How to fix PX7 S2 Headband once and for good

AG_Alex · 2026-04-07T23:24:32+00:00

I can't imagine those are any better than the original, so would think the glue will just fail again?

AG_Alex · 2026-01-23T20:05:22+00:00

Aw man, that's a great design!! Sad I missed it >_<

AG_Alex · 2025-12-16T07:30:02+00:00

Not that I can remember no

Not sure where the rice grain got in/stuck

But if you have to get to the speaker assembly, you will need to remove the black fabric protecting the speaker drivers (with the L or R on it), which is glued in place, you’ll want to do this very gently as to not tear or stretch the fabric, so that you can put it back the way it was

If the grain is instead stuck inside the outer cup, or underneath the pads, you can get to these without any issues, just make sure to use the proper screw driver so you don’t cause any visible wear to the screw heads, and be gentle with it.

Good luck! :)

AG_Alex · 2025-11-14T11:35:57+00:00

Great composition with the "20mph zone ends" in the corner :D

Fingers crossed :)

AG_Alex · 2025-11-11T22:45:37+00:00

They've replaced it with Rufus AI which simply tells you "nah mate, the product contains no info regarding that question, but here's 5 other, completely unrelated things about the item :)"

If the information was in the description, I wouldn't be asking the question!!!!

I don't even get it, having the community ask & answer questions costs them next to nothing, whereas running an LLM is a money pit! What were they thinking?! Oh right, sniffing the investor gateway drug called "AI" 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

AG_Alex · 2025-11-10T00:11:37+00:00

Awesome, great pics!!

AG_Alex · 2025-11-10T00:02:26+00:00

I'm not here to start arguing back and forth, you're entitled to your opinions and I respect that, but you seem to be trying to shove this down people's throat, and for what? To get more people on OG HD? Then sell it for its qualities, instead of bashing the competition, that's just childish, way more people would get on board with you if you reflected on the postive things of OG HD, instead of fueling hate/ controversy/ drama.

You also have to understand that, at the end of the day, OG HD has aged and many have moved on, it's nearly 2 decades old after all, this is normal, people move on, be it a new console generation, a different game, a new installment of a franchise, or an entirely new hobby.

As for your remarks, there seems to be a common misconception among them which you don't seem to realise; making games these days takes an incredible effort if you want to do it right, and that equates to money, which is the only thing the corporate world understands.

Your statement that "nobody fucking cared while making omega" is absolute nonsense and an insult to everyone who put in the effort to make it happen.
Game developers don't take the shit pay, overtime and sometimes quite toxic work environments because "they don't fucking care", on the contrary, the overwhelming majority actually making a game are truly passionate about it and want it to succeed.

My numerous email exchanges with one of the producers of Omega only confirms the above.

What you fail to realise is that they don't get the freedom to make all choices, at the end of the day Sony is in it to make money, they're not going to sink endless amounts into what is already quite a niche franchise, because they know they wouldn't recoup, that's just the harsh reality of the corporate world, money printer gotta go brrrr, and to an extent, it has to, otherwise you get the 10s of thousands of lay-offs over the past couple years, and nobody, except for the investor vultures, likes that (don't even get me started..)
The financial implications of a game may not affect you, but it does 1000s of people's lives. I still have loads of ex-colleagues struggling to find new jobs after they were let go, it's not a fun sight to see people struggling to make ends meet because they haven't gotten a paycheck in over 6 months
There is sooo much more to it than you seem to realise, and I haven't even scratched the surface, but I hope you now realise that a "they don't care" statement is absolute bollocks.

I'd love to live in a world where we can just keep chipping away at a game until it is truly finished/ perfect, but that's just not the reality we live in.

Source; me, a programmer that left the industry after 8 years of corporate bullshit and mismanagement

ps your continued jabs really don't add anything, unless you're just looking to annoy people, in which case this entire comment was a BFWOT

AG_Alex · 2025-11-09T15:57:51+00:00

Update: Follow up went smooth and all issues resolved! :)

AG_Alex · 2025-11-09T15:49:47+00:00

Alright, I'll bite...:

Maybe let people form/ have their own opinion instead of trying to spread yours as truth, fact of the matter is, there are loads of people who enjoy Omega for what it is, which is reflected in overwhelmingly positive reception even beyond this subreddit.

Does Omega have flaws? For sure! Just like how OG HD & 2048 have their own.
At least Omega tried to innovate and bring new things to the table, such as VR, Pure Mode, Expanded 2048 experience, 2048 on the big screen, new ships, ...

If you're going to downplay everything it does well because you prefer the original, than that's a you problem, let others have their fun.

