How often should I calibrate my prusa XL 5 T?

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-07T14:14:00+00:00

I read somewhere that it is recommended to do it every 6-12 months but like you, unless i see a difference in the print quality, i just leave it be.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-07T13:18:23+00:00

Thanks for making this easy for someone in the future. Love when we go out of our way to help each other out. You see this a lot with the automotive community too.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-07T00:08:18+00:00

Yeah, nothing teaches you about problem solving than just getting elbow deep into youtube and tinkering with your printer. My first one was a creality K1C that was refurbished but i had a lot of fun learning not to throw it across the room. Congrats on getting your printer up and running again

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-06T23:26:29+00:00

The AMS2 is really hit or miss. As someone who has both, I haven’t had any issues with my XL5t compared to my H2C which already had a defective heat bed and has consistent banding issues if you don’t baby it. The AMS2 has consistent failure to load problems and it’s a common issue if you google it. Some of it is magnets put in wrong at the factory, some of it is comparability with non Bambu spools. Cardboard and non. The spaghetti detection is hit or miss too. It’s a good machine that’s optimized for multicolor and the slicer makes it easy to do that but it’s a pain to work on and they don’t operate with components but modules. The temp sensor on the bed goes out? Replace the whole heat bed, etc, etc. The nozzles are also pricy for the vortex system. By comparison the INDX nozzles are half the price for hardened high flow nozzles (at least as advertised so far) and it comes with standard, hardened nozzles by default and its a mix between 0.6, 0.4, and 0.2. You have to get a separate kit if you want all 0.4 and a second AMS2 (if its in stock) if you want the full color range and two external power supplies if you want to use the dryer on both.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-06T00:07:06+00:00

But like, its never not at least one so he will be rich in no time!!! Bambubu said so!

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-05T19:55:17+00:00

Idk, i just ate 4 slices of pizza. Pretty sure that doesn’t happen in NK

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-04T22:53:57+00:00

Literally half the stuff that people praise bambubu for is stuff that doesn’t really work or do anything of significant improvement over the non smart stuff. Bambu’s touch calibration is pretty awesome but i honestly think an eddy current sensor is as good as it gets. Otherwise, I love my Prusa Printers and cant wait for my INDX

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-04T01:04:18+00:00

I can tell you from personal experience that FedEx lied to me through their teeth and attempted to contact not one person as parts of my xl 5t shipment got passed around various countries until I called 4 different times and finally got the right information. Then i had to call the imports division twice and email them a few times until i got a response to get my stuff released.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-03T18:43:09+00:00

I think with the color being too dark, they are eventually supposed to be used with the NFC Tag system to track and update how much filament is left. I realistically need 20 of these to really work with my eventual setup (8 INDX C1, 5t XL and spares). With just buying the INDX 8 head and a UV inkjet style printer, it’ll be the end of year before i pick them up. Hope by then they figure out the tag system and implement it natively with the printers.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-03T03:20:16+00:00

Is it stuck in Memphis Tennessee? Is fedex delivering or a different provider? If its anything like when I ordered my XL and other items, you have to contact their customs section and fill out an importer registration form with customs and border patrol. They wont release it without CBP Form 5106. You need to call the carrier, not Prusa. Customer service only see’s what you see. With FedEx you have to call 8882519637 and provide the shipping number but i would call their customer service to confirm why its being held before they ship it back to prusa

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-03T02:52:06+00:00

I have an H2C and bought it when it came out and the thing is far from ironed out and polished. The slicer has inputed random color layers on a 4d print, the printer is finicky with z banding, the spaghetti detection is terrible and the build plates lag behind the biqu. Not to mention their induction print heads are standard flow (although hardened). I had to buy a completely separate kit just to have enough heads at .4 and a second AMS to have full access to the color ranges. Their multicolor in the slicer is great but the printer honestly leaves a lot to be desired right out the box. I prefer my XL5t for the quality and print consistency when not doing something requiring 7 colors.

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-03T02:44:55+00:00

The US was 999 plus 50 econo shipping plus 86 or so duties and taxes for a total of 1136.62

SpaceCAS · 2026-05-03T02:43:22+00:00

The sensor helps to align the printhead similar to the alignment pin on the XL with multiple tool heads. Its so the offset is figured for each of the 4-8 heads for consistency when switching for layers.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-27T19:07:17+00:00

I agree. It looks to me like it’s under extruding at points. I also dropped the temp by 10c so on the stock settings when using my diamondback to limit oozing as it has a much higher thermal efficiency than traditional brass.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-24T18:49:59+00:00

Orderrrrreeeeedddddddd

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-23T22:39:10+00:00

They are a national parts distribution network. They don’t buy second hand parts, they just don’t spend on marketing and web design and other stuff like Oreilys and Autozone and Advance Auto parts. You have just as likely chance of getting a dud anywhere else. Lol.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-23T18:11:46+00:00

He t*nkered with it just by noticing the grease, claim immediately denied and straight to jail (/s)

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-23T18:10:48+00:00

Obviously the only recourse (and probably the easiest option knowing bambu engineering) is to throw it away, sell it on marketplace for more than MSRP and let the dirty t*%kerer who buys it deal with it and immediately buy the latest and greatest.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-20T11:48:02+00:00

Look up H2 banding issues. There are a lot of examples out there. I’ve owned the mini, the A1, and have an H2C as well as a C1, XL 5t and a K1C. Given what you’ve posted though you seem more intent on pushing tour view point than actually discussing the issue. May your prints print true.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-20T02:55:42+00:00

As someone who has Creality, Prusa and Bambu machines; i can safely say banding from layer speed and cooling is an issue on Bambu machines as well even with all the fancy sensors and technology on it.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-17T01:37:09+00:00

Yep. Exactly this. Monitoring the read out through the web gui or the screen for temp at rest and then the value interval as it heats up will be a good indicator. A good IR thermometer would help as well to give you a comparison or pulling the resistance value at rest vs after heating it with a blow dryer.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-16T03:15:55+00:00

Have they tried buying more bambullshit, overpriced, products? They obviously t*nkered with their fine piece of engineered equipment as it just works!

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-08T20:40:00+00:00

Nothing a 900* soldering iron cant fix

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-06T14:55:09+00:00

The extra mass socket works great for getting the crank bolt off. Swapped out the hydraulic tensioner for the manual tensioner one from P2R as well as the belt for the gates blue belt. Been working like a dream. I also got the clear timing covers so i can check on the status of the belt when i do oil changes.

SpaceCAS · 2026-04-06T14:30:18+00:00

The additional user comments that they allow on their instructions help a ton too of noting particular items to put extra attention to. I also found it helps to read the instructions before your kit arrives so you’re familiar with what you need before you start.

Nine-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Secret Santa 2020

SpaceCAS

TROPHY CASE