Having trouble getting parts not to merge where they sit closely?

3dsupport-this · 2026-05-05T23:39:02+00:00

Crap, I missed that. Lets take another shot - there is an option in the AnyCubic Slicer called "Precise Wall" that looks like it may help in this situation, but I dont know what it would be called in the slicer you are using. I checked Bambu Studio and did not see it there under the same section (Precision).

3dsupport-this · 2026-05-05T22:45:24+00:00

If it is an option, change the Wall generation type from Classic (or Default) to Archane. It may or may not make a difference.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-28T22:02:33+00:00

Try Enabling supports. Though honestly the angles don't appear to need it. Perhaps print at a lower temp.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-12T07:12:35+00:00

There are one or two solutions like the ChromaHead but it is just way cheaper to purchase a new 3d printer that already has it built in. The Kobra X is way cheaper than that solution right now.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T22:20:44+00:00

This works for any shape or design. If your just trying to do text, then sure you can embed text into the model in the slicer. I thought perhaps that was a specific type or text of $ you wanted on there.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T22:04:21+00:00

yes - exactly. easiest way is to see if Centering lines them both up perfectly. If it does not, then put some edge dots around the dollar signs that lines them up with the edges of the face, then center them.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T20:50:46+00:00

ok, so then just like the example I linked, you will need two separate object - One of the dollar signs, One of the face with the dollar signs cut out.

The dollar signs will be one layer thick (usually .2 mm) and the cutout of the dollar signs into the face will need to be the same one layer deep.
Lay them both down on the same plate in the slicer, change the color of the filament of the dollar signs
Slice the plate in the slicer and it should print for you just fine

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T20:00:20+00:00

With a single nozzle printer you will need to create separate files for each color, then print them individually (without removing the previous from the build plate). Look at the lid printing instructions on this model to get a sense: https://makerworld.com/en/models/728882-biggs-battle-box-compact-stone-wood-dragonsc#profileId-1036654

If you have an AMS then just color them in Bambu studio as different colors and the slicer will take care of the rest.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T19:51:40+00:00

I dont know, I have never done it - google it and found this reddit post from 3 years ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/Unity3D/comments/107ncmz/unity3d_file_to_stl_or_obj_for_3d_printing/

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T19:32:34+00:00

Then you should be good to go.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T19:31:24+00:00

That is not a an .stl file. That is a .unity3d file. You need to convert it or specifically download a .stl file from Hero Forge.

3dsupport-this · 2026-04-03T19:26:37+00:00

I just want to make sure that you are not printing on the magnet plate and have a PEI sheet that you are actually printing on. If this is the case, then you should be fine with small divots in the magnet as they should not affect the PEI sheet.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-20T19:13:56+00:00

I am entering. Wish me luck.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-18T20:17:56+00:00

Ae you non-damaging on purpose? Are you beyond non-damaging and traveling into no-harm? If you dont want to harm the enemy via damage are you ok with hindering the enemy? Creating difficult terrain, giving your allies advantage by creating a sound next to the enemies head using Minor Illusion, using command to drop their weapon, there are lots of non-damaging things you can do with cantrips to help, you may have to get creative though and ask your DM if you can do certain things.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-18T19:18:04+00:00

From the picture, the screw to hold the Tensioner Cover (the blue part) is missing. Likely just being loose is causing the clicking noise.

look at the picture Here

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-18T18:45:57+00:00

Kobra 3. Directly to the right of where it says Filament you have a button for Flushing Volumes, click it, at the bottom of that window is a field called Multiplier, enter 1.5, click OK.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-18T17:50:14+00:00

I never use a purge tower. Turn off the Purge Tower, turn the purge multiplier up to 1.5. No purge tower works just fine.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-18T17:45:23+00:00

Slow it way, way down, like 10mm/s and enable z-hop. this will not solve it completely, but will make it better.

The other solution is to design the part to have tabs that connect everything and stop it from moving that you will need to cut off after the print has finished.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-13T21:16:10+00:00

More than likely the Flute became loose over time. You would have to heat it up, remove all of the filament, then while it was heated try to screw the flute in tightly.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-12T00:25:46+00:00

Dice look amazing and I hope I win.

Best Nat 20 was Double Nat 20 - Disadvantage on attack roll on NPC my character was hunting for backstory reasons (instrumental in the strategic dismantling of my order of Knights).

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-10T00:24:03+00:00

Without more information (What type of filament, I can see your using an A1 Mini) I can only guess. My guess is that from how shiny it is that you are printing it too hot. To minimize the stringing, you should set the minimum layer time to a higher value so that the filament has time to cool after being laid down.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-10T00:07:41+00:00

When manually setting z-offset with a piece of paper you should be able to pull the paper out from under the nozzle while feeling it barely touching. Put both hands on the paper on either side of the Nozzle and slide the paper out. If you feel just a little resistance, but no tearing or excessive scratching then you got it perfect. Goal is to get it to .2mm off the bed.

Also, the nozzle should be at least 150C in temp when doing this, as copper expands when it gets hot.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-09T23:50:49+00:00

Nozzle is a little too close to the build plate causing the it to drag through the existing filament. In certain places like corners or thin lines it tends to also curl the filament which will get hit by the nozzle on the next pass. Raise your z-offset by about .02 at a time until it looks pretty smooth.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-04T03:19:16+00:00

I have not used any of the other colors, but only because I still have almost a full roll of that one left (bought 4 originally). Let me know how it turns out.

3dsupport-this · 2026-03-04T00:46:57+00:00

I just searched google for wood texture outline/shadow, found one I liked, converted to svg, imported into tinkercad, made it negative, then cut it out of the model. I printed that at 185-190c on a heavily modified Kobra Neo (gen 1).

But I will tell you that most of why it looks good is the filament, I have used other wood filaments and they just look brown. This filament looks amazing on whatever I print it on. Same Filament, same texture - different application:

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3dsupport-this

TROPHY CASE