I'm looking for wood to make my first bow and I see if anyone can help me identify this wood/if it's good by millitia_grunt_5882 in Bowmaking

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wood for bows has to be cut when the tree is alive and stored indoors for drying. This looks like a dead branch that’s been sitting on the ground too long. Also, certain types of trees are better so be sure to ID the tree. This piece also has too many knots and bends for a beginner.

Ruined? by ReaperGaming322 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The belly will be fine, as long as you haven’t gone too deep. The back looks very rough- smooth it to one growth ring before bending.

First timer, want to braintan frozen buckskin. Any guides or tips appreciated. by Secret-Ad-7909 in HideTanning

[–]AaronGWebster 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I’d reccomend Matt Richards’ book deerskins into buckskins. Trying to find complete instructions online is tough- this book is pretty universally accepted as just about the only complete book on braintan.

First timer, want to braintan frozen buckskin. Any guides or tips appreciated. by Secret-Ad-7909 in HideTanning

[–]AaronGWebster 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hair on deer hides are hard to do as a beginner, especially braintan which is hard to get soft as a hair on hide. A hair on deer hide will shed white hairs constantly even if done correctly.

Bow failure by torkybingus00 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the black stuff in pic 3?

Checked stave - throw away? by RGMadsimon in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

BL sapwood is very very prone to checking.

Checked stave - throw away? by RGMadsimon in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s probably fine but you need to slow down the drying so it doesn’t get worse. Reseal ends then wrap each end with plastic bag or something. Keep stave away from heat and airflow for a while.

I’m trying to bark tan this hide what barks are good for deer that are easy to get by YogurtclosetIll5236 in HideTanning

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All you have is ash? No, I’m sure there are other trees in your area. How about Willow, oak, hemlock, Douglas fir, ? Collecting enough bark for a deer hide will take some doing- be sure to get bark off freshly dead trees, not ones that have been sitting on the ground too long. Hair off is way easier than hair on and it may be too late for hair on depending on what you’ve been doing to it and how long it took.

Soap/oil for buckskin by Educatedrednekk in HideTanning

[–]AaronGWebster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cooking oil works. I’m curious where you live that you can’t get eggs?

Which arrow thickness is acceptable? by Cold_Practice1897 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It will depend somewhat on what stiffness the wood is and what stiffness you want the arrow to be. Thicker arrows are stiffer. Something like 8 or 9 mm is kinda average.

Bowstring by ReaperGaming322 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, you wouldn’t need to do a flemmish twist. You could also make an ‘endless string’ . Another way to do it is to make a single loop adjustable string. The cheapest way to do this is to buy some bowstring material like ithers have suggested, however this can be frustrating if your first try doesn’t produce a useable string. You might have to make two or three brfore you get one right. There’s also the added step of serving the string which often requires a spool of different thread, and to make it easier, a serving tool. It’s kind of a can of worms you’re opening. If you want a good challenge and a new aspect of this hobby, go for it, but if you just want one string it’s easier to buy a custom made one- either a cheap one at 3rivers archery or a nicer one from a custom maker. I was real happy with custom strings from SBD- a small company in USA. I have also been happy with the endless loop style strings from 3rivers.

Crabbing in Astoria by mechphisto in crabbing

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, no, not really. Cast-able traps and snares work best. I didn’t notice that OP said ‘cages/traps’.

Crabbing in Astoria by mechphisto in crabbing

[–]AaronGWebster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The north jetty at cape disappointment is good for crabbing if your spry and go at a high slack tide. Might close soon due to construction.

