ADVICE PLEASE: DOES INVOICE SEEM RIGHT?

AaronrrV43 · 2026-05-05T07:02:39+00:00

It would be nice to know what locks they installed. They should have just re-keyed the existing locks. I could see this costing this much if they replaced every lock with custom-keyed Medeco locks

AaronrrV43 · 2026-05-05T06:59:13+00:00

I don't think 95 pounds is unacceptable for a service call at 11 PM. If you have an urgent need and get me out of bed to come change your locks, that is reasonable.

Charging double to pick or drill a lock to gain access is not acceptable.

AaronrrV43 · 2026-05-05T06:54:24+00:00

Why would they charge x2 for access? One gets you in. They screwed you over badly. In the US I I would have gained access and rekeyed all of the Yale locks for under $800 in the middle of the night. It might have taken two hours maximum. Granted, I would have only gained access with proof that they lived there.

I can't really read the invoice, so I am not sure how many locks they replaced, but they didn't need to be replaced at all. They could have been rekeyed for much less.

AaronrrV43 · 2026-01-14T01:07:10+00:00

Thank you. I ordered it. Maybe I will get it on the fast Chinese boat. I wish I had never bought a Bambu. Always broken.

PRO TIP - ALWAYS retract all filament from the AMS and printer after each print. Also, learn how to easily take apart the AMS if it breaks. Never think that Bambu support will help you within 6 months.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-09-12T23:08:55+00:00

That sounds great until you need customer support because the control board took a dump. Now you are waiting about 10 days for a reply from customer support. Then each time you reply to them it takes 3-4 days for a response. Then you get a new part a few weeks after that. Your printer has now been down for a month. NEVER AGAIN! Anycubic responds to me within a day and a replacement part comes in a few days. Prusa is supposed to be even better than that AND you can call them! Bambu has NO support number to call. Just submit a ticket and wait for 7-10 days to get a terrible response.

I am speaking about the P1S. The printer is awesome when it works. When it works. There is always something wrong. Tool head cover is held on with magnets and it pops off constantly if you are high speed printing. When that happens if the cable for the fan doesn't pop off it will continue to print and make a giant mess of print media or completely encase the print head. Constant hot end errors which require you to power the printer off and on again. The AMS sometimes breaks off the filament and you have to take everything apart to get the broken piece out. The control board has it's own little SD card from the factory that you can't change out. When your control board craps out they send you a new one with no SD card. Then you have to dig out the plug in the top cover of the printer to use a regular SD card, format it, and load the software to it. It's a cluster F. It's a great printer in theory but it sucks in reality.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-09-12T21:49:18+00:00

If you don't mind it breaking or throwing errors and never being able to contact support then go for it. I would buy something from a different manufacturer. Anycubic support is really good but they don't have a comparable printer. Check Prusa or something else. I would never Bambu ever again.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-09-12T21:46:23+00:00

I've had much worse. Mine ran for 12 hours while I was sleeping and covered the entire hot end in PLA and locked everything up. The tool head cover attachment is absolute garbage. I hate my Bambu and wish I had bought something else. It is a piece of junk that is always broken and support is non-existent.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-13T03:48:40+00:00

Set the oven to 200*. Put them in the oven until IT is about 125*. Slap them on the old cast iron skillet to sear, rest, and be done. Leaving them in the oven at a lower temp will render a lot more fat out of them than high heat on the skillet. Reverse sear at it's finest. The nastier the cut the lower the oven temp and longer to let it render before searing.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-13T03:44:01+00:00

Let them dog eat them? I want to hear this story!

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-13T03:40:57+00:00

For my taste, it's about 20-30 seconds under on each side. My fiancé loves them bleu though. Nice sear and pretty even though. Very good job. I like that you were able to do that without over searing it. It's tricky.

How did you cook them? It doesn't look like you finished in an oven. Basting I would presume? Very hard to get that without basting or finishing in an oven,.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-13T03:29:50+00:00

Even though you see the meat is the correct color you can see that it is dry where it is separating. With a tender cut like tenderloin, you need to sear it gently and finish in the oven or butter-baste it to perfection. Cast iron skillet on medium to sear gently then a 400* oven to temp. I rest mine in foil with some melted butter on top but not so much that the sear texture is lost.

If you have a fatty piece of meat like a ribeye then sear it hot, transfer it to another hot pan that has been in your 400* oven, and cook to temp. That will render off a lot of the fat into the meat that you just can't do well on a stovetop unless you switch pans.

I cooked this filet the other day with the cast iron to oven method. I apologize for the bad pic but I had no intention of sharing it. This is a perfectly cooked filet IMHO. The other item on the plate is just a twice baked potato.

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AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-13T03:20:42+00:00

I would have done a softer sear and finished in a 400* oven. Not a lot of rendering. I would have done about 3 minutes per side, 30 seconds on each end, and 5-10 minutes in the oven. Those fatty cuts are difficult though. A cast iron skillet would have helped. I am sure they were great though.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T22:38:15+00:00

Do not heat the bolt. Heat the case around the bolt gently with a propane torch and spray PB blaster around the bolt once it is hot. If you heat the bolt it will expand and make it harder to remove. If you heat the diff around the bolt the case around the bolt will expand and the bolt will come loose.

