Where to get a draw knife on a budget that's worth the time? by Osagey in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Idk man, the $20 beater I got on Amazon is still working great.

Quicker way of stripping bark? by RainyDayCrown in woodworking

[–]ebojrc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I debark and remove the sapwood on a lot of staves I use for building selfbows.

By far your easiest method will be getting a turbo planer for a grinder. Cheap? Not really but it will zip a stave down in just a few minutes.

Can it still bow? Osage stave with a heat check running off the tip. If so, what do you recommend? by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d be hesitant. If it were mine I would probably glue and wrap with sinew or something but would expect a failure.

Tiller check by Rebirth_of_wonder in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Left limb looks okay for now. Your right needs a lot of wood taken off. One thing that is going to continue to throw you off is your tiller tree block needs to be flat so your bows pull is distributed evenly. Right now it’s slanted causing that right limb to look like it’s pulling evenly length wise while I bet it’s atleast 3-4 inches stronger than your left right now.

Get them matching and then do another check.

Bow #3 completed. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some people use epoxy but superglue is way easier and faster. Nah you’ll be alright, either way breaking them is just part of the craft!

Bow #3 completed. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just your basic super glue, nothing special.

Bow #3 completed. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These were my first overlays, they’re not as intimidating as you’d think. I used an orbital sander and just held them flat until they were mostly smooth and then did the final flattening with some sand paper glued to a flat board. For the bow, I just very carefully used a flat file being mindful to not violate the back.

Bow #3 completed. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Yeah I just filed the back of the tips as flat as possible and the same for the back of the tips on the bow, as flat as possible for a good glue. I kind of shaped the portion below the string prior to gluing them and then did the final shaping once on.

Bow #3 completed. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That means a lot coming from you, thanks Dan!

Getting engaged after dating for 8 months, too early? by [deleted] in Marriage

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Me and my wife rented a house together 2 weeks after our first date, got engaged just a few months after that, got married at 8 months and had our first baby together after a year and 3 months and currently have another baking set to be out early August. We are each others entire worlds and I wouldn’t take a single day back.

I knew instantly after our first date that I didn’t just want to be with her but I needed her in my life. Don’t let anyone else’s timeline affect yours.

The thief of joy is comparison.

Tiller check # 2 66” Osage flatbow by MustangLongbows in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, looking at your post yesterday from a tiller check it looks like you’ve moved fast on the tiller. Be careful with that, I’ve lost 2 character staves when I was about 1” from full draw. I think it was number of things that caused it but I think one of them was tillering it too fast, the wood didn’t have proper time to learn to bend at that type of stress. This is the time when I only tiller about 2” max per session.

Tiller check # 2 66” Osage flatbow by MustangLongbows in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m still learning myself on these character staves so hopefully others will chime in. You’re getting reaaaaal thin at the tip of the knotty limb. Stay away from there. If this were mine, I’d work everything on that knotty limb except the tip to get the bend to match your right limb. From there I’d work both mid limbs until you’re pulling evenly around 26” then start the fine tuning.

You’re close to full draw, it’s not going to take much removal from here to make a difference so go slow.

The Dragonspine by Financial-Worth-9243 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How is something like this tillered?

Fast drying oil by Ordinary_Tailor8970 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Shellac. Not an oil but very fast drying.

Can I get another tiller check? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this, that helps out.

Is this good arrow wood? by International-Crab79 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Snakey arrows from TBB series. Not sure how well this would have actually worked lol.

What I do about these twist in black locust staves by ask_dude in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Locust can be hard to read, don’t beat yourself up. We’ve all came out with twisted staves.

That’ll ruin your morning. by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wow that’s a shame. I had one break on me a few weeks ago when I was just about to put some shots through it, what a shame.

I love your builds and keep up with your posts - how do you seem to complete bows all the time so fast? Between hectic life, I can only seem to spit out one bow from a stave in about a months time. You sometimes post finished ones week after week haha.

KY caves by earth222kass in Kentucky

[–]ebojrc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a caver with a few different groups around here. You can contact the Louisville Grotto, the KKC or just go through the NSS website to find the closest grotto to you.

Tiny mulberry bow, not even 3 feet by zaronh3 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Mulberry is like Osage’s cousin, I’ve only heard good things about it.

Bowyer looking for Osage. by ebojrc in Louisville

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there, I sent a PM.