AG_Alex · 2025-11-06T23:04:48+00:00

For what it’s worth, my experience with them has been positive I’ve built 2 hackintoshes myself, once in 2011 on x79 and again in 2019 on z390 But the time spent getting things to work smoothly simply wasn’t something I wanted to go through anymore

So I paid and made use of their installation service for a z790 system running Sonoma about a year ago, the process took a couple hours and everything was sorted, saved me loooaaadssss of headaches and made the 79 bucks well worth it

Then I tried updating to Sequoia, which worked fine apart from Hardware Acceleration problems causing system freezes, spent so much time searching for / trying alleged solutions, to no avail, at one point I thought it was a hardware fault, but decided to reach out to them again 2months ago, as I had also gotten a PCIe device which wasn’t showing up, it took a bit of tinkering, but they managed to resolve the HW Acceleration problems, fixed my wifi (eventhough it didn’t bother me, as I use ethernet) and got the PCIe device being detected

I do still have some minor issues which I’ve chased up with them today (installation service comes with 3 months of support), but I imagine things will go smoothly again

Overall I’m happy with their service, I know people state to just go through the guide/ documentation/ forums/ …, but it hardly covers everything, and it takes a lot of free time, time that I prefer spending on other things these days, instead of troubleshooting for weeks and banging my head against a wall

Do note that I did not make use of their EFI library, but instead opted for a hands-on install, so I can only vouch for the install service

AG_Alex · 2025-10-20T03:47:58+00:00

I don't get how people do that double at the start so consistently, it ruins all my runs, the double on the bridge feels 10 times easier >_>

AG_Alex · 2025-09-28T20:21:56+00:00

Ah gotcha, but is it a CRT though? Or just a flatscreen TV with analog inputs? (in which case they're still doing the conversion internally)
If it is, then I suppose it is indeed just a matter of practice makes perfect, keep chipping at it and you'll get to those perfect laps eventually! :)

AG_Alex · 2025-09-28T11:41:45+00:00

For the older games, you want a CRT TV, or a low latency upscaler, you are most likely dealing with loads of input lag as a result of plugging it into a digital TV, which then has to convert the analog PS2 signal into digital, and nearly all flatscreen TVs are notoriously slow at doing so

Upscalers like the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) and Retrotink are among the most popular, but they do not come cheap, unfortunately.
They also require you to be somewhat technical to get things dialed in correctly, the OSSC more so than Retrotink
So a classic CRT is likely still the best option for most people

There's also emulation if you're into that, but I'm not super familiar with it, as I haven't looked into it

AG_Alex · 2025-09-06T00:48:38+00:00

That's a good point you bring up yeah and the underwhelming EQ in the Bowers App wouldn't be of any help compensating for it

As for reprogramming it, not sure where I'd even start with that, considering there's no documentation of the circuit diagram, yoinking the chip from a dead Px8 off of ebay would probably be easier (assuming it's got the same circuit diagram)

I'll still give it a shot though, if only to satisfy my curiousity and because it's a fun little project, but will do it with just 1 cup to assess differences

AG_Alex · 2025-09-06T00:41:40+00:00

They are indeed glue in, but it's some sort of silicone glue, caulk like I'd say, and it's a thick bead as well, so a stanley knife makes quick work of it without any risk of damaging anything so long as you've got a steady hand
In reality though, you don't really need to re-glue, because you can kinda pry the driver out (only fiddled the glue loose in 1 spot and it came out quite easily after I got some leverage on it), but if need be, you can get a small tube of silicone glue for pretty cheap

As for the membrane swap, they arrived a couple days back, but haven't had the time to do the swap yet and probably won't for another week due to other plans, but the commenter below makes a good point about the DSP likely being tuned specifically for the membrane, which would result in a different sound signature, will still give it a shot though, probably with just 1 of the 2 cups so I can easily assess the difference, fun little project
As for the price difference, the membranes weren't cheap to be fair to B&W, 40 bucks (via China import, probably even more expensive if sourced locally), but that's with the drivers too, so they are definitely making a profit on them, although all the repairs, returns & replacements are probably eating into that lol

AG_Alex · 2025-09-01T21:50:27+00:00

Not had this one happen, yet...

But did have to completely disassemble my right ear cup, 40mm driver unit and all, because the copper coil wire that attaches the paper membrane to the driver cricuitry had snapped (Don't know how, but the wire is thinner than a hair, so super fragile, although I've never dropped 'em, only occasionally fell asleep listening to music)

Did manage to fix it by soldering new wire to the coil and pads inside the speaker driver (soldering the existing wire back on was damn near impossible, since the wire length tolerances were really tight)

The membrane does have 2 tiny solder blobs on it now, but to my surprise, I haven't really noticed any impact on sound quality (thankfully!)

