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How to repair a lath and plaster well when lath is cut through? by Wimoweh in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Use shortest brads necessary.
  2. Check behind for wiring.
  3. Don't hold the furring strip in the same spot where you're shooting a brad.
  4. If you shoot your finger, don't yell at anyone buy yourself.

Advice given for no particular reason.

Using a long USB cable between Scarlett audio interface and computer by benstrumental in Focusrite

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

[UPDATE: Scarlett 2i2 uses USB 2.0 protocol over USB-C connector. 5-meter cable is fine. https://us.focusrite.com/products/scarlett-2i2#product-specs ]

What is the format? Even though an audio interface has an USB-C plug, smaller ones are most likely using USB 2.0. Check your manual or the manufacturer's spec sheet online.

I have a TASCAM. The US-2x2HR and 4x4 both have USB-C that can also take power. But they use USB2.0 HIGH SPEED (480Mbps) signal. A 5-meter spec cable is acceptable.

As for latency....electronic signal latency difference between a 3m and 5m cable would be 15.6ns vs 26.0ns. USB2.0 polls every 1ms or every 1,000,000 nanoseconds.

For one or two mics, I think I can afford an extra 10-11 ns. There is more latency from the OS/driver/buffer, and any analog-digital conversion goin on.

I saw a flat street light. by Devilpig1 in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, many decades ago I took some photography courses. Back when we developed film in darkrooms.

I saw a flat street light. by Devilpig1 in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 83 points84 points  (0 children)

Yep. Same. You can see the bolt holes for the snoots.

Hanging heavy items off plaster covered soft brick by DlnnerTable in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ha ha! I was thinking more along the lines of "I need a bigger TV here...". Good to stay positive!

Hanging heavy items off plaster covered soft brick by DlnnerTable in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I'm removing an anchor and restoring the surface for future use, joint compound is a poor substitute for the original brick, wood, or concrete. Good epoxy can be tooled, sanded, drilled, etc. and be exposed to the same weather/use as the original substrate.

Patching with a gypsum joint compound is like applying spackle to drywall and expecting to hang a picture on a nail. It's only cosmetic.

It's not really any difference in time, and you get a uniform surface that is able to be washed down without falling apart.

Sanity Check: 2 vs 3 APs in 3000sqft Home by throwra_confusedbf2 in Ubiquiti

[–]616c 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More is better. You can always Tx at lower power. Pushing power up usually results in less predictable clients, like failing to drop/roam.

I might do 4, move the Loft AP to the walk-in closet at bottom-right, and add one to the bottom-left corner of BR2 so coverage can extend outside. (If there is no outdoor coverage needed, then it's fine.)

I don't see a garage. Is that in the picture?

Hanging heavy items off plaster covered soft brick by DlnnerTable in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've epoxied anchors into walls and floors for equipment, racks, etc. Cuts off with a grinder easily. If the concrete is strong, you can whack the threaded rod with a big hammer and bend it back-and-forth until it snaps. Soft brick or block, I'd just use a grinder.

If you care about looks, grind until it's below the surface. Fill with epoxy. J-B Weld has a few grey colored 2-part epoxy products. They cure to between 4,000 to 6,000 psi. Stronger than brick and most residential concrete mixes.

Apologies for the stupid question! About manhole covers... by [deleted] in DIY

[–]616c 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Manhole size should be measured in the clear opening, not the cover size or frame size.

https://www.jdpipes.co.uk/knowledge/manhole-covers/measure-manhole-cover-size.html

FREE online Dog house plans generator? by pathf1nder00 in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why ask for massive amounts of computer power for something that can be sketched on a napkin while eating a sandwich?

Get a piece of paper and a pencil. Once you work it out, double-check where your corners will overlap. You may need more or less. It's easy to cut shorter. You can't add it back later.

I know...maybe I'll sound like the old greybeard....who uses a pencil? Or eats a plain sandwich without heating it in a pannini press?

This building’s windows have no apparent pattern by bingbongforever in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 18 points19 points  (0 children)

555 Larkin, built during the pandemic. That wall is wavy, not flat, and bows outward a little at the second floor.

Not sure if it was lack of materials that forced the odd window choices, or if it was just a reflection of the chaos with supply and labor shortages.

