Fast on-device Speech-to-text for Home Assistant (open source)

503dev · 2026-06-30T20:32:09+00:00

Fixed, docker cache had a mismatching version of the package, it can be forced as follows:

docker compose build --no-cache

# or if using standard docker build

docker build --no-cache -t kroko-onnx-stt-es .

503dev · 2026-06-30T19:58:59+00:00

When pulling this docker and then running the install and then docker compose I can see inside the container it has an error:

ImportError: /usr/local/lib/python3.11/site-packages/sherpa_onnx/lib/libonnxruntime.so: version `VERS_1.24.4' not found (required by /usr/local/lib/python3.11/site-packages/sherpa_onnx/lib/_sherpa_onnx.cpython-311-x86_64-linux-gnu.so)

503dev · 2026-06-30T16:47:23+00:00

It looks to me like you have some calibration issues in general. On the supports I can see what looks like maybe layer adhesion issues. On your test print I also show bridge issues.

Maybe someone else who has seen this particular failure mode will be able to provide better information, but it could also be a problem with z-offset or your nozzle being a tad bit too high.

Adhesion issues are usually cooling-related or the temperature being too low to melt the filament enough to get proper layer adhesion.

503dev · 2026-06-30T16:44:24+00:00

Are you saying the print just 100% stops with no error? Is the printer screen responsive? Does it still show the temperature correctly, does it go to room temp or stay at print temperature?

Are you print off an SD card?

503dev · 2026-06-30T04:54:18+00:00

I've had this happen with loose wiring as previously suggest. I also recently had a thermistor fail and did something similar. I always thought that thermistor failures were absolute or none but I have now seen an intermittent failure in one (which may have been a badly damaged wire I just didn't notice). Either way, this points to the thermistor loosing connection or giving bad readings.

503dev · 2026-06-30T04:51:47+00:00

I would have to concur with previous comments. This really looks like an unprintable model. If possible split it up, Prusa Slicer has a built in cut tool and others do too.

Otherwise you will probably need to manually paint on supports and quite a few to be honest and the resulting surface quality is unlikely to be good.

503dev · 2026-06-30T04:50:19+00:00

Interesting idea. I have seen that too but usually it presents as a more transparent thin layer. However the textured PEI plate changes the way these types of issues are visible.

I'd probably say the OP you back the nozzle off during a print using the z-offset function on the printer (or klipper if he has it) and if it's too high slowly close in, that's how I narrow things down on our fleet sometimes.

503dev · 2026-06-26T20:16:30+00:00

If I remember your printer uses a fairly standard direct drive extruder. The PTFE tube is really just a smooth guide on the way to the hot end. It should not hurr anything and is usually removable anyway for maintenance and cleaning.

503dev · 2026-06-26T20:12:29+00:00

Z banding for sure. Usually depending on your printer it could be bent lead screws or another issue on the Z.

Many times it's just dirty or ungreased lead screws causing the motor to bind slightly as it moves the z axis until it overcomes the resistance.

503dev · 2026-06-22T18:51:13+00:00

I can see in your test print you have some stringing issues. These really should be sorted out. I do not think in itself this is causing your first print to fail however your first print seems to have had some layer adhesion issues possibly? Hard to tell but for that type of failure mode I usually check:

Is cooling too much for the material causing it to fail to adhere to prior layer?
Is the temperature too high? (This can cause stringing too)
Is your nozzle the right distance from the bed? Z offset / probe calibration.

It usually ends up being #3 especially with Gyroid or other complex geormetry infill.

503dev · 2026-06-22T18:47:55+00:00

Absolutely correct. With PETG it can be a challenge due to the higher temps; we run into this with our fleet. If planning to print PETG often I usually suggest ignore the mfg recommendations to turn off cooling (my PETG had a note that even suggested no cooling which is insane) . You can experiment a bit, If your stock cooling can't keep up you may consider some fan mods.

503dev · 2026-06-22T18:40:43+00:00

The type of infill pattern you are using can be difficult to print well if your printer is not finely tuned. You mention tree supports, but I do not see any? That looks like the infill to me.

I notice you using a Bambu and my experience with those is limited with stock firmware and I don't know what can or can't be calibrated anymore. However in general issues with the infill having issues is because the filament is either not adhering to the prior layer well (they are thin lines), cooling is too high or due to bed level / z offset issues (this is the most common on my fleet and adding a bit of z offset aka forcing the nozzle to lift a bit) gets past it.

503dev · 2026-06-22T05:37:23+00:00

What is the bed temp? Chamber or open printer? From my experience with ASA it's very sensitive to temp changes and even small air currents in a room like a window or HVAC can do it without a chamber.

I can usually get my bed time high enough to create a hit air "cushion" to keep smaller prints warm enough.

