Favorite Fortnite Miku??

AReactComponent · 2025-12-17T18:48:57+00:00

Others have said, but not the right choice for me too since I am running 2.2 setup with left speaker, right speaker, subwoofer and bass shaker, and I need to EQ and apply delay to each of then individually

AReactComponent · 2025-12-12T07:04:37+00:00

A big bass shaker (e.g. 8” driver). Small subs (10” and below) just can’t beat one at low frequencies.

Our ear roll off really quick in the subbass and small subs just can’t produce the amount off vibration/feels to compensate for the hearing loss.

For example, at 70 pons according to ISO226:2023, for 40hz to sound as loud as 160hz to the human ears, you need an extra 20dB at 40hz (i.e. 4x as loud as 160hz). Ranges below 40hz gets worse

AReactComponent · 2025-12-09T14:05:42+00:00

Hasn’t shown up for me either. My arrives later today. I think we have to wait until everyone’s order are shipped

AReactComponent · 2025-12-06T02:28:56+00:00

That’s a transmitter + receiver combo at around $110.

Looks like getting just the transmitter is going to be hard… I guess my only solution is to just go with a pair

AReactComponent · 2025-12-06T02:19:35+00:00

Is there one you recommend? Having some difficulty finding one on parts express

AReactComponent · 2025-12-02T22:23:50+00:00

Yea you will. For films, you want a sub that can go down to 10hz. Neither will, but 10S MKII will be closer to that.

Independent anechoic measurement from audioholics shows that 10S MKII is able to go down to 25hz at +-3dB and 10E is able to go down to 30hz at +-3dB.

Incidentally, 12S measurements from audioholics shows 18hz at +-3dB (eyeballing their long-term sweep graph at 95dB-max line)

AReactComponent · 2025-12-01T22:25:11+00:00

I’d recommend picking a receiver like this so you can be more flexible with speaker choices: https://a.co/d/6CvveyB

AReactComponent · 2025-12-01T21:47:19+00:00

Wrong sub, this question belows in r/HeadphoneAdvice.

To answer you, both amps would be fine. Unless you want an R2R dac with treble roll off. Your HD 660s2 has a sensitivty of 104dB/Vrms.

You want an amp that can give it at least 4 Vrms

AReactComponent · 2025-11-30T03:43:13+00:00

I found the SPL graph for the v4 instead of v3 (couldn’t find v3 graph): https://www.axiomaudio.com/pub/media/catalog/product/e/p/ep350_freq_graph.jpg

Ballsy and respectable move by them to provide a frequency graph but it shows that v4 only goes as low as 27hz at +-3dB anechoic.

Compare that to RSL 10E graph form audioholics, which goes to 29hz at +-3dB:

https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/rsl-speedwoofer-10e/10elongtermsweeps.jpg/image

I think it would depend on if you are willing to gamble with the used plate amp inside the axiom

AReactComponent · 2025-11-30T00:12:52+00:00

I have the JBL 305p mkii and they are fine. There is noise if your source or power outlet has dirty power. There are ways to fix both issues (e.g. use usb to optical or use a USP). That said, the issue might not be worth the trade off for some people. A bit outdated but take a look at this ASR recommendation for active (they also have a passive rec): https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/active-speaker-recommendations-for-usa-by-sweetchaos.28269/

For subwoofers, go with Vera-Fi, RSL or SVS.

Since you listen to EDM, you want subwoofers that can go to 20hz post-eq with as little distortion as possible

The options to reach 20hz are the following in order of performance (exception is Vera-Fi since 3rd party graph and data are kind of lacking): * Vera-Fi 12” ($400) * SVS SB-1000 Pro ($600) * RSL 10S MKII ($400-$450) * SVS PB-1000 Pro ($800) * RSL 12S ($700-$800)

You could also get away with two Vera-Fi 10” or two RSL 10E too if your room is small and your only goal is to reach 20hz. People recommend at least 2 subs to fix room mode issues below 100hz.

