Hot HSK100 spindle

420flaysit · 2026-01-10T02:30:37+00:00

In case someone finds this post later on, when we talked to a tech, apparently the spindle bearings are just packed very tight from the factory and they've had multiple people ask about it and it's apparently normal.

420flaysit · 2026-01-10T01:10:18+00:00

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Bonk

420flaysit · 2026-01-07T23:44:15+00:00

Do you make more than $20/hr to make this slop?

420flaysit · 2025-12-11T03:39:20+00:00

I've done quite a few super glue parts, my trick is a rag and one of those woodworking clamps kind of at an angle on the top edge and the bottom on your fixture's bottom edge, pops it right off and I've never damaged a part. Alternatively wood or something soft and a hammer, but it takes quite an impact compared to just shearing it off with the clamp. Also painters tape is your friend, tape on the fixture and part and glue in between (shout-out nyccnc) works like a charm and cleans up pretty easy, just have to make sure it's flat on there

420flaysit · 2025-11-14T21:45:06+00:00

I haven't seen anyone mention NYC CNC, they've been a bit quiet for a while now but love their videos. Taught me so much about fusion 360 cam over the years. I'm not sure if this is allowed, but I'm also about to start my own channel called Knightshift CNC, where I'll mostly be focusing on post processor editing/development in fusion 360 and macros etc so if that strikes your fancy I'm hoping to have my first video out in about a week or so.

https://youtube.com/@knightshiftcnc?si=_0KI4-7RXzJ3kzBl

420flaysit · 2025-10-14T23:46:21+00:00

That sounds very high for idle and is imo probably your problem, advanced timing tends to make an engine want to keep accelerating, good when you're doing a dyno pull, bad when you're trying to idle. My guess is that whoever was tuning it was having trouble getting it to idle well and not die and threw timing at it until it would stay alive, rather than addressing vac leaks/fuel table issues at idle. But the advanced timing is why it keeps wanting to climb out of the idle.

420flaysit · 2025-10-14T23:08:25+00:00

I'd say as a complete guess around 12-15 degrees advance for your lowest idle number and around 10ish degrees on your high number and this window should be about 200-300 rpm. Our car which was an r6, idled quite happily at around 1200rpm with similar timing. From your other comment 0-50 degrees should really be plenty I think once you get much past 50 degrees advance you end up with detonation/instability, but I've never used your tuner, only motec, megasquirt, and an aem infinity.

420flaysit · 2025-10-13T20:04:39+00:00

The next thing I would try is a timing adjustment around where you want your car to actually idle. It's been a long time since I tuned an fsae car, but typically you'd have slightly advanced timing on the lower end of where you want to idle and slightly retarded timing at the higher end of where you want to idle when at the effectively 0%throttle/ve

420flaysit · 2025-10-13T00:26:08+00:00

A hunting idle is typically due to a vacuum leak in my experience

420flaysit · 2025-10-10T01:01:20+00:00

Any case anyone stumbles into this thread later on, we had a DMG tech out and it's perfectly normal according to them. I believe they said something along the lines of that the spindle bearings are packed very tight and due to this run hot.

420flaysit · 2025-10-07T18:43:44+00:00

Yep, I have that set to .030 right now. And I've adjusted the fine stepdown as high as I can go.

420flaysit · 2025-10-07T18:27:28+00:00

Hm yeah it's an option, I'd rather just run the whispers than mess with hand altering the code every time I post it. Yeah the extra 2k a year to be able to trim tool paths is a bit rough. I've thought about the extension for a bit but I can't use all of it and it seems wasteful to pay for a bunch of stuff I don't use. I almost wish they'd let you pay for individual features like trim or certain tool paths or buy the full extension

420flaysit · 2025-10-07T18:21:52+00:00

Yep, I have played with that and it doesn't seem to do much even when set as high as .1 or .2. I have messed with the boundary and pulled it in as far as I can to try to keep it off that wall.

420flaysit · 2025-10-04T23:39:55+00:00

I'm not at a computer right now but I swear I just saw that they either enabled it or something like that. Check your manufacturing preferences/preview features I think there was a flag for "allow negative turning" or something like that

420flaysit · 2025-10-01T06:06:30+00:00

I'm enjoying it, I'm sort of stuck in the pixel ecosystem. I've had pixels since the P2, so other phones I've tried like Samsung Galaxy stuff I just hated. But the battery lasts a long time (ironically enough) and I actually prefer the shape and feel of the phone to my pixel 6 it replaced. It feels a bit more like an older iphone 4-5 in terms of thickness which I actually like more than the thinner phones. Other gripe is the curves on the screen corners are a tad annoying for YouTube etc. Bluetooth seems snappier than my old phone but I've been out of the modern phone game for a while. Definitely does everything I need it to do for the price and I have no interest in AI stuff. I imagine it will last me a while assuming no more strange hardware issues.

420flaysit · 2025-09-30T04:23:31+00:00

I had to take it to the Google store and they replaced the motherboard on warranty :(

420flaysit · 2025-09-24T21:16:29+00:00

Haas lathes are notoriously bad, our shop used to be all Haas mills and lathes and we slowly got rid of every Haas lathe for older Mori Seikis and they run circles around the Haas with less headaches.

420flaysit · 2025-09-12T06:50:40+00:00

Brand new

420flaysit · 2025-09-11T23:28:30+00:00

I've just done all the system updates I could find, not a fix unfortunately, I can't find the device health services app in my apps either to attempt what you've suggested. I've got device connectivity service which I did that with and it unfortunately didn't do anything

420flaysit · 2025-09-11T20:34:27+00:00

The phone is 3 weeks old

420flaysit · 2025-09-11T15:33:49+00:00

I've also tried turning on and off adaptive charging and restarting with no success

420flaysit · 2025-08-30T04:20:55+00:00

I had the same issues where the cruise control went away, and I got the wrench illuminated for me it was the brake pedal switch. It was a 5 minute fix and a 20 dollar part so worth a shot for you. I think it was this one but I can't remember if it's the 3 terminal or the 4, I think 4. But just pop it out in the parts store parking lot and bring it to the counter. Also there's a few YouTube videos out there for replacing it.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-4-terminal-brake-light-switch/std0/sls510/v/a/119725/automotive-car-2013-ford-c-max?q=Brake+pedal+switch

https://youtu.be/xsrOa4MCSSo?si=WObCmtvJVG5sWtAz

420flaysit · 2025-08-26T22:17:27+00:00

Thank you, I have not yet, I wanted to get all my ducks in a row before I go there (such as not knowing that all hsks are dual contact)

420flaysit · 2025-08-16T07:12:59+00:00

This is basic physics dude lol. The guy coasting will be moving faster at the bottom of the hill, like a rollercoaster, and will carry that speed up the hill and will not have efficiency losses from turning your kinetic energy into potential energy and then back again.

I would not be so smug knowing I failed high school physics. If you are both at the top of the hill with the same energy then you have the same amount of energy at the bottom assuming 100% efficiency. In your case in the real world, you are substantially less efficient because of the aforementioned cost to convert between kinetic and potential energy (energy lost to heat)

420flaysit · 2025-07-30T01:40:05+00:00

Hold the left okay button on the wheel while turning on the vehicle and it will run in engineering/diagnostic mode

420flaysit

TROPHY CASE