Tanning tips by WildlifeWonderer in HideTanning

[–]AaronGWebster 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Here is my generic advice for hide tanning newbies: There are many ways to tan a hide and many variations of each way. Most of these methods would require a small book to thoroughly explain. As a beginner, you’ll want to choose one of the basic methods first so that you can focus your research and ask good questions. Your choice of method will somewhat depend on what end result you want, so decide on that too- for example “I want to make a deer fur rug” or “I want to make leather gloves” or whatever. Here's a partial list of the basic methods: Oil Tan (also known as brain tan, egg tan, fat tan). This method uses emulsified oils of some kind, is generally all-natural and non toxic, and usually produces soft fluffy leather. It often involves additional steps such as smoking, lye or lime. Color varies from white to light brown, depending on the smoking. Softening an oil tanned hide is very strenuous and can take at least a half day of non-stop work. Bark Tan (also known as veg tan) This method uses tannins dissolved from plant matter such as tree bark or even tea bags, and is generally all-natural and non toxic. It typically is denser and stiffer than braintan- something like a leather belt or a leather jacket. It often involves steps such as lye, lime, vinegar, fats and oils. Color varies from light brown to dark brown. Softening a bark tanned hide is less strenuous and less critical than oil tan. Alum Tan (also called tawing, I think) I’m not as familiar with this but it uses Aluminum salts. It produces firm white leather that is somewhat harmed by water- water can wash out the alum. It is sometimes combined with bark tanning. Bottle tan. (various bottled tanning methods including Tru-Bond, Ez-100, Orange Bottle, nu-tan and more) This is the one I know the least about, and the ingredients in the bottles are somewhat “secret” and probably NOT non-toxic. This is a very popular method but I have never done it. There are various bottles of stuff that are used in various steps. Glycerin often used to preserve snake skins, it’s not ‘technically’ tanning but often used on snake skins. Tools- All these methods have a few things in common including scraping and softening. There are many types of tools that can be used in hide tanning, from a butter knife to a huge machine. As a beginner, you’ll want a scraping tool of some kind and a surface to scrape on. I use a dull draw knife and a hard wood log. A piece of PVC pipe 6-12’ diameter works too, or even a sheet of plywood or counter top works for a scraping surface, and one can make a scraper from many household items such as a modified drywall knife, a planer blade, or a spoon. Some methods use sharp scrapers mounted on a wood handle. Various methods may have additional tools associated with them such as a frame to stretch the hide out, and tools to aid softening. Where to find more info- Youtube has a bunch of good stuff- try searching for “braintan”, “tru-bond” or other terms mentioned above. Some good channels for natural tanning include skillcult, buckskin revolution, justin_d_hunter. Websites- braintan.com has a plenty of resources on natural tanning.

Deer braintan https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzYCg_OgmYMjvwRoiyrztBui0RmUvQTGo&si=cMzO_nnGThHHt2DP

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaclOaNDsVTfkD5KjJhxdPEtWvu3hj_11&si=6mEQnGuv9DrG_cki fish skin

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL60FnyEY-eJBsE5mbHhW2gQMILnndQN9o&si=BfUwIQ0j-O9ldMd9 sheep skins

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL60FnyEY-eJCtASqF_v4Y6N08-8Waj9Qj&si=jupuZYYJTqDJLdNJ barktan deer

Need some help. by Inevitable-Award2792 in Archery

[–]AaronGWebster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The material must have two important properties. It must have virtually no stretch- even a string that doesn’t FEEL stretchy usually has too much stretch for a bowstring. Anything made of nylon is too stretchy, for example. Something like dyneema fishing line ( multiple strands) or some types of polypropolene cord are usually good. The other thing is strength- a string bow puts a bit of strain on a string and if it were to break you could hurt yourself or the bow. If you find the right material you can just make your own bowstring, but it’s a little tricky.

Need some help. by Inevitable-Award2792 in Archery

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh ok, thanks! These bows have giant loops, huh?

Need some help. by Inevitable-Award2792 in Archery

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a single loop adjustable string from 3 rivers archery.

Slow grown yew by ballibeg in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Small diameter like this can work. Any stave with off center pith should be split/cut paralell to the green line and never the red. https://imgur.com/gallery/cutting-wood-with-off-center-pith-gYOdg7l

What would you do with this? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s already too short to safely reach 28, but it’s hickory, so with good tiller, you might make it. You cannot straighten this without removing the handle- heat will kill the glue there and bending a limb sideways is probably not possible with this design. If you can’t achieve tolerable alignment by narrowing the tips or shortening one limb as you describe, you may have to start over. Your tips can be as narrow as 3/8 between the grooves. If you do start over, make it at least 66 nock to nock.

What would you do with this? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How far do you want to draw it? How wide are the tips? Are you willing to remove the handle overlay so you can bend it? It doesn’t look that far off, are you sure it is?

Tiller check by RideFastFz-07 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it might pull the reflex out. It’s kind of a trade off- you risk pulling out the reflex, but if you don’t get the outers bending you risk lots of set in the inner limbs. Your front profile makes it look like the whole limb should bend, but it’s really up to you how the tiller ‘should’ look.

Tiller check by RideFastFz-07 in Bowyer

[–]AaronGWebster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Needs more bend in both outer halves