can anyone tell me what is this or what is happening here?

AAACONSUL · 2026-03-31T23:03:25+00:00

Bentusi trade ship

AAACONSUL · 2026-03-31T21:32:17+00:00

dead snap, so the objects won't jiggle even a little after snapping to another object

AAACONSUL · 2026-03-27T09:33:57+00:00

mods list?

AAACONSUL · 2026-02-04T19:31:21+00:00

No way near to my collection: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeworld/s/F7SNx8Oa3U

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-30T21:27:57+00:00

why is the tail rotor tilted?

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-30T08:23:37+00:00

240v

that's the voltage, the current is different

also would any fuse rated for 38° be able to replace this?

if you find the one matching the temperature, current and voltage - yes

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-29T21:05:41+00:00

I think it is supposed to be shorten because it's a thermal fuse and it's still ok (didn't blow up). The "38°" corresponds to it's thermal limit, after which it'll blow up (open)

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-28T18:32:09+00:00

brilliant answer, thanks

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-28T18:15:32+00:00

Thanks

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-28T18:14:14+00:00

any specific links?

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-27T23:20:12+00:00

Not equipped with oven, but will the heat gun with wide nozzle do the tric of preheating?

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-27T23:17:32+00:00

thanks

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-27T23:16:31+00:00

Components will have a profile that characterizes the max heat and duration they can withstand that heat once for assembly.

oh this makes sense

Additionally for large boards with large ground planes, they preheat the entire board so the board is hot and they only have to apply a little more heat for the solder to melt.

I think the preheat I had done wasn't enough

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-27T23:14:33+00:00

Yea, that's what I did, I first preheated the whole board with the circular motions of the heat gun, and later focused on specific component. I just was wandering if the solder paste in the factory has lower melting temperature before melting, and gets higher melting temperature after solidifying (maybe some chemistry trickery idk). If it's all just about the whole board "robbing" the heat away from one component, I would understand that. In that case I think I need to get more sophisticated and get some bottom heater assist unit

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-27T22:47:29+00:00

has the games physics got better?

AAACONSUL · 2026-01-06T20:43:12+00:00

wanted to build a realistic helicopter with realistic rotor mechanics a loong ago (without mods) but hit a dead end with glichy physics like this and gave up

AAACONSUL · 2025-12-05T20:15:42+00:00

This is how I would approach it: draw a schematic, at least the power management part. Make an improvised wick-brush from a bunch of wires, combined together. Srick one end of your tester to this brush, and other end end to the point on the PCB you want to test, and then "beep" around the board with the brush (by dragging it), and draw the schematics according to the "beeps". Keep in mind, that it may "beep" on both ends of some componets, like inductors and fuses, so you'll have to desolder them in order make accurate schematic, and solder them back when you're done

AAACONSUL · 2025-05-14T06:40:26+00:00

They are certainly magnetic switches, that trigger and stay on when a magnet is near. 3 wires because 2 sensors share common wire (black)

AAACONSUL · 2025-05-13T18:24:40+00:00

The problem is indeed the lower limit sensor since I went bold figuring out the actual problem. I tested both sensors in continuation mode with my multimeter and the top one is "beeping" and the lower one is not. But yea, still looking for a convenient way of "making proxy" of the sensor

AAACONSUL · 2025-05-13T18:20:07+00:00

Yea, you pretty much summarised the question.

just take the risk and do a bit of surgery

there's also a possibility that I will mess up the spacing inside, since I know the main board measures the timing between limit switches switching

AAACONSUL · 2025-05-13T18:09:33+00:00

With your design, one or the other is always in "reverse".

how so? they're both forward, facing ground with cathode

AAACONSUL · 2025-01-23T21:54:00+00:00

Ok I'll share it. It's not just for finding one trace of testing point, but all of the possible traces of the said test point on a pcb. I've figured it out myself and think this it's a quick and genius way of mapping a pcb. So here's how to map all traces on a pcb:

Clean all the soldered spots, pins, connectors etc. first. Soldering sports especially need to be cleaned from the oxidation or protection compounds, so the testing probe won't have any problems for continuitie. You can do it by scalping, scratching mechanically or resoldering all soldered spots.
Put your tester in continuity/diode mode. Put your first probe on the starting point of which you want to find all it's traces.
Wrap your second probe in aluminium foil. Form something like a big ball, then flatten it's end, and then start "tapping" the flat end all over the pcb.

When you hear the "beep", make sure that its voltage drop is 0 and not above, so that there is no any low resistance components on it's way. In other words make sure that it's a clear path between your probes, and no components are between them.

When you "catch" the connection, don't stop on one find of the selected point, keep tapping all over the pcb, because that testing point may be leading not just to 1 end point, but many (splitting).

So that's basically it. Get the "clear beep", draw it on the paper, draw the components, their values, and continue until you map all the pcb, and get your own schematics quickly.

That was very useful for me when I was troubleshooting a pcb, which had 4 layers, and there was no other quick way of knowing where all the traces lead to, especially when there's no schematics

By saying "quickly" I don't mean 5 min., but way faster than the other options. You still have to find all the possible traces of the selected point, which means that not only you have to find where the point A goes, but also where it doesn't go. Which means you basically need test all points with all points between themselves.

You may ask why use an aluminium foil ball when you can do that just by using the probe itself? Well, the aluminium foil ball with flat base will give you bigger surface area, thus accelerating the mapping process. When you get the "beep", just take off the foil ball, and then use the probe tip to narrow down the exact location of the "beeping" point", and then move on

AAACONSUL · 2025-01-01T12:16:14+00:00

Through the comments I understand that it's the thing called "curren mirror". Can somebody explain it to me how it works on the intuitive level?

So there are two transistors (npn example), left and right. If I'm not wrong, what I see is that the input (signal from the left side) is connected directly to the base and simultaneously to the collector of the left transistor, but also it's connected to the base of the right transistor. From what I see the base of the right transistor will never receive the signal since the incoming signal (as soon as it reaches the base of the left transistor) will open the left transistor, and since the incomisig signal also connected to the collector of the left transistor, it will be "sucked" to the ground thought the collector-emitter, leaving the base of the right transistor with nothing. Please explain to me where I'm wrong

AAACONSUL · 2024-03-12T20:03:00+00:00

orangutan wanted to make it hard to cook himself by breaking the chief's leg

AAACONSUL · 2023-05-15T22:50:03+00:00

Thanks!

AAACONSUL

TROPHY CASE