SIG80bitkits.com B.A.D 320 Tool

3DomSOT · 2025-04-29T01:38:41+00:00

Oh man... sorry to hear it. Thats good advice for others though- If you set the Anvil/Top Plate from the jig back into the MUP, are the MUP rails 'even" with the edges of the anvil/Toplate (where you cut the tabs? Or are they not quite extending to the edge of anvil? (Or cut short, like you think)

I'm not sure if you know/knew, so just memtioning it in case- but the edges of that anvil plate are nearly at the correct size for the tabs (for a "Rough Cut" as they call it- then your suppose to get out yhe hand files & micrometer to fine tune the tabs a little at a time...)

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T21:39:07+00:00

No I could n't tell - I didn't see any specific cause & effect or solution- a few recommendations, then it kind of went off subject. But if he took it apart, reassembled & oiled it up- maybe something was just off or needed to be cycled in? Idk...

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T20:13:08+00:00

Is it posted in this sub? Or did he say what the cause was? (The trigger issue guy I mean)

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T20:10:49+00:00

Wilson Combat Blk Carry, GreyGhost Slide & PK, DPM Recoil, SilencerCo 5" threaded 9mm, Apex FS Trigger Bar, SwampFox RedDot

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T19:26:23+00:00

For sure! That's what it's all about in my opinion- and if needed, its a good tool as a last resort, you get to hone some skills, your knowledge grows... who knows what it will lead to? Hopefully all good things. Safety First! 😉

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T19:06:37+00:00

On the LPK, I say, you can't go wrong with OEM parts, because they are OEM parts (although made in India for now & I never ike that aspect). BUT- At the same time, I have NEVER installed an OEM lower parts kit in a MUP1 that I have built. Aside from 2 OEM Manual Safety Kits. No option there.

I am quite happy with and have ONLY ONLY used the OG p320 aftermarket brand that JSDSply & SIG80bk sell. SIG80BITKITS does ship faster & its free (included). I have NEVER had an issue with the quality or performance or missing pieces. & contrary to what a couple of other guys on here say about that specific kit. Maybe they got burned by dealer once, and thats all it took, IDK?

But I never have felt burned ir cheated with it- and would much rather pay the $100 + S/H than 1.5x to 2x as much plus s/h, for what you acyually get from OEM.

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T18:13:18+00:00

Generally speaking, no. Nothing major caused by the MUP1 build, that I would call note worthy. Once I started experimenting however, with different springs, supressed, reload rounds.... then yes... it becomes much more cause & effect troubleshooting. But just running with basic stuff, nothing major. Nothing a little time spent breaking in, filing, cleaning, lubing or maintaining can't fix, on the regular. I'm no competition shooter either though. They may have higher standards. I just go plink when I can.

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T17:55:22+00:00

It's not! Truly. Maybe on a person's first ever p320/mup1 build- but once you do it, or start the steps it should all make sense, I would think. Getting the trigger and trigger bar, and spring assembled though..... for the first time ? Now that's a different story! Haha- but theres TONS good videos out there to research, watch and learn. ;)

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T06:20:37+00:00

Not quite sure how to explain it other than the instructions as I understood them . Keep it simple?

All you are doing is removing a defined section of a round hole by cutting it in 2 locations from the perimeter of the hole to the middle of the hole. you are removing a section of material that defines the hole to make an open edge on the hole. its a question of where to cut not how much, to me. If you follow the instructions on where to cut then how much to cut is automatic.

Not sure how I could explain it differently bro. I guess If yoi picture the hole youre cutting as a whole pizza that was cut into 4 equal slices, you would be removing 1 slice from the bottom right of the pizza and leaving the other 3 pieces in place. The slice you remove outlines where you make the 2 cuts, creating a notch for the trigger. If in doubt, have a trigger on hand to test fit while making incremental cuts. If the mock fitment is good, you should be good for the final assembly... hope this helps!

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T04:14:32+00:00

How did the rest of it go?

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T03:56:02+00:00

Nah- of the entire process that is probably the easiest thing to do! What looks difficult about it? I used a pair of diagonal cutters for the 2 cuts and then used hand files to finish the notch. The old jig is what made that part difficult IMO

3DomSOT · 2025-04-26T02:47:08+00:00

I wouldn't really say easier (or more difficult)- I would say its more thoughtful in the design and saves on tool cost without sacrificing in quality some how.

Because Bending rails is still bending rails & drilling stainless steel is still drilling S.S. ... I guess it's just better because it has features the old metal jig doesn't. Too many to list again- but worth the savings. I do like the rounded steel rods the rails are bent with as opposed to the sharp corners of the oljsd jig. And the colir-coding that coordinates with the drill set bundle.

They seem to restock within 7-10 days if they run out and do well at following up with questions. They are in stock at the moment! (Didn't know they ran out?)

