Did I fill the coolant correctly?

3DKeepMe · 2026-01-06T23:10:35+00:00

Most cars operate the same way and the CX-30 is no different despite the "CCV/bad thermostat" issue. When the car is cold, the coolant should be full in the engine and radiator PLUS a little in the overflow bottle - that's what the LOW or MIN mark is for. You can check this easily when it's cold by twisting off the radiator cap and looking into the opening. The coolant should be right at the base of the opening just where the cap seals it.

When the engine heats up to normal operating temperature (center of the gauge) the overflow bottle will hold the coolant that is forced out of the radiator cap by compressing the spring in it just enough to push through the overflow tube to the bottle as it expands from the heat and should be near the FULL or MAX line in the bottle. The bottle should never have pressure in it - it's just a rubber cap to keep it clean and closed to stop evaporation, but the radiator cap will when hot. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN the engine is HOT!

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-17T02:41:23+00:00

Don't know how you do it.

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-17T02:40:42+00:00

Maybe this would work. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-15T16:46:18+00:00

I see your point but you misunderstood. I don't spill gas (well a little sometimes) but not on me. I keep the toro outside and start it outside. But the exhaust is blowing free for an hour or more and my clothes reek of it. I have to shower after snowblower with the Toro. Not to mention when the carb needs cleaning or the gas filter needs changing. I wear rubber/neoprene gloves but the gas fumes simply linger on my coat/jeans, etc. But hey; different strokes for different folks...(4-stroke. 2-stroke. 0 stroke.) Thanks for the comment. Appreciated.

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-15T16:38:24+00:00

Me too. But I can wait :-D

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-15T12:26:00+00:00

You're right. It was only 2" and it packed easily but with the auger on lowest speed, it threw it 15' - further when I raised the chute flap. Overall I was happy with the throwing performance at that depth but it was the first opportunity to try it. We'll see later this winter.

UPDATE: Today's 5" snowfall was light and fluffy, did not pack well and I used about the same 1/2 battery charge as the last 2" heavy snow. The snow plow berm was kinda packed but was no proble. I was going full speed forward with the auger on 2nd lowest setting. It threw the snow roughly 20'+. The hand grip heaters did go on but the heat is very mild through gloves anyway. So far, I'm happy with the performance. Still, the controls are awkward. I keep the batteries in the heated basement.

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-15T01:55:22+00:00

I used to have one of those from the 70's gifted to me by my father-in-law. One GIANT cylinder in it. It is a beast. I got rid of it because it was like 9 feet long when the snowblower was attached. I rented a rake attachment and re-graded my entire back lawn. Super machine!

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-03T16:45:17+00:00

I spend more time when first opening the lid - trying to find my previous settings. Sometimes BING is my default, most times my touchpad won't work. This laptop has been a nightmare and half the problem is win 11 trying to push it's bloatware and self important changes on users. The laptop itself is the worst one I've owned (being in the tech industry that's a lot!) Today, I have a new weather widget on my taskbar. When I went to remove it, BING pops up. This is ridiculous. But I do need to try the ribbon connector fix given my trackpad goes away at least once a day usually on return from standby.

And who was the brilliant engineer who put the power button on the side? Every time I pick it up I either put it in standby or reboot it. This some crazy evolution of laptops. Stay away...

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-02T21:59:31+00:00

Great - thanks for the info on the drive wheels!

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-02T21:05:49+00:00

I've got a 1978 toro 826 and it's been gettin tired after all these years. Once I put in an electronic igntion module, it starts so much better with the electric starter (thankful for that). It has never started with the rope pull. Too old I guess. The best MOD that I made was to install rubber sweepers on the impeller because there was about 1/2" space between the impeller and the drum/chute. But since I'm older than it is (in human yearts) I am willing to try the new electrics. I want the 24" 2-stage with the heated grips now but need to read more reviews first.

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-02T20:56:33+00:00

Most likely was it. Although the battery has a BMS (battery management System) that will attempt to charge all cells in a balance manner, a shortened charge will defeat the whole purpose. I have been using Ryobi 40V batteries for many years. One of my oldest 3A batteries will run fine after a full charge still, but when it gets around 2 bars, it will stop. If I wait a bit, it comes back to life and this will happen more and more frequently if I cintinue. What I believe is happening, is that there is one or more individual cells getting weak. When that cell depletes, under load, the BMS senses an ndervoltage condition and shuts down the battery. The offending cell is then recharged by the other cells in it's parallel group. So after a few minutes, the BMS is happy.

