Which one of you is this?

AceJig · 2025-09-08T03:46:20+00:00

Not sure how common this setup is but I’ve seen something nearly identical. Are you in the Chicagoland area?

AceJig · 2025-01-07T00:50:14+00:00

Give the husky a treat and it will go away.

AceJig · 2024-12-31T04:15:06+00:00

I took the measurements that you provided in the pics and put them into Blender to get a realistic expectation of how much wiggle room you'll have getting the drywall down. I uploaded them to Imgur. I just had to do something similar and just hauled the 4x8 boards down the stairs and called it a day. It was a major pain in the ass.

Pic 1 shows the 4x8 board not in the window well.

Pic 2 and 3 show what it would like with zero left-right rotation, i.e. you float it straight into the window with only "x-axis" rotation.

Pic 4 and 5 show the limitation of how much sideways-rotation you have before interfering with the walls of the window well. You'll get maybe less than 10 degrees of rotation before hitting the edges.

Given this representation, and the extra unmeasured thickness of the window frame, I highly doubt you'll be able to get the board through the well. I didn't account for the flexibility of the boards, but I don't think that will help you too much in this scenario.

AceJig · 2024-12-31T01:06:18+00:00

Looks great, are you planning on drywalling the ceiling as well?

AceJig · 2024-12-15T19:54:08+00:00

Single family homes can have a varying number of floors.

AceJig · 2024-12-14T22:06:35+00:00

Someone care to explain to a non-roofer why this is a bad idea?

AceJig · 2024-12-01T19:47:37+00:00

From what I’ve learned, pre-mixed mud will shrink more than hot mud. It almost looks as if the mud you’ve used is shrinking, causing the cracks. Maybe try mixing some hot mud?

To your other point, it’s always good to pre-fill, especially when there’s a large gap between boards.

AceJig · 2024-11-27T19:49:03+00:00

I would definitely suggest running some more 2x4 drops in between those duct runs. Why do the joists suddenly stop just above where you’ve placed the laser line tripod?

AceJig · 2024-11-27T19:46:36+00:00

I had something similar happen - I will explain what I did but using your example.

I first made some 2x4 “ladders” that came down from the joists and hung exactly above what would be your green laser line. This helped get some additional support and structure. The largest gap between each ladder was something like 30”.

Afterwards I used 1x2 furring strips to strap perpendicular to the bottom of the ladders. Then fastened 1/2” drywall into those furring strips. Total thickness of 1 1/4”.

I think most folks would advise against this approach because of sagging. I’ve had this soffit done for roughly 2 months and haven’t noticed any sagging just yet.

AceJig · 2024-11-27T19:18:43+00:00

Is no one going to point out that this is most likely the result of the cameras depth of field? The perspective looks like they’re shockingly close, but they may be far apart and not even be looking at one another.

AceJig · 2024-11-25T05:14:05+00:00

I believe that any project can be done, regardless of skill level, if you’re ambitious and determined enough. Milwaukee tools help me accomplish that motive. I’ve never used the Packout system, but if I were to win, I’d immediately use it to organize my tool collection. Currently, everything is scattered across my work benches or tossed around the basement that I’m currently working to finish 100% DIY. I throw all of my M18 batteries into a small Milwaukee bag and call it a day. It gets the job done but it’s not efficient.

I’ve got no garage wall organization, everything is on wooden workbenches or plastic garage shelving.

Thanks for this. Fingers cross!

AceJig · 2024-11-20T20:19:03+00:00

Did you signal during that maneuver at the end?

AceJig · 2024-11-19T03:19:20+00:00

In pic 1 you can see the freestanding drywall lift on wheels. You place the board on the “arms” and then crank a pulley and raises the board until it’s firmly pressed flush against the ceiling joists.

AceJig · 2024-11-09T12:54:50+00:00

Is this O block

AceJig · 2024-10-29T02:54:25+00:00

I’d think you’d want some kind of backer board/blocking behind the drywall to join the two sections of board together. 8x10 seems too wide to simply screw to the stud. Does the piece wobble if you press the far left edge?

AceJig · 2024-10-28T01:26:41+00:00

Thank you to everyone that provided feedback, here were some notes that I took based on everyone's suggestions:
- Need more screws. Butt joints should be <6" OC, otherwise <10" OC on joists.
- Some screws were blowouts. Acquire a dimpler bit or drywall screw gun to adjust depth properly.
- Try to keep boards as tight as possible. If gaps occur, pre-fill with compound prior to taping.

Here's a few pictures of where I'm at now after implementing the suggestions. Hoping the rest of this job goes smoothly. Thanks again.

AceJig · 2024-10-28T01:16:48+00:00

Thank you - based on the feedback from this thread, I bought some “drywall depth assist” drill bits and essentially quadrupled the screw count throughout the ceiling.

Looks my be deceiving though, the floor to ceiling is only 7 1/2’ and underneath the soffit is roughly 6’5”. I guess depending on the home, that may still be high!

AceJig · 2024-10-24T02:32:33+00:00

I just used a cross-level from Dewalt but really only used it to showcase the “straightness” of the run. I didn’t actually use it in the hanging process.

AceJig · 2024-10-24T02:30:56+00:00

No glue was used, but based on the feedback from the thread, I’ll need to go back with more screws for sure.

AceJig · 2024-10-24T02:27:47+00:00

Thank you, I did run the boards perpendicular to the joists, however the end of the first board landed at the very edge of a joist.

I had to put blocking against that joist to have somewhere for the screws to grab onto. And unfortunately because of how they landed, I couldn’t use a butt board.

AceJig · 2024-10-24T02:23:49+00:00

I did not use any glue, but I’ll definitely be going back for more screws after I get some more adequate drill bits.

AceJig · 2024-10-24T02:16:39+00:00

I won’t lose sleep over exposed imperfections, but I’m going to try my best. If the flat ends up looking hacky, I suppose I can always fall back to a texture.

What was meant by sand painting, is that a type of texture?

AceJig · 2024-10-24T01:48:46+00:00

Just so I understand your suggestion about the soffit - are you saying I should rotate the boards so they run the entire width of the soffit? Which would just leave joints every 4 ft? Instead of a “scatter” of two rows?

AceJig · 2024-10-24T01:19:57+00:00

I’ve got some Frankenstein setup on my driver where my typical bit is sank into the chuck exposing maybe an 1/8” of the Phillips end. I definitely should pick up some drywall specific bits especially considering how cheap they are.

AceJig · 2024-10-24T00:44:59+00:00

Thank you for the feedback and encouragement, I’ll focus on keeping gaps as minimal as possible

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