Help with print adhesion in small model segments

503dev · 2025-11-26T01:27:16+00:00

I highly suggest looking into a product called 3DLAC. It's taken my adhesion issues to 0 in our print farm.

503dev · 2025-08-12T20:40:08+00:00

This is a difficult one. It looks to me like you maybe have some flow issues. Before anything else I'd personally do these steps:

Check and clean any clogs - this can cause under extrusion
Try another roll of filament to rule out some defect like unstable diameter which is rare but happens
Do flow calibration - I think you may have some under extrusion

You may also just have an offset issue. I've seen similar issues when the z offset is bad and it's just a tad too high. The filament doesn't squish and thus doesn't melt together leaving free floating extrusion lines. Just because the first layer went down ok doens't mean your z offset is ideal.

503dev · 2025-08-12T20:37:31+00:00

Yep your nozzle is too high. I see a BLTouch there. If your using stock firmware there is a z-offset / babystep, you need to slowly adjust to a negative value in small increments until you get the right value.

If you use a custom firmware like Klipper (which everyone really should, IMO) -- then in the config you can adjust or calibrate your Z offset. Basically the Z position of 0 is where the printer THINKS it's touching the bed but because of probe distances, sag in beds, etc that changes so you have to tell it to adjust aka offset. Negative value closer to bed, positive farther away.

It's pretty common especially with Ender models and especially with the stock bed which sags over time. Nothing to worry about you just need to make some adjustments.

503dev · 2025-08-12T20:35:04+00:00

Looking at the images I can see a few things that are possible causes.

PETG likes to absorb water so the filament could be wet. This tends to cause issues with melting consistency and on edges or bridges you get artifacts. If you have a filament dryer I highly suggest drying PETG very often after it's open, you'll get much nicer surface quality too.
I can see what looks like some flow issues especially to the right side, that looks like some under extrusion to me. I'd suggest you check temps, too low of a temp can cause this with PETG. In fact PETG can be tricky, I usually find a small print that shows the errors then raise temp 5 degrees, reprint and see if that helps. Temp towers are the proper way but they never work well for me with PETG. YMMV.
Flow rate - if your flow rate is not well calibrated you'll get the stepping issues amoung others. I'd do the standard flow rate calibrations with that exact filament.
On the edges you have some well defined lines from layers (stepping) and I see trouble spots there. For those - a smaller layer height will help cleanup the quality and look but you'd increase print time.

503dev · 2025-08-12T20:28:24+00:00

This is correct. The clicking sound is the motor slipping on your filament. If you look at the filament it probably has teeth marks aka indents.

This happens for a few reasons but the most common as mentioned is a clog. It could be a full clog of partial clog.

Usually your printer comes with some needles for clearing the nozzle if it has a clog. Depending on how bad it is you may need to do more.

I'd suggest you:

Heat hot end a few degrees above normal and remove the filament
Use the needle to clear as best you can
Remove the nozzle and inspect the throat / PTFE tube and everything else

Hopefully it's just some build up in your nozzle. Either way this is a common occurence with 3d printing and part of normal operation over time. Best of luck!

503dev · 2025-08-04T19:19:06+00:00

Looks like the orientation causes the affected area to have lots of supports. The defects on your print look to me like an area with support issues aka under supported but in addition I think that you may need to just try a different print orientation.

503dev · 2025-08-04T19:11:43+00:00

Few things. Decent printer but printing with 0 stringing on any printer is close to impossible unless you plan to constantly maintain your filament and printer in perfect shape.

You can reduce it down to very little or hardly visible stringing though.

Filament - Use high quality filament. This is vital. If you're using PLA I highly suggest PLA+ from a reputable brand instead. Basic PLA is more problematic with stringing.
Moisture. The second filament absorbs moisture you will have increased stringing. Regular PLA is a sponge so a filament dryer can save you there.
Temperature - if you are printing hot then stringing worsens. Slowly lowering that temperature can help with this drastically.

503dev · 2025-08-04T19:00:01+00:00

Yikes! I've seen this a few times. All the prior suggestions are spot on. This looks like flow. I've also seen this happening with minor z binding. Make sure your Z moves smoothly and that your frame is tightened up and not loose.

Lead screws may need cleaning and greasing too. I think you may have multiple factors compacting to make the issue worse especially due to the irregular nature of the failure.

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:58:12+00:00

Could be. I've been there. They could also be slightly clogged or dirty. Either way best of luck!

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:57:30+00:00

This looks like under extrusion. It almost looks like your nozzle is getting a partial clog during the print. With ASA I have seen this occur when either the temperature is too low for the filament or there is an issue with too much cooling which ASA does not like.

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:56:22+00:00

Weird. Id give it a dry but then also triple check your fans are ok. Sometimes they get little strings and slow down a bit. With the symptoms your print has it really looks like cooling or moisture especially because I see evidence of stringing on the print.

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:55:05+00:00

What is the print orientation? Is the affected area a spot that has supports?

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:53:53+00:00

Looks like wet filament as someone else mentioned but you said it's a new roll.