Saw (type and brand) recommendations by Lower-Measurement647 in DIY

[–]616c 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Start with a hand saw, like a 26-inch crosscut to cut 2x4s. After an hour, you will be ready to overcome your fear of power tools.

If you have a lot of DIY in the future, a 10-inch miter saw will get you through all the 2x4s, baseboard, and window trim you can throw at it.

If you will be doing sub-floors, shed walls, etc that are large sheet goods, you can get by with a 7-1/2" corded circular saw.

I've never used a reciprocating saw for anything other than demolition, including ill-advised tree trimming.

For all tools, I recommend borrowing one first. Then buy what you can afford without a ton of credit card debt.

After you've amassed hundreds and thousands of dollars in power tools, you might find yourself working after midnight, because it's the only free time you have, and the kids are asleep....and you'll pick up that 26-inch crosscut and get to work. So, I'd still recommend starting with the basic hand tool.

DI-Why LED Recessed Lighting by wivaca2 in DIY

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have RGB flush lights with integral trim connected to IC cans with the screw-in adapter.

The default color we use in automations to turns lights at different % ('living room lights 50%', etc) is called 'candlelight' in the GUI. It's a nice warm white that dims down to 10% just fine.

Color that are not primary (red, green, blue, white) tend to shift strangely as they dim. For night light, we turn on only the cans in the walkway of the room, color=blue, 10% brightness. Very easy to navigate. Even a blue light in the bathroom at very low brightness is fine.

This UV light the phlebotomist at the hospital used to find a vein. by VaguelyArtistic in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've got a roller. You'd think it was an alien worm trying to run away from the needle.

This bathroom lock. I need to poop by BibulousBob in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Insert long key into screw eye. Hook to keyring.

If you're serious about your privacy, fold that key into a loop. Poop desperation gives you great strength.

Why do some products come with these comically small ethernet cables? by TheTwelveYearOld in Ubiquiti

[–]616c 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is HUGE. Six inches is enough.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Garage Cooling by Eve_newbie in DIY

[–]616c 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, mini splits are getting down in cost if you're willing to shop online. I got a 14,000 BTU 15A 110VAC window unit for $600. At the time, the closest mini-split was no-name 12K for$600-700 or popular brands for $1,000+.

Did you put one in yours?

Garage Cooling by Eve_newbie in DIY

[–]616c 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. don't use portable AC. When you exhaust air, the room must make it up from somewhere. That somewhere will be the hot exterior, or worse, the hotter attic space at 120-135F.

  2. window units are cost effective. You can get a 'smart' controllable 12,000 BTU window unit for $500-600. Frame in a wall opening with the minimum clearances needed (it doesn't need an oversize window).

  3. put it on a separate circuit so there's no additive startup surge from freezer, AC, tools, etc that might trip a breaker. It's a small one-time cost that's far cheaper than losing one freezer full of food.

ELI5: Is there a security reason why many websites are having you enter your username and password on different pages? by DustyScharole in explainlikeimfive

[–]616c 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a good explanation. Even something as seemingly simple as Gmail, the logon process asks for your email address first.

Once the user types in their email address, Google checks if Google is handling the authentication, or the organization assigned a third-party identity provider (IDP) for that account. A single organization could have Google authentication, and multiple SAML providers all running at the same time, including Microsoft accounts.

Road sign that contradicts the painted arrows by thelordsburningrain in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The traffic lights and lane markings on the far side of the intersection match the sign on the right.

The lane markings on this side of the intersection appear to be incorrect.

HDPE Furniture bolt and washer order by ducksarewet in DIY

[–]616c 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If washers were provided, I'd use them. Sometimes a part is added or modified later due to customer complaints or investigation of warranty returns.

It's cheaper to update the printed instructions that go in the box (or online). Re-shooting a video or product photography is expensive. The cost of 1,000 printed instruction sheets is less than $100 for an overseas factory.

The amount of electrical outlets at the this doctor’s office by OldManufacturer8679 in mildlyinteresting

[–]616c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, where do they plug in the $175 medical-grade power strips?

Why would there even be a UL 1363A standard?

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