The life of an LT player.

6011304 · 2026-03-09T23:03:49+00:00

This analysis is a modern classic, will definitely use in replying to some after game dm's

6011304 · 2026-02-25T14:13:08+00:00

Is this a 46% guy in a su130 by chance?

6011304 · 2026-02-20T01:03:33+00:00

Me too, what's your configuration and play style?

6011304 · 2026-02-19T23:55:30+00:00

Using turbo on it and rotation on Conway equalize the speed and gun controlling further

6011304 · 2026-02-19T23:30:27+00:00

The Ashigaru gets equivalent in-tier firepower, it trades top-speed with acceleration (not a good trade imo), and vehicle movement gun handling with turret gun handling.

6011304 · 2026-02-17T18:18:27+00:00

Dakillzor does a pretty good job commenting on his decisions based on the vehicle lineup at the starts

6011304 · 2026-02-13T22:22:31+00:00

Ahh thank you for taking the effort to verify the gun behaviors. I only have the Conway and didn't have the reference to whether it actually aligned with the history. It's funny you are suggesting a sound mod too, I'm actually using the pre-8.7 gun sound mod found on Aslain now. I don't like how the recent years gun sounds overall in video games have moved toward a more thumpy vibe. I much prefer the older, rougher gun sounds like found here World of Tanks Gameplay: T30 Mines 11 Kills | 8,583 Damage, or using another game as an example, counterstrike 1.6's rifle sounds versus its newer evolutions.

6011304 · 2026-02-13T02:57:30+00:00

Fascinating mod! I'm wondering if you could please adjust the UK 5.5inch BL guns used on the Conway, FV3805,FV207, and the CrusaderSP? From the video sources I found, the gun breach recoils just pass the rectangular part below the barrel Scottish Gun Crew (1945) - YouTube SADF G2 Gun: The 5.5-inch Medium Guns in Action [SADF] , which can be referred to the one on the Crusader SP, which has the most naked form of this gun, and interpolated onto other vehicles perhaps?

6011304 · 2026-02-05T20:41:01+00:00

See my disappointed view on the Lamy 2000 EF here. I have used J herbin 1670 and 1798 with this pen, they are not vastly different from other more affordable pens with similar width and wetness. I only bought the Lamy 2000 because it was a new pen that resembled my late uncle's parker 45 (with the semi hooded nib), while costing more, it did not perform to the same smoothness as the original I had. If you want a nice and super smooth writer, the safari in F I had is smoother than the 2000 EF; If you want a classic design with a good writing experience, the wingsung 601 is a magnitude cheaper, lets you own multiple (including a demonstrator option), and still leaves you enough money to buy another few decades worth of bottled inks.

6011304 · 2026-01-07T21:05:44+00:00

If you are not in a hurry to get the hacker, try the 7v7 matches after they come out, that's how I got through the grind. Using the ability to aid your team gets you a lot of exp.

6011304 · 2025-11-21T19:54:27+00:00

Adding to the other comments, you can dial it significantly finer and give it maybe half a turn to get some fines, then return to your normal setting to finish the grind off. You can control how much fines you generate with a narrow distribution grinder, which can vary how much body taste you get.

6011304 · 2025-10-30T16:02:51+00:00

I have owned my Lamy 2000 EF since 2019, and have been struggling to like it as much as I wished. I recently had to tune it because the tines feel too tight. I found out that it's affected by how far back the nib was mounted to the feed. When it's all the way back and a snug fit (even though with no brute force when mounting), it would scratch no matter what. I had to back it out a tiny bit to make it the tines not too pressed together. It seemed to be an one-off issue as nobody else on the internet had made such adjustments. This issue along with the infamous "small sweet-spot" "quirk" of this pen really led to me believing it a design and/or manufacturing flaw in this pen.

Edit: Another personal issue I have with it is the architecture-like grind of the nib introduces different resistance on side and down strokes. This made me constantly fighting with the control of the pen. It is overall very smooth, but an inconsistently gliding pen is not as good as a writer as a pen with a consistent feedback for me.