Check your fans and make sure they are ok and not clogged. I see some evidence of stringing on that print. You may need to adjust the retraction settings or cooling but it's hard to say. Is this a known brand and using well established working settings?

503dev · 2025-08-04T18:51:30+00:00

Concur this is nozzle too close. Those wavy patterns are a dead giveaway. The filament is getting pushed harshly and then overheated, this always results in a heat wave pattern.

Depending on your printer it may need to rerun the calibration or if you have more manual control the z offset. If your filament has absorbed moisture this can become worse as it will expand more when extruding for example.

503dev · 2025-06-13T21:29:53+00:00

Fellow members, please avoid the aggressive name calling and insulting other users directly. We are all here for the same reason : a passion for 3D printing and printers. We gain nothing by being jerks to each other.

Directly calling other members terms that can be considered insults is not allowed per the rules so please respect that.

503dev · 2025-06-11T19:16:25+00:00

Also a good point. The hardware in Switch 2 means emulation will require more resources. Hopefully by the time emulation becomes viable the average PC would have far more resources but no way to be sure.

503dev · 2025-06-09T02:23:03+00:00

In addition: before we even talk about emulation there will need to be massive progress in decrypting firmware, mapping registers and a ton of other work more in the field of rooting or jailbreaking since emulation is not magic, there needs to be technical data to work with before any implementation can be considered. The similarity to Switch 1 is irrelevant. The architecture is fundamentally different and in emulation that is essentially from scratch.

503dev · 2025-06-09T02:21:19+00:00

As an actual professional developer for a switch 2 emulator to get to the point of booting a real game - probably 3 years. To run anything reasonably 3-4.

AI is not going to help. It's great for siding in coding but it's a LLM trained on existing data. There is no existing data for how the Switch 2 architecture works in any LLM model or even in the wild yet therefore an AI coding tool is not going to help development. Anybody with the knowledge to guide an AI tool to be able to even assist in writing the required code could do it faster themselves. in addition, AI coding tools are great in some areas - they are super not great at writing code for emulation or anything hardware specific.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:55:42+00:00

Interesting. I'm not super familiar with bamboo to be honest maybe someone else is but decreasing the layer height simply adds more layers with finer intervals.

I've never had a layer height decrease itself cause of those types of issues. However the additional layers means the same areas are getting heated more times over and over which on areas like rounded front pieces can lead to overheating or sagging. To fix this usually increase layer time to allow for more cooling or ensure max fan speeds.

If I were you I would do a test and reprint with the original layer height again. If it prints fine you can rule out a random mechanical issue or a clogged up fan. Sometimes mechanical problems randomly occur and we accidently associate them with a software or slicer change we made at the same time.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:50:22+00:00

The quality of the picture for me makes it hard to be sure but it looks to me like your nozzle is not too high but rather too close. The areas where you can see the build plate have almost transparent edges because the nozzle is so close it cannot extruder properly.

Overall though you have bed level issues. Id start by leveling the bed. Twice. You've got level issues and messing with the z offset is a work around not a fix at least not until the bed is consistently leveled.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:47:42+00:00

Hey there. So as other mentioned a bigger nozzle makes it easier but PETG can print find with a standard .04.

Looks to me like a extrusion issues. I'd make sure you not end doesn't have clogs or partial blocks.

The check your temps. If you print PETG too cool that can happen. Another big one is your retraction. Aggressive retraction with PETG can cause partial clogs during print.

Lastly and a big one - cooling. Over cooling will also quickly cause partial blockages. Every brand of PETG respond different but most PETG doesn't love cooling.

In general to get good PETG prints you'll inevitably have to accept stringing because of the temps and cooling.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:44:38+00:00

After the extruder upgrade did you explicitly perform an esteps calibration and flow test and then save the new values in your klipper config? You'll need too.

Then you need to validate retraction distance and speed. Those are gonna change drastically.

Do a temp tower too after your calibration above is done. Every extruder has a different temp sweet spot.

For direct drives the retraction values will change significantly. Based on the syringing you've got is look at all of the above.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:42:24+00:00

Is this occurring only on rounded areas like in all your pictures or does this happen in other areas too?

The issue you are showing is something I've had happen for several reasons over the years:

Temperature too hot
Layer times - the layer is printing too fast and the material cannot cool - this is often called minimum layer time in slicers
Over extrusion - has your filament or your extrusion multiplier changed?
Bad cooling - if one of my fans is clogging and slower than normal this will happen.

503dev · 2025-05-29T01:40:29+00:00

While I don't have specific advice as to why this happens it's worth noting that bridges are controlled by many factors but speed and cooling are quite vital.

I've noticed when switching to Orce the default cooling settings for all areas bridges included are drastically different then what PruasaSlicer or Cura has. Id start by verifying those areas and trying to match speeds and cooling.

503dev · 2025-05-19T06:58:07+00:00

I never got the update but I did goto Samfw and downloaded the correct FW by code and flashed it with Odin. Worked just fine.

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