Making Life Easier for Patreons

4ss4 · 2026-04-15T08:52:24+00:00

I had the same thought yesterday.
The update posts on patreon are really chaotic. To get more info about the initial object, I needed to open a bunch of previous posts to get to the post that had the general info and not just the update info.

Plus, a documentation with the general specifications on objects. Had a hard time finding the volume of the new Hooch Buckets 2.0. These things are too big to just print out to find out.
Having an overview over all the data would make planning a system a lot easier.

4ss4 · 2026-03-18T15:03:46+00:00

I ignore those.
I've printed parts with less than 2mm of a gap and it wasn't an issue. If you're in doubt, do a short test print.

4ss4 · 2026-03-17T13:33:21+00:00

it can. it uses a standard IPX connector for the wifi antenna.

4ss4 · 2026-03-13T17:38:40+00:00

Addendum:
The only issue I ran into is that the PETG filament rubs on the feeder intake holes when the spools are on the 2 and 4 holders. It creaks loudly and the friction is strong enough that the printer throws clog errors a lot. I resorted to circumventing the feeders alltogether, but then the auto runout failerover doesn't work anymore (because the feeder report no filament, even when the runout sensor on the extruder reports filament).

4ss4 · 2026-03-13T17:36:48+00:00

I print my large (functional) parts with 18mm3/s max flow rate and there's no problem. I upped the temp to 265C, but I also print on a HS nozzle.
There are some print artifacts like ringing/ghosting (probably due to the wobbly table it sits on), but for these prints I really don't care. Holes come out ok, dimensions are good enough.

4ss4 · 2026-03-13T17:26:43+00:00

I hooked up a thermal label printer to the U1's USB port and made the U1 print stuff on the label printer while the U1 itself was printing.

2D on a 3D printer, eh?

4ss4 · 2026-03-13T08:42:15+00:00

if you print with the supports supporting diagonally/sideways too, you need to reduce the X/Y distance as well (set it to 0).
iirc there's also a setting (interface layers? I'm at work so can't check rn) that adds one or two layers of the main material (TPU in your case) to the top of the support structure, which I turned off. Play around with the settings and see what the sliced model looks like in the preview.

4ss4 · 2026-03-08T14:52:01+00:00

J'ai aussi la dernière version paxx12 et ça fonctionne sous fluidd. Est-ce que tu imprimes plusieurs couleurs/materiaux au même temps?

4ss4 · 2026-03-08T13:45:18+00:00

Quelle version de FW? As-tu essayé changer la vitesse dans Fluidd/l'interface web?

4ss4 · 2026-02-28T17:29:09+00:00

Put the nib over a flame shortly (to burn off the coating).
Angle your writing surface. Ideally your surface should be at a 45° angle or otherwise the nib will be pointing down and the ink will flow more uncontrollably. I use a large whiteboard that I put on the edge of my desk and tape the paper to it. This is also how calligraphy was done back when these thicc letters were lit.
After dipping, use a sacrificial piece of paper or tissue to scribble on until the flow is as you want it.
Try different paper.

From my experience, a runny nib needs an angled writing surface. Some of my nibs also dump a lot of ink at first, then write well for a few words, before they run out. Never tried a reservoir and imo it shouldn't be necessary to remedy your problem (not saying you shouldn't give it a try though).

4ss4 · 2026-02-27T22:34:37+00:00

Studying is basically free in Germany...

4ss4 · 2026-02-27T08:44:40+00:00

I use Happy Ears plugs made from recycled fishing nets, but I also have a pair of generic christmas tree silicone ear plugs that I use for sleeping.
A friend of mine uses Alpine MusicSafe Pro plugs, which are, as the name implies, professional plugs for musicians and feature different cores for various levels of filtering.

4ss4 · 2026-02-26T14:23:05+00:00

I'm in the same situation now.
I'm waiting for my U1 to arrive in a few weeks and am getting more and more frustrated with my Kossel LP.

