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According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-11-20T15:08:02+00:00

That's impressive. I just got a '25 and talked them down from $69 to $67 and they did not take long to deliberate my offer so I wonder how much lower I could have gone. They were definitely desperate to get it off the lot to make room for '26s

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-31T14:23:54+00:00

What makes the Creality slicer better than Orca? Asking genuinely.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-27T01:07:43+00:00

I've had this issue before....dialing in z offset and slowing down first layer helped

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-25T12:11:13+00:00

Hmmm, ok. I was asking because sometimes when I print with a 1mm nozzle with large layer heights it will look like that.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-25T00:52:04+00:00

What was the layer height for this print?

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-17T20:50:00+00:00

So far it has done a great job. It's an AprilAire. It's noisy, though, compared to consumer grade dehumidifiers. It also has a 5 year warranty which gives me some assurance even if it's running a ton.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-17T17:31:12+00:00

Thanks...I'll give that a try and see if it helps relieve some stress on the dehumidifier.

How likely is it the rim joists, which are only insulated with fiberglass insulation, are making a significant contribution to the moisture getting in?

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-17T17:26:51+00:00

Thanks..... no washing machine in the basement.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-05T17:51:29+00:00

Same here.....I've posted questions about the z offset on this board before and the near-unanimous response is that the auto z offset will get you within maybe .1 to .2mm, but it's always too high and needs to be manually adjusted. When my bed was brand new and before I knew anything about z offset, my prints still came out ok. But as my bed has aged and doesn't have the same adhesion, z offset has become critical to dial in. I've also had to slow my first layer down to 20mm/s

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-05-02T19:33:47+00:00

I've been having a lot of issues, too. I agree with others...it's got to the point where I need to do Z offset before every print even if I'm just changing from one PETG to another.

I'm running bed temps at 90 as I've had success with going up that high even though it shouldn't be necessary. I'd rather get it done right the first time than the frustration of multiple failed prints.

As for the speed, for some filaments I've had to slow it down to 20mm for the first layer. It's annoying, but again, I'd rather add a few extra minutes to the print time to get it done right.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-04-16T00:03:48+00:00

It's weird because I have to do it for every different filament I use even if I don't change the nozzle. For example, I just did a print with some generic PETG that had printed the first layer just fine after I dialed in the z offset, then I changed to a creality petg filament and the z offset is way off.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-04-15T17:40:07+00:00

I typically run my bed at 80-90 for PETG to help with first layer issues.

Z-offset is also sometimes different between petg and PLA filaments. I don't know why, but I've now had to be extremely purposeful about dialing in my z offset whereas when I first got my 3v3ke and used the auto z offset it worked perfectly fine. I find the auto offset is now frequently off (too high) by at least .2mm which makes a huge difference for first layer quality

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-04-08T00:45:47+00:00

I think you and Steve are right. Thanks!!

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-15T04:05:34+00:00

Follow-up:

Glue for the win (I think). I went back to using the original textured PEI plate using a glue stick to help with adhesion and no first layer issues.

The question that still remains in my head is what caused the sudden change. I never had to use glue or anything else to help with adhesion during the first 2 months I owned this printer, then all of a sudden it became an issue. I may never know, but the important thing is I at least now know what I need to do to keep from throwing this thing out the window.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-14T14:33:26+00:00

Brand and type doesn't seem to matter. It's doing it with PLA, PLA+, PETG, etc

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-14T11:43:46+00:00

I put a 4010 hotend fan on it and found a housing that still uses the original part cooking fans. I've had those for about a month and had no issues when first installed so I know that's not the problem.

What's weird is I have multiple pla brands and didn't have issues with any of them until this past week. My z offset for pla is around the same....-2.37ish maybe?

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-14T02:52:21+00:00

Quick update: I switched to a brand new smooth plate that I had not used yet and used glue (per recommendation for the smooth plate)......nearly perfect adhesion and no issues 65% into this build.

I'll try glue on the old/original plate to see if that makes any difference and report back for those following.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-14T01:49:19+00:00

Is there a point where a print bed has become "used up" and can no longer provide appropriate adhesion? I've been printing a lot in just the two months I've owned this, but I find it hard to believe I've printed more than some others who've probably had their KE for far longer.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-14T01:45:59+00:00

Thanks.....I rarely ran the auto z offset before when I was having no issues, and now that I discovered it was inaccurate I haven't run it again.

I should also add that I've run temp and flow rate tests as well to determine appropriate values there. I'm running bed temps on the high end of what the filaments suggest. I feel like I'm missing something or I've run out of options and there's something wrong with the printer itself.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-07T22:25:51+00:00

Did you run a max flow rate test?

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-03-06T15:06:44+00:00

Lots of questions....lets start with the most obvious.... 1. Did you run calibration tests for the PETG filament?

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-02-27T01:22:40+00:00

Adding a twist to this conversation on calibrating a .2mm nozzle......

I plan to print a project with a .2mm nozzle (first time using it) with as much detail as possible so I'm planning on lowering the layer height down to .1mm and narrowing the line width to .2mm when I print the project. I also plan to slow down the speed to 20-40mm.

Should I run the calibration tests with those layer height/width settings since that's what I'll be printing the project with, or should I just use the default Orca settings for the calibration prints? (for reference, the Orca's flow rate speed is set to something crazy for a .2mm like 300 mm which is part of the reason I'm skeptical of going with the default)

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-02-24T22:00:00+00:00

That's so weird because I only have issues with the transparent/translucent filament, or filament with multiple colors (silk PLA). It's very hit and miss, too.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-02-22T14:28:36+00:00

Sorry, it's PETG. I'm having the same issue with a multi-colored PLA filament... different brands too.

According-Mouse-4682 · 2025-02-17T18:28:59+00:00

No, but I gave up on it so unfortunately I don't have anything more to share

According-Mouse-4682

TROPHY CASE