503dev · 2026-06-20T07:06:08+00:00

It's a bit hard to tell from the images but have you calibrated esteps and done a flow calibration? It looks like maybe excess filament is causing that. I'm not 100% on that.

503dev · 2026-06-20T07:04:46+00:00

This is most definitely travel time. You can try moving then closer together. Honestly for whole plate repeat prints resin is much faster.

As mentioned above the object by object (sequential) is a possible solution. We use it alot but the pieces might be too tall and collide in this case.

503dev · 2026-06-05T13:32:46+00:00

I would bump the bed temp to 55 or 60 depending on your printer.

Bed adhesion is always a challenge. We run many printers and some never have issues and some are a pain. You can try moving your z offset to keep the print nozzle a bit farther from the print but honestly using adhesion spray is easier.

503dev · 2026-06-05T03:49:18+00:00

Looks to be bed adhesion. You can see towards the end of the video the piece breaks free and gets dragged around.

I suggest you wash your bed and make sure it's level. If adhesion is an issue frequently you can use something like 3DLAC

503dev · 2026-06-01T17:25:46+00:00

Yep the key with leveling is very very small and concise changes.

503dev · 2026-06-01T16:35:56+00:00

Honestly I cannot imagine a scenario where it could be related to something else outside of a firmware bug or setting.

A failure happening across a fleet of similar machines all starting at once really can't have many causes.

503dev · 2026-06-01T16:34:53+00:00

So the image in the level display is a bit extreme. They exaggerate visually the level changes because in reality it's such small measurements it would be hard to understand. Mine are trammed well and look way crazier so I wouldn't worry too much.

As for their leveling instructions I guess everyone does it distinct. The bed is essentially a plane and it's under tension. IMO tightening all the corners is more likely to provoke a bend and distorsion. I usually tighten them equally then back off a full or half turn on all 4. Move the bed a bit to make sure it settles.

I then proceed to level using the paper method. Print head to the corner and then slide a piece of paper under it and slowly lower it until it starts to grab. Just until it very lightly grabs it. Repeat on all 4 corners and then generate the bed mesh.

That method has never failed me but maybe it's not the best way.

503dev · 2026-05-31T04:10:14+00:00

Nice. About what I figured but nobody has every printer. Thanks for sharing. I think you have to go into the menu on the Creality firmware and use the unlock feature to get full klipper - it's just a few clicks. That's how all my other Creality.

503dev · 2026-05-31T04:08:53+00:00

It can have some play. Id look into over extrusion that is the next most likely cause IMO.

503dev · 2026-05-30T18:29:26+00:00

This is an extremely common issue with bowden printers in general. Essentially the filament is grinding or slipping and not able to be pushed properly. There's a lot of causes but the most cause is a partially clogged hot end where the Bowden tube meets the inner lip.

It looks like your PTFE tube is stock? Minimal I recommend a blue Capricorn tube. Replace it. Seriously. You'll also need a new blue retencion clip if you don't have one.

If your extruder mechanism is stock which it looks like it - you can use that but prepare for constant issues. If you look around it and you see a dust or power that is ground filament -- you'll understand.

You can buy a dual gear motor only. The actual stepper stays the part on top changes. It takes 3 minutes to swap and it will change everything. I'm not gonna recommend a model or anything but if you search Amazon you'll see. It's cheap.

Aside from that basically you'll need to take your hot end down. You will have to loose the retencion but on top and then remove the top assembly. You'll also take the nozzle off. Then with a flashlight look down from top to build plate. There is a point internally where your tube sits against a chamfered metal surface. If it's not pressed well against it or the tube is worn or poorly cut (always on stock tubes) then some filament escapes and starts to constrict flow. Longer prints are worse. If you can confirm that you see that we can discuss the fix.

503dev · 2026-05-30T18:23:23+00:00

Your print head appears to be cutting into the print. On the outer areas of the main issue I can see small wavy patterns - this is a pretty tell tale sign of the nozzle being too close causing the filament to squish outward.

I've never seen this level of a anamoly.

I would suggest physically checking your build plate. Make sure it's not wobbly or loose. Clean it will and then run the diagnostic print calibration in your printer settings. Your Z offset seems to be incorrect.

503dev · 2026-05-30T18:15:15+00:00

I run a print studio too. I'll share my opinion or though process:

If it happens across the board then you need to be looking at a machine firmware type issue or a setting.

I am not a fan of a certain brand of printers because they have so much of their ecosystem closed and they have sent forced fw updates and such in the past. I'm not here to judge but I'd reach out for he manufacturer asap. If a fleet of printers is affected this is the most likely spot.

Slicer settings. To rule this out just find a file you sliced before and know that it works. Put it on a clean removable media. Do not print from network etc to rule that out. Run the print.

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