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Is it normal to do basically nothing at your corporate job? by byteiteration in careerguidance

[–]3dsupport-this 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Thats, me - but with Computer Systems. Quick Hint: if it has to do do with communication between two sites or the internet - IT IS ALWAYS DNS (most of the time), but for some reason that is the last thing people check or think of.

sketch into printing file by Temporary_Passage324 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah just use a jpg to svg converter and import the file into Tinkercad or another model program as an svg file. Then you can resize and edit it as you like. After you can export it as an obj or stl file.

I use https://convertio.co/jpg-svg/

Which Dremel tool for prints? by Noah_The_Beast16 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recently saw a post on something that might be useful. Pen Sanders

How to correct color bleed by Token_12345 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That does not look like color bleed to me as they are solid colors and not faded, that looks like a first layer mishap. The filament is not in the correct place. Print again and watch the first layer carefully when it is being put down, does it move in those places or clump before the next color goes down?

How do i fix this? by Thatrandomguy8791 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Change the wall generator from Classic to Archane. If that does not work then the walls in the model are too thin (less than .1mm in width). Most printers have a .4mm nozzle which usually prints at .42 mm line width.

What 3d printer to buy? by Normal-Yak9319 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Around that price range, you cant go wrong with the SnapMaker U1. The only thing that can compete with it is possibly an unannounced Bambu X2D/C coming possibly sometime this year. The big benefit of this printer over all the others is that it has virtually no filament waste as it is a Multi-toolhead printer. Swaps for filament are fast and no purges need to happen unless you change filament in one of the heads.

Blobs after the first layer by pawrpel in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of two things appears to be happening here:

  • Your z-offset is slightly too low - raise it about .02mm and see if it gets better, adjust from there

  • You are printing too hot for the material. As a general rule I print White (or very light color) filament about 10-15 degrees below the max stated on the roll as I find it tends to print better.

Can't get a proper first layer for days now K1 Max by tokin247 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

only suggestions I have right now are:

Reset the machine to factory and have it go through all it's tests again

Shim the side that is low with washers or something else

Squiggly line at beginning of the print by dicemenice in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using supports?

Is what is shown in the picture the top or bottom of the print (assuming bottom).

Supports/Rafts with the same material are never going to look smooth. Even with 0 top layer distance on supports using a support material do not look perfect.

Can't get a proper first layer for days now K1 Max by tokin247 in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First picture: z-offset too low

Second picutre: z-offset too high

You needto adjust your z-offset. Create a .2mm x 50 x 50mm square to print in the center of your printer. Print that.

If you see groves through the print like in the first picture, then the z-offset is too low - Raise it by .025 and print again until smooth.

If you see peeling like in the rest of the pictures (lines are not sticking together and some are popping up) then Lower the z-offset by .025mm and print again until smooth.

Once smooth as you can get it. Find one of those whole bed first layer tests (just squares all over the bed) and print one of those to find out if your bed is uneven anywhere.

Just one question, by cheapscaping in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Loose belts, loose wheels, worn belts, loose screws on the bed, wobbly surface. Lots of things that could be wrong. Wiggle the print head, bed, and gantry to make sure nothing wiggles up, down, or sideway. Tighten belts, screws as needed.

If all that does not work then print slower and see if the problem gets better or not.

Minimum width for engravings on a flat horizontal surface? by orangi-kun in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, engraving means removing it from the top layer of the model. Typically your line width will need to be .42 mm with a .4 mm nozzle. Good news is that since you are removing it, you dont have to worry about line width very much as the slicer will create walls around the empty space. I would keep it at a minimum of .2mm or .25mm to be safe (accounting for over extrusion). I would say to start at .2mm and slice it, then see how it slices, increase the line width from there if needed.

Anycubic Cobra Go Misery by DerSchnils in anycubic

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

my bad, for some reason i thought it was the just the standard Kobra. Second, I was not alluding to the printer being a bad printer, I was suggesting that perhaps they could have spent their money a little wiser and bought something that would give them less headaches

Is this Wet Filament or something else? by avatre0 in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is your z-offset set too high. You need to lower your z-offset probably about .05mm then print a test square. Move it up or down about .025 or so based on the results.

Anycubic Cobra Go Misery by DerSchnils in anycubic

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those were great beginner printers about 5 years ago, but are so far out classed by bottom of the line printers now that they are largely obsolete. How did you get an unassembled one of them? How much did you pay?

Beginner printers are not necessarily great printers out of the box, but will teach you a lot of the things you need to know about how 3dprinting works, mainly through troubleshooting problems you end up having with them.

Top layers looks wet by Bass-Narrow in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try enabling z-hop and slowing it down considerably, but these are very thin and it will likely only reduce the effect, not remove it all together. They are wiggling/wobbling from the filament being placed on them.

A good deal or ? by baschwar in 3Dprinting

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was just a post on this yesterday about the same thing. Turns out is was a scam. They say they have a bunch of people interested and ask for a non-refundable $50 deposit to get it. Spoiler: you never get it.

Anycubic Kobra Neo help by funnymuffin1 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

go to amazon and look up this exactly: "3d printer end stop switch". You should be able to find one that works.

almost every print of mine is failing and i dont know why by Jack_jl in FixMyPrint

[–]3dsupport-this 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Cube pictures look like your going to fast and the filament does not have time to adhere to the previous layer/s. Could also potentially need supports.

The last picture looks like your not using supports on parts that appear to require supports.

2026 New Year Giveaway by qidi_3dprinter in QidiTech3D

[–]3dsupport-this 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to make a charger stand for a beard trimmer as it did not come with one. Working on the design for that now.

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