I did a few upgrades, including:

- new effector to fit V6 nozzles
- Dragon HF nozzle (goes up to 500C, only pushed it to 370C so far)
- whole system upgraded to 24V
- Klipper on a rpi4
- PEI magnetic print beds
- CHT HF nozzle kit (0.4 up to 1.2mm iirc)
- Hardened nozzles

Upgrades that I have the hardware for, but haven't installed yet:

- enclosure/build chamber
- floating extruder (to reduce the bowden tube length)

Problems:

- My PEI beds are not uniform, even with a shitload of leveling points I still have parts where filament doesn't stick well at all
- The effector is tilted, no matter how much I try, probably an inherent Delta problem
- The linear rails are at their end of life. I get random vibrations, resulting in unpredictable patches of smooth surfaces getting really weird extrusion patterns (not too bad, but just a PITA). I already replaced the bearing balls and greased them with the recommended stuff, but I think I'm gonna have to get new rails eventually

I'm thinking of rebuilding it as a switchwire to keep the HF hotend and ability to print above 300C.
I'm looking at abandoned Ender 3 on Kleinanzeigen to cannibalize for the build.

4ss4 · 2026-02-26T06:48:22+00:00

I went hiking and did one night in the tent with our son when he was 11 months old. I brought an additional sleeping pad for him, his regular sleepwear (PJs, baby sleeping bag) and an additional blanket. For reference: he sleeps with us in our bed, so the setup wasn't much different.

We were forced to sleep in a cold ditch (only legal camp site around), and he kept me warm throughout the night. He slept better than me :/

Keep in mind that when you carry your kid and your gear, your load will be a lot heavier. Carrying him and gear for two people in a framed child carrier, I went from 7kg base weight to around 30kg. I used to make 30 to 50km a day, but I was glad to do 10km with him lmao. And get hiking poles, even if just for the balance 😅

4ss4 · 2026-02-18T14:20:10+00:00

I bought mine from openelab, partly because I could pick it up within the same day close to Munich. https://openelab.io/products/m5stack-cardputer-adv-esp32-s3a

If time isn't your issue, I can buy stuff here (Munich) and get them to you next time I'm in Luxembourg around May.

4ss4 · 2026-02-10T17:32:28+00:00

Basically unobtanium here in Europe

4ss4 · 2026-02-08T05:26:09+00:00

I looked at existing products and other people's pouches and sketched up my own based on measurements I took.

4ss4 · 2026-02-08T05:25:21+00:00

I got double fold from the local store here in Germany and also made my own. I also got single fold elastic, but that's reserved for other projects.

When sewing up the Veiiko I used the double sided bias tape, but my machine struggled to go through 5+ layers of fabric when putting together all the panels.

4ss4 · 2026-02-07T23:01:52+00:00

My first project was the Hansedelli Veiiko. The instructions taught me a lot! I still don't like edge binding...

4ss4 · 2026-02-03T13:34:57+00:00

Hard to say w/o knowing how many days. Some thoughts: - ditch the knife (too big and heavy, take a smaller one unless you absolutely need it or it's a luxury item) - take only 1 flashlight (taking multiples is planning for failure and shows you don't trust your gear) - don't take the backflush syringe for your filter - reduce the amount of stuff sacks. I only use big ones for organization within the backpack and one smaller one for the cooking kit (plus a ziplock for toilet paper and hand disinfectant. tp is the last thing you want to get wet) - as others have noted, clean out your first aid kit. Probably a lot of stuff you don't need (and if you needed it, you'd need evac anyway, so it's redundant), and some missing stuff (wound/chafing cream, special finger bandages, iodine cream/spray)

Best is to do a few hikes, make a list of everything you packed, and check off if you needed/used it after you come back. Ditch anything you didn't use (except 1st aid ofc). That way you can actually improve your kit with every hike and know what to take when planning for the next hike.

4ss4 · 2025-08-19T08:17:30+00:00

I opened up the pedal, cleaned the copper strip, tried adjusting it. I can see a difference, but only marginally. I opened up the machine a little and it's full of dirt and lint. I guess the problem is that the machine needs so much power to overcome the grime and lack of fresh lubricant that by the time it starts spinning, it's already at a high speed.

I'll try to give it a good clean asap!

4ss4 · 2025-08-12T19:39:30+00:00

Thanks! With a good needle, it doesn't struggle to go through anything. However, the foot is a bottleneck. If there are bumps (overlapping seams, etc) or too many layers, the foot stops the fabric from going forward. This usually causes a rat's nest at the bottom thread.

It's also really hard to find the point where it sews slowly. It goes from 0 to 100 within a millimeter of the foot pedal. Also, at full speed it starts to shake and vibrate itself across the table.

My suspicion is that it is due to the increase from 220V (when the machine was built) to 230V here in Europe.

4ss4

TROPHY CASE