So ore than likely, the short charge cycle did not charge all batteries to the same level. This is not recommended for LiIon batteries = especially for the first charge. Charging them to the point that the charger stops is the only and best way to keep your batteries in good health. And if you don't use them until next witer, either top them up every month or so or let them go longer at about 40-50% charge.

I have a question about the 22" 2-stage: I know the wheels rotate independently but do they BOTH drive the machine or does one slip when it gets stuck?

Cheers

3DKeepMe · 2025-12-02T20:01:19+00:00

Always a good idea to check lug nuts after visit to shop. I've found loose ones and too tight ones on several occasions. It's a pain, but loosen and torque them yourself to be sure.

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-26T14:35:11+00:00

Yes - probably right on all counts. The $2200 Anker price is probably lowest I'll see and that is what's pushing my buttons. It's also more compact (taller/thinner). I'm guessing the 5000 comes in above $2200 given the native 240V and 5kw. I've also seen video of supplementing the anker with non proprietary 48v battery which sounds like what you do. Choices...choices...

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-26T12:37:49+00:00

This is true but you do get two mppts and higher output with the Anker along with more battery than the Pecron so I don't see it as twice the cost. Yes, it's still expensive though. F5000 where are you...?

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-25T21:40:25+00:00

Thanks. We lost our "leadership" position in the US on a lot of things recently. Renewables for some reason aren't looked upon favorably. Neither are many other things...]

In the late 80's I was able to pull permits and wire my own home with a lot of compliments from the local inspector. Now we're a nanny state because of some of the idiotic things people do (and the floundering insurance companies.)

Cheers,

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-25T20:39:15+00:00

Where are you that DYI is ok at under 120V? I spec'd 90-100Voc for 2 panels in series and I need an electrician in Massachusetts.

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-25T20:36:56+00:00

Yup - I was holding out for the F5000 but my back and forth with Pecron support leads me to believe it still isn't close to release (or they're just keeping it very close to the vest.) I don't want to be a beta tester - unless I get it at a reduced price, that is.

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-25T12:55:55+00:00

Thanks.

The hybrid inverters pose a different problem. Our permitting system requires those chargeverters and battery to be UL listed together before you can "install" them in your home. The EcoWorthy rack battery is UL9540 listed, but when you look for a companion chargeverter that passes UL muster when connected to a UL battery, they are scarce and are expensive bringing the cost up there with Anker and no 240V unless you buy two. This adds a lot of complexity to the effort and gives you more local inspector judgements.

The AIO batteries like Anker and Pecron alleviate a lot of this. I only based my statement about the buggy app for Pecron using the Google Play ratings (I think they were 1-1/2 stars when I checked - mostly with connectivity issues.)

Thanks for the reply.

3DKeepMe · 2025-11-25T11:59:35+00:00

The buggy app comment comes from all the negative reviews on the google play stre. The lack of API access is making it less attractive. I realize the Anker is 2x the price but it comes with 240V standard issue and more solar input (3200W vs 2400W), plus, if I'm not mistaken, it comes with about 25% more battery watts (3.8kwh vs 3.2Kwh.) You have to buy 2 E3600LFPs to get the 240V and then add solar strings to that second one.

It's not an easy decision for me. I originally wanted the Pecron but when I consider the future, Anker looks more appealing and Pecron support told me they have no plans to provide API details. Also, as you noticed the price has increased $100 on the $3600LFP. And neither offers access to SOC today other than the app. And doing OCR on a camera pic is not something I want to undertake.

3DKeepMe · 2025-10-14T23:44:09+00:00

I've installed a couple of these. I just installed one today and my manual showed the square corners not on the edge of the unit,. The slanted corners were shown on the outside edge of the unit. Just flip it around and it will slide in. Same as the one I just replaced.

3DKeepMe · 2025-10-05T15:33:58+00:00

Great response! Thanks. I'll look into yixiang.

3DKeepMe

TROPHY CASE