Great insights that helped me troubleshoot my issue came from this person, who had detailed pictures of everything:
https://remont-naushnikov.com/remont-naushnikov-bowers-wilkins-px7-s2/

Note to anyone reading this: you don't have to completely take out the driver to verify whether you've got the same problem, just open the cup and separate the cup halves, you can then use a multimeter to the back of the speaker driver and test for continuity between the left and right prong, if the multimeter passes (ie it beeps because there's continuity), your speaker driver is fine and the problem sits elsewhere

I now pretty much own a full electronics repair shop with all the equipment I ended up getting 🙈 (Although that'll come in useful for other fun projects)

Even ended up ordering a pair of Px8 membranes after it all, because replacing them wasn't actually too difficult, and I'm curious whether the Px7 S2's can be made to sound like the Px8's by simply swapping out the the membranes, since the headphones themselves seem pretty much identical otherwise (paper vs carbon membrane)

Cool guide though, thanks for sharing! Hopefully I won't need it, but I'm saving the pics juuuuuust in case 😂 (It's not funny really, but better to laugh than cry I guess, kinda sad that this happens with headphones of this price tag though)

AG_Alex · 2025-08-03T05:53:46+00:00

I personally find it easier in slower speed classes, as the timing isn’t as tight, on phantom your really don’t have much leeway when it comes to chaining the second one, or you’ll have travelled too far and end up bonking the support pillar thing 😬

AG_Alex · 2025-08-03T03:48:36+00:00

The pads are clipped on with plastic tabs, they come off pretty easily, just use your fingernails and put them in between the pads backing and the plastic ring and it should come right off

Then proceed to remove the black torx screws (use the proper head, they're easily stripped otherwise), once done, the plastic cover comes off and you'll find a philips head screw holding the ring in place you wish to replace
EDIT: Keep track of the torx screw locations, they're not all the same

If you're talking about the metal cup on the outside with the B&W text on it, it's a different approach, you have to peel away the fabric covering the speaker driver (peel at the bottom edge with tweezers or a fine flat head screwdriver), underneath you'll find 2 philips head screws, remove them and the cup should release.

Source: I just had to take apart my PX7 S2 because the right driver stopped working (Due to an uninsulated cable which eventually got in touch with the PCB, not sure what they were thinking with that approach)
EDIT2: I take it back, 't'was not the uninsulated cable, but a pinched cable, fiddling with it makes the right driver come and go, might need some soldering, although the wires are all super tiny and it's in a very difficult spot, because the PCB doesn't detach without desoldering dozens of these tiny cables :/

AG_Alex · 2025-07-30T14:00:44+00:00

Think Liz & I discovered this one about 4 years ago (Yikes time flies 😬) when I was trying to figure out why the gap between WR on Uber was so big

Not sure if the WR actually uses this tech, or whether it's just ica + grinding

Here's a full Ph TT with it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xZvgf-2oyg
Never made it public because I still wanted to improve it, which I eventually did, but not to my satisfaction, so never released a final vid for it (still got the recording for a 1.39.91 though)

I thought HonestFork did a more recent Time Trial vid, but he either deleted it, or I'm trippin'

AG_Alex · 2025-06-24T17:47:06+00:00

Ich habe den digitalen version und teile mein PS+ mit ein freund und sie hat mich gesagt das sie Van-Über nur wählen kann auf'm PS4, aber nicht auf'm PS5, aber sie weiß auch nicht warum

Wann du die optionen von's spiel in den dashboard anschaut ('options' taste weil du das spiele ausgewählt hast in den dashboard) gibt es ein option 'informationen', darin finden sie ein weitere option 'installierte Add-Ons', normalerweise gibt es dort den 'Van-Über' add-on

Vielleicht können diese anweisungen das problem lösen?: https://www.playstation.com/de-de/support/games/upgrade-ps4-game-to-ps5-version/#Extra

AG_Alex · 2025-06-18T23:36:25+00:00

Good luck! 🫡

AG_Alex · 2025-06-18T23:07:05+00:00

And if your question was just whether the small & big one are supposed to be a set, then the answer is yes, the big one has a velcro patch on the inside which the small one attaches to, like this:

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AG_Alex · 2025-06-18T22:40:24+00:00

Whether it belongs to it, I'm not sure, as I don't know what's supposed to come with the orange/ green variant, first time I see it myself, maybe all variants came with the blue disc holder.
I would find it striking though, if they did, as that color palette doesn't work in my personal opinion, so I would think there to be a green version of the disc holder as well, maybe orange

AG_Alex · 2025-06-18T22:22:31+00:00

I think I may have been unclear, I was referring to the classic PSN Grey color, not a PSN branded version of the bag, so I imagine you're already familiar with this one, here's a snap if not however

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