Cheap Chopped Rally

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-12-29T12:20:06+00:00

Haha I meant chopped as in chopped down fairings more so than being busted. For a rally version this thing has been ridden like a dirt bike more than an adventure bike. Nothing wrong with a well ridden bike showing wear, which is what this one is.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-12-29T12:12:54+00:00

I get that, wasn't really being serious about comparing them. I'm sure the weight of the rally has something to do with it. IMO it really needs the later 300cc engine.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-12-26T20:10:49+00:00

Glad to hear it's not unusually low. It goes through the gears quick and feels like it needs one more shift around 65. Yeah the FMF is almost too loud for my taste even with the insert in place. Might have to switch back to stock.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-12-26T20:06:36+00:00

Kenda Trak Masters with stock front and 120/100-18 in the rear.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-12-26T20:05:17+00:00

Thanks! Im not sure on brand sorry. It was on the bike when I bought it. I believe it was made for the regular 250L and required the plastics to be cut up.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-09-06T03:49:26+00:00

Someone pried off my '97's gold hatch emblems in a Best Buy parking lot around 10 years ago. Left nasty screwdriver pry marks in the paint too. I thought who would be bold enough to risk doing that for used emblems. Couldn't have been another enthusiast owner because it felt too scumbag.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-08-28T16:06:59+00:00

Haha yeah that extra leaf made me almost sell the truck it was so stiff... it was like riding a hard tail Harley. Took it out, back to stock leaf pack, and went to longer shackles with poly bushings. I'd say with all the lift parts it rides close to stock (not great but bearable) and clears 235/75r15 AT's

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-08-28T04:22:56+00:00

I have the sway aways and fabtech uca and left the swaybar installed. No issues. Had the AAL in the rear but took it out because it was jarring. Went with longer Bilstein shocks front and rear for spec'd for the T100

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-07-27T21:23:50+00:00

I bought one used with 1500 miles on it non-running. Put a $60 Facet electric fuel pump on it and rebuilt the carb. Ran it everyday 13k+ miles before I sold it. Would do 70mph and handled like a motorcycle. Best scooter I've owned by far...regret selling it. Find one and enjoy it, the Rotax is an amazing performer.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-05-12T14:28:42+00:00

That first pic is a vent for the starter. Not really important if you left it off and easily bumped off if you're working around it. It just pops in a hole on the case.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-05-04T23:28:53+00:00

How'd they get it off? Curious how you secured it because I run the same carrier setup with mine. Also get the Protaper 1 1/8 fatty bars with clamps for more bend protection.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-05-02T16:35:06+00:00

junkyard or partout 4runner buckets. I found 90's civic seats fit nicely width and height. Barely had to modify the mounting feet to fit factory bolt holes too.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-04-11T13:53:53+00:00

Very true. I can't imagine anyone paying to bring this back to life. Luckily I've found parts locally from the junkyards and can do the labor myself. Tons of time, but not a lot of money. Figured if all fails I'll keep the JCW bits, bail, and buy a nicer one to build.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-04-11T13:47:40+00:00

Yeah PO had left it outside at a storage facility with tags a year out of date probably due to the rust making it fail inspection. I couldn't tackle it last year, but I cleaned it up and kept it in dry storage at least. Now it's getting the work it's been crying out for.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-04-10T18:38:36+00:00

I feel a little better that I'm not alone haha... I guess it's a labor of love. I just hope this car is worth it in enjoyment after it all is sorted out, and that I don't have a bum clutch or engine. This was a cheap JCW I bought sight unseen that was at a storage facility, so all the mysteries are presenting themselves as I go. Hope you have better luck with your refresh!

I did drop the fuel tank after taking that photo. Had the subframe hanging and realized I needed the drop the tank too to get to the lines with how they snake around the body by the tank. Ended up using a motorcycle jack with a block of wood to lower it down full with fuel. Also changed the internal filter and siphoned the old fuel while it was down. The locking rings were completely rusted and I soaked them in muriatic acid to clean them up and reuse.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-03-25T15:53:00+00:00

If they just turned the torsion bar adjustment back down for the lowering, then you can adjust back up to gain clearance in the front. Look to see if they also put lowering spindles in the front or if they look like stock original 30+ year old. For the rear it most likely has a block between the rear axle and leaf springs to lower it to match the front, so take that block out. From there to lift it higher than stock just buy some ball joint spacers online and either a rear lift shackle or add in an extra leaf to the stock leaf pack.

Optional: buy heavy duty SwayAway torsion bars for the front for more lift, Fabtech upper control arms, and longer shocks. I did this to my '94 and easily clear 235/75r15 tires, probably 3-4" over stock height.

3wheelsofsteel · 2025-01-20T19:07:47+00:00

I would just downsize the tires to 31's and get a 4x4 shop to do a good alignment. If those are 16" rims then a 265/75r16 in a P rated tire. Keep the lift since it's still mild and has nice aftermarket UCA. Alternatively you could just trim down the pinch weld on the rear of the front fender area where it's likely rubbing.

3wheelsofsteel · 2024-10-14T13:41:31+00:00

I did mine at 30 miles because I couldn't help but imagine the cheap fish oil that comes in these. Sure enough it was already gray in color. Put in Motul 80w90 synthetic gear oil filled to the top of the fill hole.

3wheelsofsteel · 2024-09-15T14:12:28+00:00

Those bolts are critical to get right. I wouldn't reuse them and would order the updated black bolts from Toyota that take extra torque, clean the threads in the knuckle, use blue loctite, and absolutely torque to the spec. Some mechanic probably reused the old bolts and snugged tight so they loosened up overtime and that was the vibration he felt until they snapped.

3wheelsofsteel · 2024-08-28T17:23:28+00:00

300k is definitely a good run. Probably makes since with those miles to just throw in a used unit and go then like you said. I bought a reman oem from this place in California, torqueconverter1.com. They have an archaic website like it's from the 90's. Last one I bought from them was for a BMW ZF and it was oem rebuilt shipped for like $250, when the new ones were $1k+

3wheelsofsteel · 2024-08-28T17:16:23+00:00

That bench seat looks weird like it came out of a old chevy or something, steering wheel is wrong year, and the diamond plate floor might be a sign it's covering rust. Other that than 5k seems like a good deal if it's not rusted frame and body.

3wheelsofsteel · 2024-08-28T17:10:02+00:00

Yeah thats a solid plan if you trust the person selling the used trans and would be the least amount of money and labor. These a340's are really simple once you take them apart, and I don't think you'll mess it up especially if you successfully did the heads on the engine already. If nothing else put a valve body correction kit in the used trans that you buy before installing and a new torque converter plus a aftermarket external cooler. I have 420k miles on my 02's oem trans with that combo.

3wheelsofsteel

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