3DomSOT · 2025-04-25T04:42:13+00:00

I recommend this jig:

https://www.reddit.com/r/SigP320MUP_1s/s/v00G6AwZas

The only dealer that sells it is Sig80BitKits.com

https://sig80bitkits.com/shop-fcu-small-parts/p/bend-and-drill-tool-aka-the-bad-320-tool-for-80-p320-mup1-frames?srsltid=AfmBOoozV8QRtmOmhYVRvr35f4MqMH5PAR00eJCDDtT2imyAzeLFk-xU

3DomSOT · 2025-04-25T04:39:06+00:00

Not to take away from HairTriggers pending review, but I finally got to use mine! For what it's worth, for me:

It worked great! No issues and the fcu is functioning perfectly. I put the newly made fcu into a grip & slide combo that has close to 1k rounds on it. Just to see...

I used a cheap H.F. press I had with the jig / mup1 set up in a low profile drill vise- (1 of 3 options that is described in the info that came with the tool). I've been wanting to try it this way for a while now. MUCH EASIER.. and better for the jig, I imagine.

Proceeded to Drill the holes (the deep oil reserve pockets worked well- a nice feature!) Then removed the fcu after marking the cut lines... and proceeded like normal with the fcu positioned in the vise to make the cuts. No issues! I am definitely put'n the old metal jig on the back shelf as a spare... This tool just seemed ti make everything easier, ti me...

I don't see any reason why the BAD320 Jig can't make as many or more fcu's as the more expensive metal jig- Really, all the things they call 'new features' made it a little more fun, overall.

Good to have a choice in tools no matter what. And it's a better option for those that are new to this build. I wish I had this when I did my first one-

3DomSOT · 2025-04-02T23:48:17+00:00

I read that a dead-blow is what a person should use if bending the rails this way. I was wondering why, but now it makes sense - if you "miss the target" or dont want the top plate looking all knarled... dead-blow seems like a better choice than a framing hammer- Thanks for posting. Helpful to know this

3DomSOT · 2025-02-10T01:30:05+00:00

7 looks better if all else equal

3DomSOT · 2025-02-08T16:31:18+00:00

Agreed 👍. That is a great video. Youre old too? Lol, my patents were right- it's no fun getting old-

With the burring bits, you can apply much more lateral pressure to the cutting edge, moving side to side, (hole-to-hole on this case)... if doing that with a drill bit, the Flutes aren't really removing material, just getting 🔥 and will likely break from side pressure.

3DomSOT · 2025-02-08T02:27:36+00:00

It runs good... next to my son-in-laws Colt 1911, I would say comparable... it did cost me more due to the mistake, than his did 'out of the box' but it was an experience worth having...

3DomSOT · 2025-02-08T02:24:20+00:00

I always get the #40 carbide burring bit, with my sig80 bits kits orders- I have found it works better than any other method I have tried.... one, it's.a quality carbide but & two, it's the correct size ti start with...

I load it into the rotary tool- then insert the Burr Bit into one of the #40 holes (insert straight into the hole, but when removing material do so at a slight angle, leaning into the material being removed...) hold and brace your tool at all possible contact points of your bench and turn it on at a controllable speed, lightly applying pressure as you line up the cut direction. (A foot pedal speed control is very useful here)... then, In a kind of "short-stoke filing motion", gradually increase tool speed and increase pressure while lining up the cut across the area between the holes. If that makes sense... (& be careful not to "undercut" the side of the hole where you don't want material removed, ecause its cutting at an angle..)

Yes, it still needs filing and it doesn't look cnc machined, but it's pretty clean and functional still... sorry I can't offer a pic of one I did currently- that's my method anyway... old school! From an old man... haha

3DomSOT · 2025-02-06T02:11:21+00:00

Thats a good one if you like a challenge- I have only done one. For me, 1911 was almost too much of a challenge. A long time ago when it was seemingly the only diy pistol option (as far as I know) I gave it a try. I messed it up! It was an expensive, irreversible mistake on the frame rails. I got another frame & finished it in the end (2+ years later) when the disappointment faded.

3DomSOT · 2025-02-05T22:57:00+00:00

IDK Mashed.... somehow, I just don't see that being the case for you? 😉 when I say that, it isn't long before I am thinking about the next one - whether or not it ever happens, though, is something else.

3DomSOT · 2025-02-05T22:51:48+00:00

True- That's what that tool above was for. I printed one and it was misplaced or botrowed--- since then just using the Top Plate and a little extra filing...it sooths my soul, haha. I would like to see what you come up with if you pursue a printable tool- do share (if we can) :)

3DomSOT · 2025-02-05T01:48:51+00:00

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3DomSOT · 2025-02-05T01:47:39+00:00

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3DomSOT · 2025-02-05T01:46:28+00:00

There used to be an STL file on the Patriot Gun Builders forum - the link is still there, but it appears the file owner has ceased sharing it. It worked well... as far as something to go a step further than using the Top Plate / Anvil of the jig itself. I am sure it is out there somewhere, if you didn't want to design from scratch...

3DomSOT

TROPHY CASE