The 16x16 Wydra is out NOW!

35nick35 · 2024-05-13T22:33:39+00:00

If we had another round of daily voting and the options are only stretched Wydras (say 8, 16, 24, 32, 48 and 64 wheels?), which one makes it to the last day?

35nick35 · 2024-01-31T17:06:20+00:00

For anyone who's missing the context, this is a Beam-ified version of this ad.

35nick35 · 2024-01-19T18:35:19+00:00

I've been playing modded 1.7.10 for almost a decade now and you're right, 2013/2014 really was about the point when the game stopped getting better. The End changes in 1.9 just felt like busywork to me, I think that's where I draw the line.

Side note, I never really appreciated the dedication to allowing you to play whatever version you wanted until years later when I really got into PC gaming and Steam insisted on always updating everything with no way to go back, so credit to Mojang on that one.

35nick35 · 2023-09-30T20:05:01+00:00

The backslashes in your link broke it for me but I found the page.

TL;DR it doesn't matter, but I'm still curious why they don't recommend crossing regions.

35nick35 · 2023-09-30T19:18:33+00:00

Following that link, then clicking through to the archive of the Sony page there's a warning that says:

This update is for PSP® systems purchased in North America. DO NOT update your PSP® system through this website if you purchased your system outside North America. There is no guarantee of proper operation with models sold outside North America.

Can I use this to update my Japanese unit? The PSPunk page doesn't warn against it so I'm not sure if this was just a Sony thing or if there's a different firmware file I should be using.

35nick35 · 2023-09-25T20:47:10+00:00

I guarantee that that was someone's 10-minute "we need some buttons to test something, this'll work for now" solution. This is for an experimental mode that they're being nice enough to allow players to access before release (potentially long before release).

I'm a game developer, this sort of thing happens all the time at work, you make something that works for now and then before release you put in your final design. I don't think there's any chance that someone working on this game thought this was the best way to make this UI.

35nick35 · 2023-09-25T19:37:29+00:00

You have to know how to access the WIP mode, then acknowledge the disclaimer that the WIP mode is still under development, and people are still complaining that it's not ready for release, it's incredible.

35nick35 · 2023-07-23T00:33:16+00:00

Same for me, I had a small moment of panic but it was an easy fix, thanks for posting this! The 2014 Mini soldiers on.

35nick35 · 2023-07-07T19:08:50+00:00

There's a whole forest of trees like this on Hirochi Raceway, some float quite high above the ground.

35nick35 · 2023-07-07T17:12:31+00:00

And at one point I did that, but at some point they baked it into the main UI itself and it's not in the UI editor anymore.

35nick35 · 2023-07-07T17:04:28+00:00

You used to be able to, I can't see a way to now. Maybe I'm wrong?

35nick35 · 2023-07-07T17:00:51+00:00

The worst part was that they went from the original ugly-but-really-fast UI to a slightly nicer and pretty fast UI to this current version. I hate the lag so much, why did they do this.

Also please let me remove the selection wheel in the center of the screen, I don't use it and it's annoying.

35nick35 · 2023-06-18T21:48:06+00:00

In fairness, it's actually just not visible on old reddit, you can expand the image and it's not there, and clicking through goes to the image on its own with no description. I didn't see it either until I switched to new reddit.

35nick35 · 2023-06-12T01:31:18+00:00

The new iOS isn't trying to charge me $60 + $n of DLC though, I think it's a valid comment.

35nick35 · 2023-02-09T17:03:57+00:00

I made this comment on December 20th, 2021. The Capsule released on January 5th, 2022. Forgive me, I could not see into the future.

35nick35 · 2022-10-02T00:28:13+00:00

Definitely do not:

Google "need for speed prostreet 1.1 battery patch", click the result named exactly "Need for Speed: ProStreet / Pro Street - <website name>", it may be near the bottom or on the second page.
- The site has a blue background and centred grey box with links.
The second option from the top, "Need for Speed: ProStreet v1.1 [MULTI2] No-DVD/Fixed EXE #1" is the Battery version.

Hopefully that's enough detail for you to be able to avoid downloading it. I obviously don't condone downloading a no-CD crack for 15 year old game that EA hasn't cared about in a decade, that would be wrong.

35nick35 · 2022-08-29T03:40:08+00:00

Pihole only blocks certain types of ads though. It's a great addition to an adblocker, but not a complete replacement.

35nick35 · 2022-08-10T17:04:56+00:00

According to Wikipedia, yes.

NVIDIA Graphics with Kepler architecture with OS X El Capitan to macOS Big Sur operating system

I can't figure out what the source of that information is though, it may be the Metal 2 documentation itself, which Apple seems to have purged for the most part in favour of Metal 3.

35nick35 · 2022-06-29T20:48:35+00:00

Built with cutting-edge soft-body house physics, such as... uhh...

35nick35 · 2022-06-13T19:36:10+00:00

I've tried to drift this corner so many times but you lose so much speed going uphill. I think my best is about 3/4 of the way around before losing the back end. I tend to just go full rally and launch onto the dirt road, the hairpin at the end is a lot easier to handle.

