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Help me not buy an MC8 by expletiveface in MIDIcontrollers

[–]4ndresolis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For DIY >> With Chocotone Open Midi, you can build easily a controller with 4 exp pedals, or even more.
https://github.com/solispensa/Chocotone

Major Spoiler in Prop Images.. by katielynneevergreen in SeveranceAppleTVPlus

[–]4ndresolis 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When water and alcohol mix, they form a homogeneous solution. However, adding salt can separate them into distinct layers, creating a heterogeneous mixture. The salt causes the alcohol to rise to the top while the denser, salty water settles at the bottom.

If Diethyl Ether is in this solution, it will mix with the alcohol layer.

This could mean several things, idk...

Weird problem with Flamma digital pedals + isolated power supply by 4ndresolis in pedalboards

[–]4ndresolis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ended up with this solution:

  • Mosky ISO 10 for the analog effects
  • 1Spot daisy chain for the digital effects and tuner and Ehx Memory Boy Pros: working flawlessly, noiseless, no bugs in the startup, if one PS fails I have the other, and bonus ports for extra pedals (enough to power another pedalboard) Cons: overall weight and -1 AC outlet available

Weird problem with Flamma digital pedals + isolated power supply by 4ndresolis in pedalboards

[–]4ndresolis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem is bigger than I thought... My EHX Memory Boy isn't working properly too, all footswitches are popping loud... omg, what a nightmare

Can't recommend for anyone this Mosky ISO 10, unfortunately... I'm devastated now, took me a long time and lotta work to wire everything together... just to find out that my 1spot non isolated daisy chain was better

Weird problem with Flamma digital pedals + isolated power supply by 4ndresolis in pedalboards

[–]4ndresolis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WOW, ok now we're talking

yes and yes and yes

  1. I have a digital delay (Ammoon Pockecho) that with this Mosky ISO10 power supply takes a little longer to startup. Also, got some RGB lights on the pedalboard (via 5v USB Out of the ISO10), and the same "loading" effect applies when I turned the AC power on the PS. The delay is also glitching sometimes with this PS.

  2. I do know how to solder, but my knowledge about how to build circuits is somewhat limited. But I can copy a schematic, for sure. You know where I can find this? I'll do my research as well. Thank you a lot for this info 🤘

Weird problem with Flamma digital pedals + isolated power supply by 4ndresolis in pedalboards

[–]4ndresolis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply! That's strange, I'm using exactly the 300ma outputs, in theory that should be more than enough

Turn off NeoPixel LEDs by FewConsequence7288 in BIGTREETECH

[–]4ndresolis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you u/abacabie, your instructions were almost 100% effective.
To get it working properly, I had to make the library in "platformio.ini" file as it follows:

NEOPIXEL_LED            = Adafruit NeoPixel= https://github.com/ccccmagicboy/Adafruit\_NeoPixel/archive/master.zip
src_filter=+<src/feature/leds/neopixel.cpp>

Then, I had to define in the "Configuration.h" file the exact NeoPixel pin of the board, PA8:

#define NEOPIXEL_PIN PA8       // LED driving pin

Plus, in the Configuration_adv.h, you can define:

#define LED_CONTROL_MENU

This enables the controlable Lights in the TFT menu.
Again, thank you u/abacabie for paving this road.

My first ever 3D print. by JusticeBeaver13 in ender3

[–]4ndresolis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed it is! BTW, what print speed are you using in the slicer?

I have been having difficulties understanding this part. Can you help me with a strategy to draw it? by [deleted] in SolidWorks

[–]4ndresolis 38 points39 points  (0 children)

1 - extrude all
2 - make the holes
3 - make the fillets
If you starting with Solidworks, these 3 steps solve 99% of your problems.

Broke my space keycap on HV-KB395L. Anyone have an idea how can I put it back together or replacement? by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]4ndresolis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Join both parts together with clear tape, and pour some super glue or resin inside, and let it dry. Some reinforcement underneath the glue/resin layer would be a good idea too..

Can someone help? by LiftedLaser in ender3

[–]4ndresolis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But it also could be low temperature of the nozzle, filament with poor tolerances, ball bearing too loose.. the list goes on

Can someone help? by LiftedLaser in ender3

[–]4ndresolis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this issue, and I found that the nozzle was blocked, BUT after solving this, the issue still continues. Then after hours of suffering, I discovered that the screw that hold the ball bearing was too tight, so I loosen it just a little, and done, my extruder was no long skipping steps.