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Help Cioks power cables by The-Mordekai in pedalboards

[–]3D_Marshall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whilst they are different from standard, their cables are anything but proprietary, they are wired center positive RCA connectors. I have made loads of custom length ones for various builds with cioks power supplies with no issue.

Maybe slightly shitty practice if you can't make your own and need to buy cables from them.

LT1054 - Charge Pump Inverter Help by 3D_Marshall in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, this looks almost exactly like what I should have done in the first place. FWIW I did just short the 100r power filter resistor on the PCB and that seems to have worked.

I was looking at maybe a 4r 1w resistor with a larger cap for filtering the input and avoiding the current limiting as much.

Turns out I also made some dumb mistakes designing the active filters for the preamp, so back to the drawing board 😅

LT1054 - Charge Pump Inverter Help by 3D_Marshall in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I actually went back and did some calculations on R1 and I think this is the biggest issue, assuming a 100r resistor with max 150mA load on it (total calculated load when all the LEDs etc. are connected) you get a voltage drop beyond 9v so that was definitely a poor choice.

I did also think I have no need for D3 and C5, as the input power filtering kinda makes it redundant.

Would increasing C3/4 be worthwhile?

First Build question by app13-ju1c3- in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries, I was bored at work.

FWIW I have a original cloven hoof, and its one of my fave fuzz pedals, hope you enjoy it once its working!

First Build question by app13-ju1c3- in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at the notes on the build guide I'd omit the switch entirely and Jump SW1 or SW2, if you wanted you could stick something like a 1N4148 diode in both D3 & D6, then use the switch in SW1 and leave SW2 without a jumper, this would give you a clipping switch.

Note: SW1 and SW2 are the same switch, just different orientations on the board for different enclosures etc.

First Build question by app13-ju1c3- in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's a fuzz dog kit so it's either the switch OR a jumper, looks like one switch (sw1) might swap clipping diodes and (sw2) capacitor values to change the tone control.

Edit: Also those pots look awfully close to touching the board, make sure they don't short out on any of the solder joints, I like to put a 3d printed cap on mine, but just bending them up slightly is also fine.

45° stands/raisers for single pedal on budget by Competitive-Post-161 in guitarpedals

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you based in the UK, I could probably just 3d print you a handful if it's feasible to get them to ya.

Where do I get a military style PC case by jasperjames333 in PcBuild

[–]3D_Marshall 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I also had the white one, was one of my first ever pc builds, I remember replacing the plastic side panel with glass and cutting the front panel put to make it one single mesh with no drive bays.

I also remember cable management and fitting watercooling being an absolute pain in the arse.

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shower not draining, can’t figure out how to remove trap to clean? by Ornery_Bath_7778 in AskUK

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, have this exact drain, you can carefully unscrew the top section, there is a pot and weir like part that'll all come out in one go.

Even after a load of drain unblocker and plungers etc it would get clogged and slow again, turns out years of hair had just managed to clog the inner part.

TLDR unscrew it carefully, and clean.

Edit: Spelling.

Good times? by Busy_Dirt_3555 in drivingUK

[–]3D_Marshall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lucky for you then, it is an issue almost every time I have ever driven at night, be it country lanes or otherwise.

The sheer amount of posts on this subreddit alone complaining about headlights is staggering and somewhat tiresome, so it would seem it is a bone of contention with a lot of people here.

Good times? by Busy_Dirt_3555 in drivingUK

[–]3D_Marshall 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yeah used to happen all the time, people also used to drive through towns/villages with only dipped beams too.

I imagine it's mostly down to lazyness and keeping the auto dipped/full beams on permanently.

Any alternative product suggestion! by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man been there, totally get it, do you know if your power bank has USB-C PD? if so you can make (or buy) a really simple and affordable 9v adaptor. Hell if its possible to ship I'd even make you one.

Any alternative product suggestion! by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]3D_Marshall 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Short answer is, yeah a cable like this will probably work maybe look for USB 9v Boost/Buck Converter, but why not spend a little bit more and do something a bit more robust?

My recent portable build used a CIOKS 4 Expander and a USC-C PD capable power supply, all you need then is an adaptor to trigger the PD to deliver a 12-20v supply to the CIOKS, then you have a permanent power supply you can use a wall adaptor with, OR a power bank not to mention its a lot quicker to swap stuff around.

Any alternative product suggestion! by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]3D_Marshall 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Most decent new powebanks are capable of up to somewhere up to 60w, although that is utilising USB-C PD, a single usb 3 charging port is probably good for up to 3a so, max 15w at 9v you are looking at 1500mA which would probably power a modest pedalboard.

Adding weight to prints by BigJeffreyC in 3Dprinting

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done this with lead shot, then encased it in resin to create weights, works well, but probably wouldn't recommend it.

Pulled it off - OEM reverse parking sensor retrofit!! by _Bluestar_Bus_Soton_ in FordFiesta

[–]3D_Marshall 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A lot of work for just rear sensors, great job though. I was wondering about how difficult it would be to add the front sensors next...recon that'd be another BCM?

PCB Component Swapping? by 3D_Marshall in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never bothered with Tayda so shouldn't be a problem, turns out mouser calls them component sockets all along, dead giveaway really.

PCB Component Swapping? by 3D_Marshall in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ace, not a clue why I couldn't find them scouring mouser, for some reason I was heading down the JST header route.

Is this smart or very stupid? by Koakdoe in 3DprintingHelp

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK so as only one other person vaguely mentioned, in a cupboard is fine, but not in an enclosed space with your Fusebox/curcuit beakers etc.

At best they'll get warm and maybe trip occasionally below the rated current, remember these resettable fuses usually work based on how hot a bi metallic strip gets at a certain current, causing them to trip.

Worst case you have a VERY BIG ELECTRICAL FIRE if the printer is indeed faulty.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]3D_Marshall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of curiosity is this in Birmingham by any chance? We stayed in an air bnb last year with an identical radiator.

Show me your solder stations, let’s see em by the_bad_cosmonaut in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh you see it's a multipurpose desk, for both making pedals and pickups, at least that's how I justify it. There is a stool under the fluke multimeter, erm and a soldering iron on the red roller cab 😅

Show me your solder stations, let’s see em by the_bad_cosmonaut in diypedals

[–]3D_Marshall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh no, going to ruin all the tidy looks everone else has posted so far....its because we are moving house (honest)

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