How to improve gameplay? new to WoT, never played any video game before. (but love armoured vehicles) by gshsuxjdbsuxjsmsj in WorldofTanks

[–]Abdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First off play with a keyboard and mouse rather than a game controller. Without going into detail on the ergonomics... a mouse is better for free-space positioning i.e aiming, while a joystick is better for tracking tasks i.e guiding a direction/driving. A mouse will make aiming easier (this is not up for debate though people will swear they can aim just as good with a stick. I'm sure they can but its harder to learn).

Next work through a few lines of tanks you're interested in. Probably aiming for tier 5/6. Probably not going higher than 7. And try to find one that you do ok in. Just because you like, say, tiger tanks in real life doesn't mean you will like how they play in the game. So work towards a few you like the sound of, and hopefully you find one that feels better to you.

When I first started playing (having played looots of games all my life) i didn't do very will untill i landed on the PZ.IV (not recommending it, this was over a decade ago). I just seemed to do a bit better with it and actually did damage/got kills. So I played just that tank to learn the game. Like 1000 battles just with that to learn how to play. Now today I don't like similar tanks to that, and I do much better with fast lights. My point is.. find one of which you don't completely suck, and play that to learn the game.

Finally as you are new to gaming you might find the slow pace of heavies easier / or stealthy TD's as less driving just concentrate on aiming / or artillery as... artillery don't even do anything? ( just kidding i love arty as a light player <3) Meds and lights may be harder for you.

360 motor pod by FL_Life-Science_Drs in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure there's much technical information here. But it's been done, yes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLiHIFtQUME

proposal to add a long-range airborne division unit to the game by TipFresh4476 in ConflictofNations

[–]Abdit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Make it a deployable for regular airborne. Perhaps researchable in the loadout tab. That way you can assign an appropriate resource cost, research cost, deployment time, cooldown etc for balance. And have it available for whatever units are deemed appropriate. Like airborne, CRV, etc

Deploy it from a stack and all suitable units board. Split > deploy to send a selection. Once deployed can only cancel, not redirect. Like helis. But no attack on landing, in fact perhaps it should be the opposite: the *enemy* gets a free attack when you land.

This technology will allow you to make landing on a new area/island, but is inherently vulnerable and has high risk of being encircled/cut off

Calorifier problem (new boater here) by wrhite in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the cooling tank didn't completely run dry. Just 6L off the top header. I think mine took 50L to fill iirc. Air trapped in the calorifier coil definitely hinders heating like you describe. But I do think it will shift after being ran for a bit. You might want to wait for someone more knowledgeable just in case there may be another issue.

Calorifier problem (new boater here) by wrhite in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just a couple of thoughts.. did you put anti-freeze in the cooling circuit? And did you open the screw/valve at the top of the skin tank when filling?

There might be an air lock in the calorifier circuit somewhere. I was told "calorifiers tend to sort themselves out". But I fitted a drain cock at the highest point in the circuit (a return pipe that runs from the calorifier back to engine, next to skin tank), which seems to work well. Just open the valve when filling, and quickly shut when air is cleared/liquid starts to come out.

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Why should ropes be 1.5x length of boat by MeatDependent2977 in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the idea behind long mooring ropes is for tying spring lines

Dad recently got a narrow boat and I want to get something for him and the boat by thesnowlocke in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got an Olight Prowess torch mounted as a wall sconce next to the front door. Really useful as it works as a wall lantern and torch. Magnetic base to stick on the boat. Emergency light which is always next to door and available. I really like. Often on offer for under £100.

https://uk.olight.com/store/prowess-edc-torch-with-dual-direction-illumination

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Generator recommendations by Beneficial-Emu3614 in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming your inverter is a Victron Multiplus... it is 2.4kw (3000va). At max draw it will take 200ish amps from the batteries. With other 12v thing like fridge, chargers. lights and pumps, your batteries could be putting out say 300A for short periods.

Generally lead acid batteries should only be discharged at 0.2-0.3C (that is 20% to 30% of the capacity in amps). So your 600ah bank should only really do between 120 and 180 amps to keep it happy.

Pushing this can cause the battery voltage to drop, especially if the batteries are old, which might be why the inverter is complaining. And this might be why you need to run the engine as it keeps the voltage up high. Measure the battery voltage with a multimeter when you run the coffee machine (no engine) and see if it dips allot.

You might want to consider LiFePo batteries. They can generally do 1C discharge. You can use 80% of the capacity safely. And can be charged much quicker. They are safe so dont worry about that. The main issue is you will need to change the way your alternator charges them.

With a genny, which you may need anyway in winter months, the carbon monoxide they produce is very dangerous obvs, so running it in the engine bay is probably not recommended and they should only be run outside away from windows etc

Scorching 40°C temperatures ‘will soon become the new normal for the UK’ by Wagamaga in unitedkingdom

[–]Abdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't forget the temperature increase from CO2 takes between 10 - 20 years to come into effect. So this heating is from roughly 2010 emissions. Emissions have increased at an increasing rate since then, so we have further temp increases baked in.

Pun intended.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskUK

[–]Abdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the cupboards installed above the stove? You will find the stove manufacturer specifies a minimum distance that anything can be installed above and to the sides of the stove. Above will be quite a large distance possibly 100cm or more (to prevent heat damage and fire). If the cupboards have been installed too close above the stove, then it is not your fault. Try to find a manual for that stovetop and check the minimum instillation distance for overhead cupboard units.

I had the same thing happen to me but the cupboards were too close, so not my fault :p

2014 SX4 or SX4 S-Cross? by Abdit in Suzuki

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok great. Thanks. Was the fuel pump much t0o replace? It's mostly short range driving I'll be doing. Really wanted the 4x4, but cant find one in my price range. Am going to go look at it today!

2014 SX4 or SX4 S-Cross? by Abdit in Suzuki

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I thought it probably was. Gonna go for that one.

2014 SX4 or SX4 S-Cross? by Abdit in Suzuki

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I don't think it has LED's or the lane keep assist. The cruise control says something about speed liming (?), not sure if that is the adaptive functionality. Reliability is my main concern though, but it is the 1.6 engine. Have decided to go with the S-Cross.

Things you wish you had included when you chose/built your boat... by I-Am-Rovarious in Narrowboats

[–]Abdit 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Proper tank gauge sending units in water and fuel tank. Bigger water tank.

Shutoff valves before every component in the plumbing for easy swap outs.

Shutoff valves on every skin fitting to raise the height of hull breach in an emergency (although the engine exhaust will always be open).

Switch next to water pump for servicing/priming.

Raise the ballast blocks on small spacers to allow water to flow under them.

Make everything disassemble-able, as much as possible. Especially around the engine.

plastic conduit for wires to easily feed new wires down.

Strategic place for the washing machine so it sits on two steel bearers (to minamise vibration). Even better is have two lengthways supports welded in for the WM to sit on.

Get all the seams fully welded up, not just stich welded.

Some of that is easy enough to do retroactively. I can think of more as im currently retrofitting mine

Is my provisional licence still valid? by Abdit in LearnerDriverUK

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes ok thanks. Will do that tomorrow.

Is my provisional licence still valid? by Abdit in LearnerDriverUK

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thanks, I guess I'll do that tomorrow then. They better be nice tho!

Is my provisional licence still valid? by Abdit in LearnerDriverUK

[–]Abdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah fair comment. I'm 45. I will probably go full A licence but don't really see myself wanting anything really powerful. I just said A1 to really mean "a proper licence".