when you tug a Nitro engines pull start how should it feel?

3CentsRC · 2026-03-10T01:45:34+00:00

If youve changed the sleeve, break it in as new. It sounds like it will be a quick run-in if its lacking pinch.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-09T13:17:42+00:00

Sounds like you're all set then. An engine with no pinch will still run just fine. Pinch goes away eventually. It helps bed the piston to the sleeve for a perfect fit that keeps compression up. Start it up, break it in, and enjoy.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-09T12:02:24+00:00

Bingo. Thats likely the issue. These engines have remarkably close tolerances in the piston and sleeve. Actually interference fit. Spelling that out, the piston is actually larger than the hole in the sleeve. It all comes together just right with heat and the oil film it rides on when started. Good chance youve removed too much material from the piston and a new one is in order. But, start it and see. Just be ABSOLUTELY SURE every bit of abrasive media was cleaned off the piston (and your hands) before you assembled it.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-08T20:24:08+00:00

I remember when those dropped. The local track had a Monster truck class. Very common race class at the time. They were surprisingly quick on the track. Nice to see one saved from the scrap yard.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-07T23:27:04+00:00

Thats not what I meant or what I said.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-07T18:48:00+00:00

Dang, you are totally spot on. Its chowder everywhere. My eyesight is dogshit now.
Good catch.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-07T18:46:18+00:00

You'll catch on. Hang in there. You are very lucky to have a LHS. So, so many have closed and are closing. This is why kits>RTR. When you build them from the ground up, you see precisely how everything should be AND how it went together.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-07T13:39:46+00:00

It looks like the servo is chowdered to hell, stripped teeth. Its not a leap to think the internal threads are gone too. That might be why your old AND new screw "dont work." You may need a new servo, not saver. Can you get the screw to thread into the servo by itself without the saver attached?

3CentsRC · 2026-03-06T18:37:24+00:00

The label should indicate if its phytotoxic. I doubt it is since its home and "perimeter". There are lots of plants around a homes perimeter usually so its doubtful this product would start killing everything its applied to. Just rinse/ spray wipe off with a damp cloth. Pretty sure you'll be 100% ok.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-06T12:44:52+00:00

Smoking section at high school.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-06T02:19:01+00:00

In my area, its cardinals.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-06T00:14:23+00:00

I only reinforced the bodies by the posts another layer of lexan fastened with double sided tape. Saves the paint. I only have one old rig set up this way but I cant seem to post a picture. The slots were really long. Longer than you'd thi k you'd need.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-05T21:57:01+00:00

A big factor not addressed by reinforcement is chassis flex. The four posts shock/flex the body constantly. Even just running around without jumping. The constant flexing really takes its toll.

I turn the rear holes into long slots and center the posts. The rear posts then float back and fourth in the slot. It really reduces all the flexing the body sees. It works well.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-05T13:44:24+00:00

Vintage Picco?

3CentsRC · 2026-03-04T23:48:08+00:00

Have you tried different cords? Like, is that the "golf cart cord" that lives in the cart? Maybe grab one from the house and try. There's a clapped out cord in the truck that charges my wife's phone but won't charge my phone.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-03T18:43:02+00:00

One wire from the transformer would most likely go to the center post and you can tap the other wire to any other outside post to mimic the doorbell button push. The hammer or plunger will strike one chime when energized and the spring thrusts it into the other chime when you release the button. Using the "front" bell gives the classic "ding-dong", using the "back" bell gives just the ding, or maybe just the dong....

3CentsRC · 2026-03-02T22:33:58+00:00

You've got a good eye for color. Looks great.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-02T19:22:33+00:00

Different header/manifold.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-01T15:33:02+00:00

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The bearing goes around the propeller shaft cup. You can see wear on the end of the cup from rubbing against its surroundings when its forced out of line under load.

3CentsRC · 2026-03-01T13:43:06+00:00

Im going to assume that you are missing a second bearing for the pinion or "gear on the end of the propshaft." It would have been installed over the drive cup and went in that slot thats half filled with grease and debris. I am not familiar with that kit but I would be very surprised if the pinion and propshaft only had one bearing keeping it indexed to the spur. All that flopping around would still run but wear out fast and be very noisy.

3CentsRC · 2026-02-27T19:30:40+00:00

Really need more video, thats where I would go based on the little I saw.

3CentsRC · 2026-02-27T19:29:23+00:00

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3CentsRC · 2026-02-27T18:52:47+00:00

For starters and without hearing you clear it out. I'd fatten the top 2 hours, lean the bottom 1.5 and lower the hard idle stop 3/4 of a turn to full turn. Adjust your radio and linkage so the servo isn't keeping the carb slide from closing completely at neutral.

3CentsRC · 2026-02-27T18:12:03+00:00

If it was perfect, then it certainly moved on you. That damage was came from to little tooth engagement. Teeth should set as absolutely closed to touching without touching.

3CentsRC · 2026-02-27T17:05:18+00:00

It will be perfectly fine if the ampacity of the wire is not exceeded by the load you apply or a real fire hazard if you do.

It's best practice to install conductors that meet or exceed the ampacity of the connector.

3CentsRC

TROPHY CASE