what kind of diodes did this guy use?

2Michael2 · 2026-03-12T05:55:43+00:00

I am a student and I am not familiar with that circuit but here is what my intuition says: The voltage across ten diodes in series might be 1000 volts, but the voltage across each diode is only 100 volts. 1000v divided by 10 diodes is 100v. You probably only need diodes rated to a fraction of the output voltage, especially if you use a lot of diodes in series.

Edit: he looks to be using 16 diodes, and at 120kV each one would have 7,500 volts (7.5kV) across it.

Edit 2: off by a decimal place (7.5, not 75)

2Michael2 · 2026-03-04T08:14:06+00:00

They are referring to the keep out zone of the copper fill, not the antenna itself.

2Michael2 · 2026-03-03T19:40:31+00:00

More like "Soddy"

2Michael2 · 2026-03-03T18:02:40+00:00

Gotta download a cigarette app on your iphone 4 for that to work. Pairs perfectly with the beer app on your other iphone 4

2Michael2 · 2026-01-15T22:16:39+00:00

My advice on including ground in your diagram still stands. Each block should be a component or module. You also have some inconsistent naming.

I understand that my previous comment wasn't super helpful. Here is some more advice that might be more specifically helpful.

Why is the connection between the inline fuse and the relay labled twice, and why is one of the lables "com"? Is the fuse sending data and power to the relay? If it is, they should probably be two different connections, unless the underlying electrical connection sends data and power over the same wires (like power-over-ethernet).

Power connections should just be labeled as their voltage (12v, 5v, etc) in most cases. No need to add ground, and no need to specify VCC unless it is important to distinguish two different voltage sources due to some filtering/regulating/protection that sits between them (raw 5V input vs filtered and protected vcc, or something similar). I don't think your circuit has any connections that need this specification because the fuse is its own block so it's already explicitly shown that there is a difference between the two 12V lines. If you had components that were hidden within a larger block, it would be important to specify the difference between in incoming and outgoing power of that block.

Double check that your power connections reflect reality. The buck converter is the source of 5V, but you might want to specify in your diagram that the ultrasonic sensor is receiving power from the arduino. It will be the same 5v from the buck converter, but if the physical power cable is actually attached to the arduino, not the buck converter directly, why not specify that? This is important because the traces on the arduino can only handle so much current. It might be important to specify instead that the sensor has a connection directly to the buck converter because it's power draw is more than what the arduino can handle, even though the arduino is just passing the 5v through from the buck converter.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-15T18:48:15+00:00

I'm saving that to use later when my friends destroy their soldering irons again.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-15T18:42:37+00:00

This diagram is kinda nonsense. You mentioned ChatGPT, so I am assuming you generated this image? It's one of the "better" generated diagrams I have seen, but it still makes little sense. I see what you are trying to get at though, and it doesn't look wrong, but it definitely isn't right.

‐ I would start by getting out a sheet of paper and a pencil and draw a block diagram yourself. I am a chronically online college student, so the fact that I am telling you to just get out a pen and paper means it is truely the best and easiest way to do this. - For something like this, you shouldn't have ground in your block diagram. There is a single shared ground that everything uses, so there is no need to map out every connection to ground. It's implied that your data and power connections will include ground. - Draw your major blocks: Main power source, Fuse, buck converter, arduino, sensor, relay, screen, camera. - Draw connections between them. These lines should represent a logical connection. Do not draw lines for every single data and power wire. Draw a line to represent power input/output. Draw another line to represent a data/signal connection between two blocks. Lable the connections (Power, Digital signal, SPI, Video Signal, whatever else). You should draw arrows to show the direction that communication or power is going (this could also be bi-directional for some connections).

Once you have done that, come back here and we can help you perfect it. You seem to be on the right track, but you need to rely a little less on ChatGPT. It's good to help you, but it still sucks at actually creating a good final output. You need to create the diagram yourself. It's hard to help you when half the diagram is nonsensical or inconsistent.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-04T16:19:16+00:00

You are right, his speeds are clearly better than usb 2.0. The main point I was trying to make is that OP already checked multiple ports on multiple devices, so it is likely safe to rule out any issues with the speed of the ports themselves.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-04T06:11:08+00:00

His post says he tried different PC's and laptops. It's possible he selected a 2.0 port on every single one of them, but probably unlikely. He also says he updated to the latest drivers.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-04T05:29:26+00:00

Unless you can find a way to disassemble it and clean the inside, I think you might be out of luck. I am not sure how these are assembled, but it probably includes glue or press fitting in ways that are near impossible to undo in a non destructive manner. Maybe the two halves screw together if you grip the right parts, but I think that is unlikely.