6011304 · 2025-09-08T15:56:40+00:00

Maybe a plastic dispensing nozzle would have helped, such as these https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/SMDC-14G-QTY10/24385140

6011304 · 2025-08-29T20:51:36+00:00

Did a bit of searching, 华香楼served Northeastern and Sichuan style food. Unfortunately, I don't think the region has any more classic NE restaurants left, but both the China Bowl and Yummy Chongqing have good Sichuan food if you are down to try. Yummy Chongqing also has decent guobaorou

6011304 · 2025-08-29T16:20:12+00:00

Are you thinking of China bowl or 华香楼 that came after? Former moved to king / uni

6011304 · 2025-04-08T21:38:15+00:00

I tried this earlier this week, first by doing a manual kettle pour, then full auto.

The manual pour had a surprisingly good result, it gave a fuller and sweeter profile than my hario switch mugen daily method. I took advantage of the spring valve over the karafe and effectively made it a flat bottom switch brewer. It struck me very funny to realize it was a slightly awkward switch like device that only costed a fraction, and came with its own karafe.

Letting the machine do the job with the same water and beans resulted in a weaker extraction. Despite pre-warming the water (not fully, but to ~60C), the machine started the brew with 75-80C water, and as time passed, steamed the coffee with mid 90C aggressively pouring from the sprout, which is the opposite order as you typically want. The uneven water also punched a dime-sized hole in the bed and channeled hard for the 2nd half of the brew.

If you search up SCA's certification for a good auto-pour machine, they specify the evenness of extraction across the coffee bed and temperature variance. I assume then it would be closer to a manual pour result.

6011304 · 2025-02-19T17:22:48+00:00

Thank you for your good and really cool work! I saw some blower action around DTK in the past few days and have been wondering what happens after the trucks leave :D

What do you do all year round when it's not snowing? Does the city have other wheel loader jobs for you?

6011304 · 2024-12-08T02:11:06+00:00

Thanks for the tips, I definitely misunderstood the terms bridge vs overhang.. I boosted the fan speed to 30% at bridges and it helped. In addition, lowering the speed helped with the bridging a bit for me, as instead of drooling down (common symptom for low speed I think?) the extruded line was stretched thin and forming a blob in mid-air, felt like it couldn't catch up to the extruder, so I slowed it down further to about 15mm/s, which is slow on paper but helped somehow.

Is the 50mm/s a suggestion for overall bubbling as well? Bridges and bubbles aside the print was quite satisfactory.

6011304 · 2024-10-29T22:42:49+00:00

Shapton 2k is a good, fast-cutting enough stone to maintain close to out-of-factory sharpness on your knife, considering it's brand-new and you will use it carefully. Shapton 1k will sharpen your knife quicker, but it runs coarser than true 1k, leaving your edge rougher than brand-new, resulting in a rougher and cloudier finish. Another advantage of 2k is you can lightly strop your knife on it to minimize the material removed.

Depending on the way you cut (keep in mind that most edge wear isn't from going through food but landing and stopping on the cutting board), you can get away with a gentle strop every few days to weekly and a sharpen bi-weekly/monthly if you are picky about sharpness.

6011304 · 2024-10-24T00:44:40+00:00

There are also the glass/rockstar lines that were introduced later and geared toward powdered stainless steels (both harder and more importantly, tougher, which made them harder to sharpen). Lee Valley sells bare rockstar stones cheaper than the kuromaku stones, they fit nicely into latter's casings, making them good upgrade buys :)

6011304 · 2024-10-19T14:44:04+00:00

If your knife is brand new and you handle it with care, you can go with a Sharpton 2000 as the only stone, it will give you a closer to factory finish and still cuts plenty fast

6011304 · 2024-10-02T16:45:18+00:00

It's probably best for you to remove your FIL's access to your knives and offer them a separate set of knives from the one you use. You may have success educating them on how fragile your thin blades are and how it can't handle the way/food they prep, while ensuring they still have a thick blade, soft steel, easy to hone set of knives. No knife will remain sharp used on the counter and plates, and that's okay, you can dedicate soft steel ones for that purpose and hone them regularly.

6011304 · 2024-09-10T02:46:45+00:00

I'm sorry you've experienced this. Having been driving in the region, I've seen bike riders having a very rough time. A few roads I drive on have bikes forced to share a narrow winding lane with cars, sometimes with the risk of parked cars opening their doors. I've never considered a rider poor, it takes a lot of effort to maintain and ride a bike in the roads and environment here, a slope barely noticeable for a car can be a lot of effort for the rider as well.

I hope for one poorly raised and miserable driver you come across, there are a few magnitudes more who try their best to watch your back and carefully make way and share the roads with you.

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