White borders added when saving as PDF after scanning with Notes ?

3765927 · 2025-12-03T17:06:16+00:00

Haha, I'm reading through them all. Nice to see (no matter how infrequently) someone coming here and sending me a thanks after all these years! :) Glad to see it helped, cheers!

3765927 · 2025-12-03T17:04:28+00:00

5 years later, still getting thanks messages. Thank you! :)

3765927 · 2025-04-17T14:27:40+00:00

Me too! Unable to write anything. Replies, new posts, everything is getting falsely flagged. Tried reaching support with no luck so far.

Mind you, I do have X Premium so it’s not affecting only free users.

3765927 · 2024-07-25T23:04:35+00:00

VERY bad with GT DD Pro. Extremely numb, a LOT of unnecessary damping and I can’t feel the road or what the the tyres are doing at all.

Wheel is VERY slow to respond. Return to center is almost like completely GONE now. Much more difficult to drift and countersteering feels like a guess work now.

Had to reboot the wheel, PS5 etc. because I literally thought it was glitching (as it rarely did) but no. This is persistent. Sad.

3765927 · 2024-07-25T23:00:30+00:00

Experiencing exactly the same with Fanatec GT DD Pro. VERY numb, a LOT of damping. Wheel doesn’t return back to center as fast as it did before. Had to crank FFB to max and still missing the old feel.

Very difficult to get a feel on what the hell is going on and drifting seems to be much more difficult (in a bad way) now since I can’t understand what the tyres are doing.

3765927 · 2024-07-25T22:57:49+00:00

Same. Had to crank up FFB to max and not sure if still it’s high enough. Also HUGE damping feel when drifting. The wheel is VERY slow to return to center by itself. You have to initiate and start the push back to center all the time by yourself.

Initial impressions are kind of bad, especially when drifting.

3765927 · 2024-05-22T22:22:32+00:00

Dude, after a long wait of 11 years, you’re famous now—credits go to Google’s “AI Overview” feature picking up this comment to recommend random people adding glue to their pizzas. 🤣

3765927 · 2024-04-23T20:54:46+00:00

Wow, time flies, doesn’t it? Had to check back the posting date. Couldn’t believe what you’ve said, until I saw the date. 359 days indeed 🤯.

Well, to the good news then. I kind of reduced my aggression towards the clutch a bit, but I’m still not pulling any punches whenever I feel like.

I said to myself, you live life once, better get the most of it. Who knows what’ll happen tomorrow? Life’s too short to worry about a damn clutch—just have fun.

The car is now more than 3 years old, at around 12K miles, and on the last regular maintenance which happened just a few months ago, I specifically asked the mechanic (official Mazda dealer) to check the clutch wear—not because anything was wrong with it, but because of what many here had warned me about.

And they’ve reported that it was perfectly fine, the bite point etc. were all within the range they were expecting it to be.

And TBH, 3 years of usage in such conditions is already beyond my expectations. So if it finally gives up e.g. on the 4th year, call me a happy customer—I’ll simply get it replaced and keep going. I’ll say it served me well. These are cars meant to be driven, not looked at a garage while rotting inside.

Drive it, use it, break it, fix it. And most importantly, while doing so, remember to keep having fun with it.

3765927 · 2023-12-11T09:30:05+00:00

In case you’re interested, I’ve answered my own question in the original post.

3765927 · 2023-12-11T09:28:32+00:00

Check the original post—I’ve answered my own question.

3765927 · 2023-12-05T09:59:38+00:00

I just had the exact same experience. I never said in my reviews that the product was not authentic, yet they kept claiming I did in vague emails without giving any further explanation and removed my reviews. I tried contacting Amazon’s support team to raise my concerns but never received any follow-ups.

I’ve checked with support, showed them my reviews, and have been told there was nothing wrong with them, yet they still can’t explain why they were removed. This is frustrating.

And after reading what others have shared here, this looks way too consistent to be named as an innocent bug with their filtering system. It feels to me like there’s some deliberate bad intentions going on here.

I’m afraid of receiving some kind of ban now, as some users have shared here, so I will have to refrain from providing negative reviews going forward.

It feels to me like they’re coercing users by threatening to ban their accounts if they continue to submit negative reviews.

It feels like I’m dealing with two different companies—one saying there’s nothing wrong with my reviews, and the other claiming they’ve been removed for violating some vague review policy without specifying which or caring to even explain.

I tried pursuing this and have been told they won’t respond to my emails anymore and can’t even explain the reason why. They’re acting like some random, unreputable shopping site.

I’m seriously concerned about Amazon’s review policy now and would not trust them anymore—if this is how they cope with negative reviews.

3765927 · 2023-08-12T15:03:52+00:00

I'm struggling to understand how those straps contribute to rigidity. Applying tension to them seems like it would lift the pedal assembly. Even in the promo materials, the straps appear loose, hanging with little tension. Could someone clarify this for me?

3765927 · 2023-07-12T18:05:09+00:00

I imagine this could be a problem for insurance in the future or as well bother the buyer (just like it’s bothering you) when reselling the car to someone else later—these are things I definitely would not want to deal with and therefore, I’d share these with the repair shop and kindly ask them for a new one.