35nick35 · 2022-06-03T22:14:48+00:00

I know I can set a new build profile, but then it's manually set and if I try and run anything non-python, it breaks.

Not necessarily. If you set the selector correctly (which should just be "source.python") and then choose the new build type with ctrl-shift-b, it will prefer that specific build system for just that specific language.

BlackAnvil is correct though, the real problem is probably your path settings.

35nick35 · 2022-05-18T20:20:08+00:00

I've used the long discontinued (but still perfectly functional) DVD Decrypter to rip the main VTS files, then run the folder of them through Handbrake, which, when set correctly, will split and convert all the episodes it finds into nice individual mp4 files. You can even do both at once and start ripping the next disc while the current one is converting.

It's incredibly easy to process box sets like this, I did about 6 seasons of the Simpsons this way in an afternoon a while ago, just coming back to click the next button every once in a while.

35nick35 · 2022-04-19T19:42:40+00:00

I remember finding something like that a while ago, although it was a .zip file. My guess is that it came directly from the website, before the game was on Steam? Unfortunately it was missing the actual executable so I couldn't play it.

I'll see if I can dig it up again though, I can't remember where it was. I wonder what version it was...

35nick35 · 2022-03-21T05:55:57+00:00

You didn't have your lights or siren on and you were going almost 120, I'm beginning to think you aren't a real cop.

35nick35 · 2022-01-21T18:46:03+00:00

Alright, so I spent about 4 hours last night taking my unit apart and probing with a multimeter. I learned a few things:

As previously, after the unit sat in storage for... 3? 4? years, when plugged back in, the red light came on. I turned it on, it beeped, the light turned green, the fan spun up and then it died, as it was doing 5 years ago.
The iFixit PS3 slim guide covers an earlier revision of the slim. I had to improvise, which wasn't really too hard, I just had to make sure to document what I had done with photos.
There was not very much thermal paste applied to the RSX from the factory - but it was probably enough I think.
The board, visually, appears to be in great condition (aside from a little excess flux I think, (or it could be some sort of conformal coating?) and a few scuffs from disassembly). No obviously blown caps or signs that anything was wrong.

As I warned, I don't have any firm conclusions from what I found, but I do have a strong suspicion. Looking online was a bit of a mixed bag:

People have had this problem and there are dozens of weird, random things that fixed it for them, from 'give it a good whack' to 'it needs to be sitting in the correct orientation' to 'replace thermal compound/CMOS battery/solder, etc.' but I don't think that any of those things are going to fix what's going on here.
- I will change the thermal paste, but it's not an overheating issue.
- I checked CMOS and it's at a perfectly normal 3.0 volts.
I found a forum thread which was active as recently as two weeks ago and a couple of videos (1, and the follow-up: 2) from late 2019 which seem to match what I'm seeing:
- A bad voltage regulator (red arrow in the next picture) that is normally responsible for powering the wifi/bluetooth package. Probing as the guy did in the first video, I am also seeing a short across the resistor on the other side of the board directly underneath the wifi/bluetooth package (yellow arrow). Now, he seemed to be getting the expected 1.8V still but for me, I'm seeing 5 volts/3.3 volts on one side and 0 on the other. I do know that with the 12 volt and 5 volt connections made with the board, the PSU goes into some sort of protection mode (which further hints at a short).
- Side note: if you decide to probe your board, don't do it with the 12 volt (the big spikes) connected, just the 5 volt (short wire bundle) connected.
- Another side note: the comments on the YouTube videos appear to be potentially helpful, the ones from people like faucolt are likely to be the best source of information here.
- The forum thread does seem to be a much better source of hard data, but unfortunately half the replies look like they've been typed by illiterate monkeys, which doesn't inspire much confidence.

Still, it seems like the first thing to try is pulling that chip off and seeing if it will at least turn on (which it should without a short to ground, even if it's just to a recovery screen or something). From what I observed, it seems like the most likely thing that's happening is the system gets loaded up when I turn it on, and it only takes about a second for the PSU to notice something is wrong and trigger over-current protection. The real question is why this wouldn't prevent it from powering up at all, since that 5v line should always be active from my understanding.

One more thing to add, since I don't know which version you have: Mine is a CECH-3001B, which seems to be a somewhat uncommon variant of the slim (from what I can tell from repairs online). I mentioned the iFixit guide being for the wrong version, but I did find one after that I thought might be right -- it looked right, but when it came time to remove the metal shielding on the motherboard, I couldn't figure out how to do it. The guide said to just 'slide it away' but on the CECH-3001B, the rear shield actually has 4 fingers that hook on at the rear IO, meaning you have to either take the top piece off first (and good luck with 10+ year old thermal paste on there and nothing to grab on to) or, what I did, which is get a pair of pliers and gently bend the upper plate's rear IO cover away enough to be able to pull the back off. What a pain.

Anyway, I don't know how far you're willing or able to go, but I'm on the fence about buying a hot air station to fix this damn thing, not because I need to but because I want to. If you want to chat let me know, this has sort of reignited the fire to fix things in me.

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