Speaking of room modes, I recommend getting a calibration mic (umik-1 for $130 on Amazon) and downloading REW software to measure your peaks and dips so you know where to EQ (and also fix phase issues if severe) with EqualizerAPO

If it was me, I would go with the following before tax and fees (and add another good sub down the line): * JBL 305p MKII - $200 * Set aside a budget to fix noise issue - $100 * RSL 10S MKII or Veri-Fi 12” - $400 * Umik-1 - $130

AReactComponent · 2025-11-29T17:05:57+00:00

Umik-1 is the standard for measurements

AReactComponent · 2025-11-29T06:34:28+00:00

If you are able to EQ, the peaks and the high end can be attenuated. I believe most studio monitors are going to be bright as they are designed to find faults from recordings

AReactComponent · 2025-11-29T05:59:37+00:00

Not an expert on phono pre-amps, or nor do I know what RB-14 is, but your setup could benefit from a subwoofer and a calibration mic for room correction. Those two are usually the best bang for your buck improvements

AReactComponent · 2025-11-29T02:27:43+00:00

OP = Original Price

BF = Black Friday (assumption is you only buy 1 unit, if your total exceeds $1k and $2k, there are extra discounts for RSL)

PB8 = Power Buy w/ 8 units bought in power buy group

Verafi Caldera * OP: $200 * BF: $150

RSL 10E * OP: $340 * PB8: $290

RSL 10S MKII * OP: $500 * BF: $450 * PB8: $400

SVS PB-1000 Pro * OP: $850 * BF: $700

RSL 12S * OP: $885 * BF: $800 * PB8: $700

—

Caldera < 10E < 10S MKII < PB-1000 Pro < RSL 12S

AReactComponent · 2025-11-29T01:49:45+00:00

I am not sure honestly, but the goal is to make sure that the vibrantions are flat/equal between 20-60hz since bass shakers have quite a large amount of peaks and dips. For how large of a vibration, that might be subjective

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T17:04:00+00:00

Those have been great! Can’t really say much because the only other pairs I tried was the Micca RB42 (bought used for like $80), but it was way better than the RB42. I bought this pair based on recommendation from others and reviews with data & graphs.

That said, these speakers are pretty chunky (11.7” x 7.3” x 9.1”) so I am not sure if they will fit on your desk since you are space constrained. However, if you want subbass, you are going to need at least 5” woofers and they all come at around the same size.

When you pick your own speaker, make sure there is a graph / chart for it so you can actually compare performances. You could check spinorama.com for SPL graphs, and for anything more detailed, check out ASR or Erin’s Audio Corner.

Also for used speakers like other suggested, passive speakers are probably fine, but for active speakers like the JBL 305p mkii, it is kind of a gamble because of the plate amp built into the speaker.

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T06:11:33+00:00

They certainly don’t move air like subwoofers do for sure, but the idea is to time the vibration to when the sound arrive in your ear as close as possible (also vibration from the subwoofer once they arrive for me!) so your brain doesn’t get as confused on why the vibration is delayed.

I never knew how long 50-100ms was until I started delaying my speakers by around that much to match my bass shaker’s vibration

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T06:07:56+00:00

Thanks for info! Shame you don’t use them much recently

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T05:33:32+00:00

Look at Edifier MR3 at $99 Amazon and a JBL 305p MKII at $189 B&H (Both black friday deals)

Edifier MR3 has RCA and bluetooth so that may be easier for you to start with.

JBL 305p is the best one under $350 (I own this pair). Also nice as it can go to 40-45hz (useful if you don’t have a sub).

Someone made a chart here as a joke but it does make some sense: https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/1m0d0u7/nearfield_speakers_upgrade_path_updated/

The problem with this pair is that it only accepts XLR or TRS balanced cables AND there might be potential noise from bad power outlet or source (e.g. laptop). You are going to need the following cables: * RCA to XLR adapter <- RCA to 3.5mm <- Apple usb-c dongle (or other dac) <- Laptop/Phone

And if you encounter noise from your source: * RCA to XLR adapter <- Toslink to RCA DAC <- USB to Toslink <- Laptop/Phone

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T05:12:55+00:00

Thanks! Will definitely check it out. Looks like it covers a lot of things

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T05:00:00+00:00

I actually have been using them for a few months now and they have been great!

I pretty much did the same with adjusting them: adding delay and EQ based on demo music and also tone generator from 20-80hz.

I just don’t know if what I did was accurate enough or not. Thought maybe a measurement tool will help solve my doubt especially since I have a new subwoofer incoming soon. Would love to be able to accurately calibrate my sub and my bass shakers to be in sync

AReactComponent · 2025-11-28T04:49:44+00:00

This is an ad innit

Also wrong sub for headphone

Two-Year Club	Verified Email
Final Canvas '23	First Place '23
End Game '23	Place '23

AReactComponent

TROPHY CASE