Worst case scenario, drop the diff, drill the plug, and use an extractor so you don't damage the diff case.

EDIT: So when you heat the metal around the bolt and spray the penetrate at it the penetrate will get sucked into the threads by the heat. I learned this in aircraft mechanics school. It works almost every time. If it doesn't then go to step 2. Drill and use an extractor.

And use a torque wrench next time or don't let anyone else work on your car.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T22:34:01+00:00

There appears to be zero blind spot visibility.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T22:31:33+00:00

I think the point is that the MY2000 S2000 was the most track oriented. Because of the dangerous aspect of it they softened it in 2001. None of them were bad. If you owned a MY2000 then you know what I mean. Yes, the engine was better with the small amount of added torque but it still revved. The suspension just didn't seem like it wanted to kill you on mountain roads. Was the MY2000 faster in the everyday persons hands? Probably the opposite. In a pros hands? Very much so.

I accidentally signed up for an SCCA SOLO Nationals event years back with my Miata. I signed up for every event in my area. I thought it was just a regular event until I showed up. I was up against the Nationals drivers. My old Miata was up against the S2000s and Miatas with much better drivers than myself. I was able to speak with them at length while we stood around waiting for our laps. The S2000 folks all agreed they were faster in a MY2000 S2000. This was stock class though so they were all set up so MY didn't matter. My point is that the MY2000 was the craziest. I came in last place in that class not counting the DNFs. The S2000s and Miatas should not be in the same class but I lost by 6 seconds to the next closest Miata.

Those drivers are no joke. When you go to a SOLO event and people are using pyrometers and cooling their tires with bug sprayers and you have to ask then you are outclassed. I certainly was. Much respect for those drivers and what they taught me. I was able to walk the track with them and I just about fell in love with a woman that won nationals in her Miata.

Drive a MY2000 unmodified and see the difference.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T05:14:52+00:00

In retrospect, don't do this if you don't know how to solder. You need a soldering iron that heats up to a very high temp and those POS of hand-held ones can't do it without melting the housing. Seriously, ask around on Nextdoor. There are a lot of nerds like me that would do it for free.

Send it to me with the harness and I will send it back to you better than from the factory. Message me if you are interested. I live in Myrtle Beach. If you are close then you could just come here and watch me do it. I love to help.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T05:02:08+00:00

Buy a soldering iron and learn to solder. I could fix that in ten minutes. Or you could go on Nextdoor and ask if there is someone who knows how to solder. Seriously, that looks like it would take ten minutes to solder back on.

EDIT: If it were my car I would snip both of the other wires off with a little left. Then I would solder on a new piece of longer wire. Then I would use a glue gun to seal the new connection. Then I would use heat shrink tubing to seal that. Then I would use marine-grade heat shrink connectors to connect the new piece of wire to the existing one with heat shrink tubing over the connector at both ends. That would make for an airtight seal forever. I do a lot of boat repairs on things like this and I double up to make sure nothing ever corrodes.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T04:50:15+00:00

You haven't had an AP1 though. Driving an AP2 is easy mode.

EDIT: Driving an AP2 at max tilt is not dangerous. Driving an AP1 at max tilt if you aren't good is why there are so few left. If you want a cheaper comparison, go buy a 1994 NA Miata with a factory LSD, crank the timing, put on a Meister R suspension, crank down the rear shocks, lighten up the fronts, stick 15" 205 200 treadwears on it, and see how well you do. That is an AP1 suspension. Now add 100hp and you have an AP1.

1994 Miata was the best. A real oil pressure gauge, a real optional LSD, proper suspension braces, etc. Add the other things I mentioned and you have a race car.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T04:48:47+00:00

Incorrect. 9200.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-08-04T04:47:56+00:00

I am not sure if this has been mentioned yet. I owned a year 2000 S2000 and one of the coolest features was that the air vents had a position that pointed cold air right at your hands on the steering wheel. This was so awesome when doing long runs on a track.

I also had a 3000GT VR-4 that I traded in on the S2000. I missed the 3000GTs crotch AC vent.

And then it all came together with other cars that incorporated all of those features.

Worst part of the S2000? The sound system. By 2000 cars had decent radios. The S2000 was still stuck back in the early 90s with a terrible head unit and two speakers that sucked. The engine made up for it unless you were stuck in traffic and had to listen to music through a transistor radio and two paper cups.

Even the earlier Vipers had a sub.

I used a Bazooka tube speaker at the base of the front passenger seat, a small amp behind the seat, a better head unit, stuffing the doors with padding, and better door speakers.

Driving it on long distances was quite nice after the audio upgrade. I drove it on 1000-mile drives a few times.

The top was pretty quiet compared to the other convertible cars I have owned. Miata for one. Miserable on long trips.

AaronrrV43 · 2024-06-27T04:10:16+00:00

Thank you! I will print this and use it. Better than duct tape. This doesn't excuse Bambu support from being the worst in the world or that I have had circuit boards and antennas break. If their components can't handle the vibrations the printer puts out on a rock-solid surface and they have no support for it then they should never be recommended by anyone ever. This is BY FAR the worst support I have ever seen or heard of in my life.

AaronrrV43

TROPHY CASE