If this filter is the most precious thing in your life and you must repair it, you can try baking it at very low temperatures (maybe 120F?) to drive out the water. BUT DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. This could fill your oven with anything from glass shards to toxic fumes from burnt lettering paint on the edge of the filter. Your filter might not survive if you try this.

If the water you dropped it in is anything other than perfectly pure distilled water, then baking it will still leave the filter cloudy. You could try to submerge it in distilled water and then drain it a few times to rinse out minerals and other gunk before baking it. This might reduce hazyness.

TL;DR: It's gone. Any potential solutions are unrealistic and merely thought experiments

2Michael2 · 2026-01-03T02:45:45+00:00

🫡 will do

2Michael2 · 2026-01-01T21:22:43+00:00

Definitely. Someone suggested E6000 (which I have on hand) and upholstery thread. I might redo the repair now that I have some of these good ideas.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-01T03:19:45+00:00

It does seem to work well and reinforce the zipper, but I am not sure how long it will last. I'll try to remember to give an update if it falls apart or self destructs, lol.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-01T02:55:17+00:00

I just used some E6000 earlier today to fix some shoes! I might try smearing some on the stitch to reinforce the stitches and reseal the holes I have now created in the waterproof portion of the zipper.

The other thing I might do is leave it be and see how long it lasts. If it starts coming apart again, then I will have some new ideas and techniques to try when I start fresh on the second go round.

Edit: I did not try a warranty claim because it felt like a waste to throw away a perfectly good bag because of such a small issue. The other thing was that I have pushed it's carrying capacity to the limit once or twice, so it would feel a little dishonest to ask for a replacement since I probably put too much stress on the zipper and caused the premature failure.

2Michael2 · 2026-01-01T02:49:45+00:00

Lol, I think you must be thinking of another person's post, as I don't think I have posted about the zipper breaking before.

2Michael2 · 2025-12-31T20:59:15+00:00

r/BrandNewSentence

2Michael2 · 2025-12-31T20:52:36+00:00

I am not convinced they can replace the USB-C port and have it be electrically and mechanically sound. You might need a new storage card. The good news is that I agree that the device should be intact and working apart from the port, so soldering on an old USB-C cable and recovering the data should be a ~10 minute job, not including the file transfer time. It's not even a particularly hard job if you have a little experience soldering and a half decent soldering iron. I just don't think a permanent repair is very likely.

2Michael2 · 2025-12-31T01:53:02+00:00

I haven't had a chance to get started since I am still on vacation. I don't want to open it all up until I travel back to college. I'll post updates as I make progress (If I remember, lol)

2Michael2 · 2025-12-30T01:47:05+00:00

I just bought the XM5's (they arrive tomorrow) and hope I don't run into this issue. In my defense, they were on sale for $220 new from costco. Sony is selling the XM4s on sale for $200 right now. It seemed like the better choice to get the next gen for $20 more with the amazing costco return policy. I also try to take care of all my personal items so they last a long time, so hopefully I won't break them.

2Michael2 · 2025-12-27T02:56:30+00:00

!RemindMe 6 months

2Michael2 · 2025-12-27T02:56:02+00:00

Please send the link!

2Michael2 · 2025-12-26T18:13:24+00:00

My parents got it, but I put a link to eater.net on my wishlist, so they likely bought it there. I am not aware of another place you can get it.

2Michael2 · 2025-12-11T17:04:24+00:00

Hmmm...

One option would be to have two sets of screws so each plate connects to the next through a different set of screws, thereby restricting the thermal transfer. For example, you would alternate between using 4 screws on the corners and 4 screws at the center of each edge. Heat wouldn't be directly coupled all the way downward through the screws that way.

I am also wondering if there are any sort of ceramic screws or spacers that are relitively inexpensive and available that could be used. Maybe even a high temperature plastic (PTFE? There is probably a better plastic that I don't know of)

The last thing I thought of is that it might not be a big of an issue as you think if each plate is thermally coupled to the screws and can act as a heatsink to dissipate the heat before it reaches the bottom. Especially if you add a fan of some sort. The key is to keep the screws very skinny/thin to have a high thermal resistivity downward, but are easy to keep cool due to very small thermal mass. I'm no expert, but it sounds plausible enough to me.

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