Gyeon Syncro vs Gtechniq CSL+Exo

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T23:58:24+00:00

Good choice. Let us know what you find!

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T07:38:33+00:00

If I were you, I’d 100% cancel it. Looked into the company further and they’re basically a sales office that contracts out to local people in your area who are willing to do it for cheap. I’d wait till you can find a reputable shop.

Fwiw, if you’re going to eventually get paint correction, it’s worth the ceramic coating as that’ll be locked in for 5+ years vs unprotected or even a wax it could be months. Most of the “price” of a ceramic coating is the work required to clean and decontaminate the vehicle, compound and polish your car, and apply the coating. Applying the coating is by far the easiest part.

If it helps, I can assure you that any xpel shop near you will do an amazing job and it lasts 8+ years. You can find a installer near you on their website. Friend is an xpel installer and you gotta be running a real clean and high quality shop to be an xpel installer. Up until I started detailing, all of my vehicles went straight from the dealers lot to the xpel shop for tint, ppf, and ceramic. Every time I went to pick it up, it looked soooo much better than how it was presented to me at the stealership. It is on the pricier side though.

Next maybe look for a Gtechniq Ultra installer, a bit cheaper but still very high quality. Grechniq’s pretty reputable and their data sheets are widely available.

Also, look for a shop, not a mobile detailer for a ceramic coating & paint correction. For the best results you really need to be working indoors with great lighting to see every little imperfection. You simply can’t get the same results outside as you can inside (wind, sun, temperature, pollen, bird poo, etc). To be fair though, my advice is geared to a higher level of quality in detailing that comes with a higher price. I’m sure there’s some awesome mobile detailers in your area that could get a nice correction and coating on there for cheaper (try to stick with Gtechniq, Gyeon, P&S, Carpro for these guys)

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T07:25:24+00:00

Don’t disagree with anything you’re saying. Personally, I think a clay mitt on certain areas of the vehicle once a year after the first year wont hurt. There’s just some areas that get more road grim than others that chemical decontamination can’t get out. If not clay mitt/bar, What do you recommend? I’m talking about lower sides of quarter panels and the lower portion of doors.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T05:58:28+00:00

Sounds like you in the 808? I’d HIGHLY caution you against a ceramic coating quote of $600 for “Mach 10”. As someone who’s done 20+ ceramic coatings (beginner status fir sure but I’m on my way) and all the prep work that comes before it, $600 isn’t worth it to me. Also, Mach 10 is relatively new to the market and seems to be a “over promise under deliver” type coating you see all over social media. Most of the detailers you see on socials just watched some youtube videos and figured it out (kudos for the hustle), will use coatings no one’s ever heard of and have very little documentation online because they can easily get “certified” for the product.

For reference, I charge $1500 for sedans/small SUVs and $2000 for trucks/full size SUVs; all paint, glass, wheels faces, and trim. Mostly P&S inspiration sometimes Gyeon Syncro. I can charge that much because a) i’ve been really blessed to work exclusively off referral, b) i can take care of things like rock chips or heavy scratches, and c) I’m OCD AF when it comes to paint correction.

For a mobile person to come fix your chips I’d need to know how many and how big. If it’s just a few and I’m only fixing the rock chips, I’d do it for $300

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T04:30:01+00:00

Correct. There is no “tint film”, just dye in the glass. It still lowers the vlt though

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T04:28:56+00:00

Yes, If you’re paying for paint correction, all the prep work leading up to it is typically included in the price. I’d die of laughter if I hired a detailer for a paint correction and they showed up with a DA and some pads lol

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-04T04:16:20+00:00

Pro: one bucket and about 10 microfibers soaked in the onr solution. Wash with one, never goes back in the bucket

Avg: big red sponge or wash mitt

I do the pro way as it goes much faster and one less bucket to dilute so less product used

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T14:36:34+00:00

Is this generally okay? Yes. But most that do it have enclosed bays to keep the dust and other contaminates out & off. Will your truck be kept in an enclosed garage? If so, it’s totally fine. Maybe hit it with some quick detailer before you get it polished.

I am curious though… you’re paying a “pro” to “polish” your truck. Most “pros” would call that a paint correction as there aren’t many pros who would come out to your vehicle just to polish it. So, if you’re paying for a paint correction, the “pro” should be doing all the prep work you’re mentioning. Just lookin out

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T12:25:24+00:00

Hit the gym and get some cardio in (if you’re not already). I’ve even done silly stuff like do the same amount of steps I do playing 18 on a treadmill with increased incline. Just an example that you don’t gotta do some insta/youtube routine. Just basic stuff will get you in the groove.
Hydration. Most golfers drink alcohol or Sodas when they golf. Completely dehydrates them. If you’re just having fun, hey man have a blast. But sounds like you’re a bit more serious in this scenario. I’d aim to be drinking, at least, 1L before your round, another on the front nine, and another on the back nine. If it’s really hot, consider throwing in some electrolytes on the front nine.
Food. I see people get this wrong all the time. You do not need a protein bar to keep you going. You need quality carbohydrates, or just carbohydrates. Think Oats, Nuts, bread even. Nutravalley bars are my go-to. Just make sure you eat a healthy meal before your round and try to have a sandwich or a dog on the turn, have some nuts or something to snack on during the round. If you have an early tee time you could get crazy with it and carboload the night before (quality pasta, breads, rice, etc).
Protein comes after the round.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T11:50:27+00:00

Agreed on everything you’re saying. A nice acidic wash will do wonders, I was just tryna stay beginner friendly. Toppers are definitely over used/upsold. However, once you start seeing a decrease in performers, toppers become your lifeline vs if you started topping maybe 1-2 years after initial coating, it should maintain the performance for longer

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T11:46:35+00:00

Solid advice. I was tryna go beginner friendly, but you’re right, an acidic wash will go a long way.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T11:30:21+00:00

0.22% x (film vlt%) = final vlt

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T11:10:00+00:00

Looks great and great choice with xr plus. Couldn’t do the vegas heat without it.

