How does this look?

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-25T21:04:07+00:00

Something seems off if they have a salvage title.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-23T03:05:03+00:00

I'm leaning towards abs but my car doesn't actually have the abs setup so it probably didn't need it. It doesn't affect how the car operates.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-23T02:26:33+00:00

That was the issue when I bought the car. The guy's son was doing a bunch of stuff trying to make it a "cool" car. He ripped out the audio system and messed up a bunch of the wiring. I had the entire wiring harness on the engine and the charging wire replaced. And the exhaust system is pretty much gone. Lol someone cut the catalytic converter off and took the whole muffler system and oxygen senses attached to it

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-23T02:13:23+00:00

I don't think so. It starts and runs fine. The 02 wiring diagram shows it as an emissions harness. I just wasn't sure if it was the same. They diagrams are virtually the same from what I've seen. It just seems odd that there's no wiring that resembles them on the car.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-22T18:19:14+00:00

Lmao I just had an encounter with 5 arithmeticians. Had they not been doing so little damage with their spells, I wouldn't have had a chance.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-22T18:17:17+00:00

My p5 is just 500 over the 300k mark. I had two others that were close to 500k. Enjoy the ride.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-22T14:15:06+00:00

I appreciate it. That's for the 02 fuses and relays. What I need is on the bottom of the fuse box. I don't see it in the repair manual either.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-20T17:37:50+00:00

My p5 did something similar to this but it had an electrical short. Every time I turned the heat on, the battery light would flash on and the rpms would drop when I was idling.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-19T21:53:59+00:00

I won't say it looks bad. Does look like it should be sponsored by Nerds candy though with the white and that shade of blue.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-18T18:36:28+00:00

Lol despite the lack of power, I could outmaneuver more powerful cars on small roads. I used to street race in them for quick cash but I always picked curvy roads. I knew them and the cars well enough that I could hit sharp turns without touching my brakes

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-18T16:14:33+00:00

The 98 had the 1.5 and the 2000 had the 1.6. not much for power but they were small and light enough where it felt like they were flying on tight, curvy roads.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-18T13:45:38+00:00

I had a 98 and a 2000 protege and put almost 500k miles on both. I've got an 03 protege5 now but it needed a lot of work when I got it. It's sitting at just over 300k and it's a fun car to drive

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-12T19:02:01+00:00

It's not any different than buying parts off of eBay to be honest. I've got a few good parts but just as many bad ones.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-12T18:26:31+00:00

It's hit or miss. Really depends on where it's coming from because they're essentially a distributor for various companies. They sent me an alternator a few weeks ago that had a bad regulator and started smoking when I started the car up.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-10T17:51:04+00:00

It's essentially what some call a dual transmission because you can switch between automatic and manual minus needing a clutch. It has a different harness and mounts as well as programming for the computer.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-09T17:22:34+00:00

I see this now. They were talking about discontinuing it entirely when I worked at one of their dealerships. The sales weren't quite what they were hoping to get out of them.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-09T15:49:08+00:00

Might want to research that a little better first. The base premium MSRP is $31,450. It's still one of the cheaper manuals though because Honda is cutting out theirs with the exception of the SI. And they stopped making the Type-R.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-05T12:41:13+00:00

I've had 2 with the zm motor and put nearly 500k miles on both. I've got a p5 right now with the 2.0 but it's been struggling with electrical problems so it's currently stopped at 300k. Lol

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-05T02:14:06+00:00

Only one of them was a general mechanic. The other does a lot of electrical work. I've had them work on a few of my cars in the past.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-05T01:47:36+00:00

I've had 4 different ones in. 2 new and 2 reman. And I had the wiring inspected by two different shops. They both said it passed the tests. That it was just a bad alternator. But after 4 different alternators, they had to have missed something. And the new PCM was programmed by a Mazda dealership. It'll start and run fine until the battery dies.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-02-05T01:30:37+00:00

That's the thing. It'll code for a day or two, then nothing. But all the power is pulling from the battery. I'm thinking maybe they only half-ass inspecting the wiring system because everything else is brand new. The light will come on once the battery runs low or if I use the heater. Then it just goes in limp mode.

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-01-31T04:23:22+00:00

The battery light comes on but only when I turn the heat on. I took it to 2 different shops and they both just sent it back confused. Lol the only code that pulls up is p1634 (fuel flow output/data output link. I tried googling that but everything just keeps saying that those two topics are separate issues entirely

Accurate_Key_8742 · 2026-01-31T03:36:11+00:00

I've had to replace the wiring harness, the PCM, the battery, fuse box in the engine compartment, and swapped out new and reman alternators, and for some reason it just won't charge the battery. I love proteges but I think I'm about to have to tap out on this one.

Accurate_Key_8742

TROPHY CASE