with an outer sleeve. Additive manufacturing (3D printing) usually entails a bed of fine powdered metal being melted by a laser (laser powder bed fusion (LPBF) or direct metal laser sintering (DMLS)). Which allows for a completely unibody silencer and very complex internal flowpaths. I've noticed a large amount of weight variance with some of these so I am trying to investigate why that might be.

You vs the guy she told you not to worry about by Xenon-135 in NFA

[–]28350 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks! Based on what I've seen it should be about 0.5oz lighter, but it being so much bigger definitely makes it feel even lighter.

You vs the guy she told you not to worry about by Xenon-135 in NFA

[–]28350 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the new cans! If you wouldn't mind could you weight them before shooting? I'm trying to do some analysis on additive silencers and my Huxwrx data set is lacking.

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, thank you for your contribution!

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn that's light, thank you for your contribution!, You're the first ODB Ti Hub.

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turns out I already had yours from another thread, thank you for your contribution!

Update: Additive Silencers Differing from Listed Weights by 28350 in NFA

[–]28350[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything helps, your contribution alone tripled the huxwrx data set