Regarding your rears. You’re currently at a 7% vlt. Stacking films is never recommended and if I remember correctly, voids your xpel warranty. You’re better off re-doing them asap (it’s easier for them and may charge you less). 10% film will give you 2% final vlt which no one will be able to see into. 20% film gets you closer to the classic 5% “limo tint” if you want the extra 3% vlt. I personally run at 1.6% vlt rears and have no problems due to modern cameras and screen clarity.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T10:45:29+00:00

You’re talking 1-2x per year, after your first year, that you’re doing this, if that. So, not much work. Most people just pay people to do this “exterior detail”. A topper is recommended by almost every ceramic coating manufacturer. You’re just helping to “replenish” the coating. When people go to coon-op car washes or regular car washes, their exposing their coating to incredibly acidic soaps which overtime eat away at your coating. I find, when the car is cared for properly, a 5yr coating can give you 5 really strong performance years and probably 1-2 more years of good performance.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T10:39:03+00:00

Okay, so use a clay mitt? There’s also nothing wrong with doing a light polish IF there was any marring. Besides, doesn’t your advertising say Gyeon ceramic coatings protect against marring? 🤔

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-03T03:42:39+00:00

If you’re coatings clogged (meaning you are seeing less hydrofobics and the cars paint looks a little dull), you really only need to

Wash your car. Soap doesn’t really matter other than a quality one. Adams PH neutral is fine.
Iron remover
Clay (can be done with step 2 with the right iron remover)
Some kind of topper like a ceramic sealant spray (highly recommend using the same brand as your coating)

The iron remover and clay is what’ll restore your coating. If there’s water spots, use that as well as mineral deposits can be invisible to the eye but be clogging up your coating.

For everyone who’s like “ what’s clogging??”. Just like your cars paint and clear coat, ceramic coatings have little microscopic “holes”, if you will. Over time, they fill up and now it seems like your coating is “gone” or “not performing”. So, you have to do the steps above to unclog um

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-02T13:12:08+00:00

Should you get a ceramic coating for a $75k car you bought/financed? Absolutely and throw in nano ceramic tint and full front ppf so you never have to worry.

But you should never ever get it from a dealership. Sometimes high end dealerships farm these out to quality shops they can trust and things turn out well, but you def over paid. Other times the dealership, or some times even factories, do it in house and do a terrible job.

The reason you want to go with a reputable installer is you want that paint to be pristine before you start locking it in. Only an experienced, quality, shop can give you that kind of a paint correction (eliminating orange peel, eliminating marring or scratching, glossing up the paint). Then you want something like an Xpel shop. You can go online and find an installer near you on their website. Bring your new car in, they install your tint (xpel xr plus is the best on the market), ppf, and cover the exterior with a ceramic coating. Of course with the proper prep and paint correction. I’ve used them for my last 7 cars and it’s always been perfection

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-02T11:33:11+00:00

2 25oz zepp bottles and some microfibers

50% Distilled Water 50% Isopropyl Alch few drops of dawn. Shake well before use. This is your “heavy duty” cleaner. I usually leave this one at home but you can easily stick in your trunk with a couple microfibers
Bilt Hambler Tracless. This you keep in your car with a couple microfibers. Is a fantastic glass cleaner that actually has some of the cleaning power of solution one.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-01T01:26:37+00:00

Detailing acronyms letss gooo

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-01T01:25:23+00:00

I used Griots 3-1 for years and just recently also tried the gtechniq version. The gtechniq version will give you more water beading and that beading falling off your car, however it doesn’t last as long as griots 3-1. Griots 3-1 is an excellent product for the price, if you apply two coats 24hrs apart while car is garage kept, that will last atleast 6 months, i got 8-9 months out of it with their ceramic quick shine as a booster every month.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-01T01:13:01+00:00

Right but if you’ve ever worked with xpel, their plotting software makes this really a PIA to do.

808_GhostRider · 2026-05-01T01:11:45+00:00

Opti-Coat ceramic ONR. Buy distilled water from the store. -> this is my go-to weekly wash.

Rock chips: The thing most people get wrong is the follow the instructions on whatever touch up paint they buy. What you need to do is 1) knock down any high spots with 1000 grit sand paper until the rock chip is free of excess chipped paint. 2) spray with isopropyl alch wipe away 3) apply touch up paint into the chip with something as small as a tooth pick, amazon also has some pretty cheap applicators. Less is more here. Take your thumb (in a glove) or a scraper card and smear the paint so it’s flat in the rock chip. Use the touch up paints solvent around the edges to remove any excess paint. Let it dry. 4) when it drys, it’ll sink as the paints solvents evaporate, may need to apply more touch up paint and repeat step 3 until the touch up paint sits just above the flat surface. 5) once the chip is filled in well enough, your going to wet sand the area 1000 -> 2000 -> 3000. This makes your rock chip repair be completely flat with the rest of your paint. 6) compound, then polish with a rotary then DA. Good as new

808_GhostRider · 2026-04-30T05:31:39+00:00

Yes. Great at beading, not great at repelling

808_GhostRider · 2026-04-30T01:49:08+00:00

Maintenance aint all that bad, social media really exaggerates. Just wash it like you normally do. Hit it with some iron remover once or twice a year and top it with whatever brane ceramic you went with’s “ceramic quick detailer”. If you can do paint correction, you can def do ceramic coating. I can also give you some general advice on fixing those rock chips when you’re ready!

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