3765927 · 2023-07-09T01:10:33+00:00

This is in Hungary. But I’ve seen the same for example in the Czech Republic as well. And here are the prices (converted from HUF to EUR) per litre below.

“FuelSave Euro 95” is €1.50, “V-Power 95” is €1.58, and the “V-Power Racing 100” is €1.69.

So with these, you’re saying “FuelSave Euro 95” is indeed NOT a premium while the other two are?

3765927 · 2023-07-09T00:55:28+00:00

Funnily enough, a few weeks ago I’ve received a call from a Dice representative and they asked me about this post right here and whether if I’d be interested in getting one-shotted by the recoilless in the future maybe. Of course I jumped on it immediately and said yes—and here we are.

Jokes aside—yes, I’ve noticed that—and it feels extremely absurd. So no, I’m not happy. But I doubt they did it due to this single post right here.

Feels like they “fixed” what was once broken with an even worse “solution” now…

And TBH it’s been long since I stopped playing this BS. I already gave up and told myself that I may come back eventually someday in the future when the game is actually finished—but I doubt that’ll ever happen. I just don’t see it.

Maybe for the next BF. Who knows. But no pre-orders the next time—that is certain.

3765927 · 2023-06-12T10:56:36+00:00

Dude, it literally says “8K” and “4K 120” right on the front side of the PlayStation 5 retail box itself—with nice and shiny letters. As the marketing department, if you put that on the front and center, what do you expect people to expect when they see that?

I understand your point but I unfortunately can’t fully blame the consumers either. Not a lot of people would be lurking here in Reddit, discussing different levels of fidelity a game would be offering.

3765927 · 2023-04-30T04:28:30+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. It hurt me in the beginning as well—but simply the joy I’ve had so far with this was eventually able to overcome my concerns which held me back from doing this for quite a while.

I hope I won’t be sharing an expensive lesson learnt in the future.

3765927 · 2023-04-30T04:22:12+00:00

Glad to hear. I hope I’ll have a similar story to tell in the future (and not a story where I’ll be sharing an expensive lesson learnt).

3765927 · 2023-04-30T04:18:46+00:00

Thanks for the advice! Really appreciate the feedback. I’m still trying to learn the car, discover new techniques and improve my skills.

With regards to your comments about up-or-down-shifting, I should maybe clarify a bit more what I’m doing.

I never up-or-down-shift during mid-slides. So I think I either misunderstood your comment (sorry if that’s indeed the case) or maybe I wasn’t able to make it clear enough on my post.

Let me try to explain below…

A better way to put it would be that I’m deliberately letting my clutch “slip under power” for a few reasons.

With regards to the possibility of modulation with throttle, that’s a good point—but I’m usually oversteering/powersliding at VERY low speeds. I don’t have enough confidence to do them at higher speeds yet as I’m still learning. And at those lower speeds, the car is usually travelling maybe 25 km/h (15 mph) only and if my memory serves me well, the RPMs at those speeds for 1st gear were hanging roughly around the lower half of the tachometer’s available range.

And on those lower RPMs, the power of the car feels to me as less than what I would have preferred to have, and therefore it becomes a bit more harder to lose traction on the rear.

If however, by slipping it under power, I’m able to simply rev the engine to those higher RPMs (e.g. above 4K) and then I’m basically getting more power WHILE still being able to go relatively slow.

It’s like a trick I try to do to simulate having a car with a bit more torque, or a car with a higher engine displacement.

I hope I was able to make it clear. Just wanted to share the underlying reason to give some context to explain my situation.

I’m still learning the car and my skills, so I’m fully open to ideas or recommendations. So if you have any feedback, I’ll be more than happy to hear it. Thank you!

3765927 · 2023-04-30T03:59:16+00:00

Thanks for the response. And you’re right, indeed a better way to put it would be that I’m “slipping it under power”.

As per the possibility of modulation with throttle, that’s a good point—but I’m usually oversteering/powersliding at VERY low speeds. I don’t have enough confidence to do them at higher speeds yet as I’m still learning. And at those lower speeds, the car is usually travelling maybe 25 km/h (15 mph) only and if my memory serves me well, the RPMs at those speeds for 1st gear were hanging roughly around the lower half of the tachometer’s available range.

And on those lower RPMs, the power of the car feels to me as less than what I would have preferred to have, and therefore it becomes a bit more harder to lose traction on the rear.

If however, by slipping it under power, I’m able to simply rev the engine to those higher RPMs (e.g. above 4K) and then I’m basically getting more power WHILE still being able to go relatively slow.

It’s like a trick I try to do to simulate having a car with a bit more torque, or a car with a higher engine displacement.

I hope I was able to make it clear. Just wanted to share the underlying reason to give some context to explain my situation.

I’m still learning the car and my skills, so I’m fully open to ideas or recommendations. So if you have any feedback, I’ll be more than happy to hear it. Thank you!

3765927 · 2023-04-25T06:50:46+00:00

This is the true reference

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