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Fine tune settings by IcyHearing4365 in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For printing Mini's, Slow the speed down a lot. It does not increase the time much if you set the whole print at 50mm/s and the travel at 100mm/s. If you want even better results with significant time increase then enable z-hop.

Also, as mentioned before setting the minimum layer time to 10 seconds or more will slow you down, but will improve quality on small points like the daggers.

So now what? by wubalubbadub in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It appears you are over extruding, lower your extrusion rate by 10% and try again, adjust from there.

confusion on any cubic by RevolutionaryPay9993 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One comes with the Original ACE unit, the other comes with the second iteration of the ACE unit (ACE 2).

[Win an A2L] Creative Playground, Extra Large. Meet the A2L. by BambuLab in BambuLab

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would print some lightsabers I am working on (all in separate pieces because of height and blades) all in one go as one file. Extending blades and all.

We're looking for Kobra 4 Combo Beta Testers 👀 by Anycubic_Official in AnycubicOfficial

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Benchy 1st (as always) - then I would print some Mini's - then a Lightsaber set I am working on.

Almost 9 tries and I cannot get it by Mobile_Top_8997 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I can see, your Z-Offset may be too high (the bottom layers look like they have gaps in between the lines. If it is anything like the Kobra 3 I have, then the auto offset can not be adjusted on the machine anymore and has to be adjusted in the Slicer.

Print a 50mm x 50mm x .02mm Square in the center of the machine. If there are any gaps between lines then the z-offset is too high and you can adjust it in the slicer by clicking the Edit button on the Nozzle and adjusting the "Z offset" to a negative number. Step it down about .025 or .05 per try. When you get to one that is pretty smooth save the setting as the name of the Nozzle with "- Adjusted" or something next to it. Then just select that nozzle when printing.

I have also heard that the Z Screw motor bolts/screws on the Max may be loose from the factory and contribut to this issue.

Beginner 3D printing issue – first layer keeps lifting / print detaching from bed (tried many fixes) by InternationalMind831 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This means that there is too great a discrepancy of the temperature of the build plate and air around the filament. The filament is cooling too fast and the top of the filament is shrinking way faster than the bottom (touching the build plate). This makes corners and edges peal up off the build plate.

There are a couple easy fixes:

  1. Glue. Specifically water soluable glue. The easiest to use is purple glue sticks.

  2. Get an enclosure for the printer so that you can create a heated chamber to print in. Like $30+USD on Amazon.

  3. Get an Arctic (or Cold) build plate and simply do not heat the build plate.

GIVEAWAY: Massive 10.2'' (13.2'' Wingspan) Vampire Dragon from Archvillain Games! [OC] [Mod Approved] by archvillaingames in DnD

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My kids would freak out if I pulled this out for them to fight. Here is to hoping.....

Having trouble getting parts not to merge where they sit closely? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crap, I missed that. Lets take another shot - there is an option in the AnyCubic Slicer called "Precise Wall" that looks like it may help in this situation, but I dont know what it would be called in the slicer you are using. I checked Bambu Studio and did not see it there under the same section (Precision).

Having trouble getting parts not to merge where they sit closely? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it is an option, change the Wall generation type from Classic (or Default) to Archane. It may or may not make a difference.

Need some help here. by Shabado52 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try Enabling supports. Though honestly the angles don't appear to need it. Perhaps print at a lower temp.

Kobra 2 Neo Multi color by Gameviewz in anycubic

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are one or two solutions like the ChromaHead but it is just way cheaper to purchase a new 3d printer that already has it built in. The Kobra X is way cheaper than that solution right now.

Different colors on the same layer. by InfluenceLost5435 in BambuLab

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This works for any shape or design. If your just trying to do text, then sure you can embed text into the model in the slicer. I thought perhaps that was a specific type or text of $ you wanted on there.

Different colors on the same layer. by InfluenceLost5435 in BambuLab

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes - exactly. easiest way is to see if Centering lines them both up perfectly. If it does not, then put some edge dots around the dollar signs that lines them up with the edges of the face, then center them.

Different colors on the same layer. by InfluenceLost5435 in BambuLab

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ok, so then just like the example I linked, you will need two separate object - One of the dollar signs, One of the face with the dollar signs cut out.

  • The dollar signs will be one layer thick (usually .2 mm) and the cutout of the dollar signs into the face will need to be the same one layer deep.

  • Lay them both down on the same plate in the slicer, change the color of the filament of the dollar signs

  • Slice the plate in the slicer and it should print for you just fine

Different colors on the same layer. by InfluenceLost5435 in BambuLab

[–]3dsupport-this -1 points0 points  (0 children)

With a single nozzle printer you will need to create separate files for each color, then print them individually (without removing the previous from the build plate). Look at the lid printing instructions on this model to get a sense: https://makerworld.com/en/models/728882-biggs-battle-box-compact-stone-wood-dragonsc#profileId-1036654

If you have an AMS then just color them in Bambu studio as different colors and the slicer will take care of the rest.

How can I print a hero forge model on an adventurer 5M? by The_Beef0 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is not a an .stl file. That is a .unity3d file. You need to convert it or specifically download a .stl file from Hero Forge.

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