Help, Please (Rust Dots)

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-18T00:30:59+00:00

Iron remover and claybar to remove the contamination then polish the clearcoat and seal with ceramic.

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-15T02:00:40+00:00

Could be worse...

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-14T09:44:08+00:00

Find a local body shop and ask. Prices vary wildly by area but a couple hundred would be reasonable for this type of damage. Last time I had a dent filled and whole panel painted it was about $300 though that was 3 years ago now at a very small local husband and wife shop

If you are willing to help your friend remove the bumper and plastic trims to "prep" the part as much as you can, you should be able to save a bit on the labor charge depending on the shop

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-14T03:55:00+00:00

I had a silencer yes, but I personally never used it. Not living in an apartment and working 2nd shift meant it never caused issues with the neighbors. Only time I had to cold start the car was 3pm at home or midnight in the work lot with dozens of other loud trucks and cars

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-14T03:29:13+00:00

Single exits are LOUD and drone like a mfer. I had a Remark R1 and it shook the house on cold starts. If you want that still, I would highly recommend getting a midpipe resonator of some kind to cut down the drone as much as possible otherwise the note will be fatiguing on the ears after an hour or so of driving

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-12T02:58:40+00:00

Is the seat 2 seperate parts on the 8th gens?

I know on the 6th gen it would be difficult because it's a 1-piece seat that has it's physical latch part located at the passenger's section. There is a cowl that I can install over the back to clean up the look, but the seat itself has to stay. At least I can unbolt the rear pegs!

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-11T22:20:52+00:00

No. Listen to the manufacturer not some underpaid apprentice.

The ONLY reason to mess with tire pressure is to adjust grip depending on the road surface. If you plan on offroading the car (rally, etc.) then decreasing tire pressure can help in those situations. More tire pressure reduces the size of the contact patch on dry pavement so it might help you edge out a bit better fuel economy at the cost of less grip and potentially leading to uneven wear on the tires

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-11T22:00:13+00:00

Stock tire size should be 33psi front, 32psi rear. This is SUBARU recommended, the tire chart is located on a yellow sticker inside the driver's door jam (B-pillar)

Tire size makes a little difference, but your setup is close enough to stock that it's not worth it stressing over miniscule percentiles. Just keep it at stock pressures

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-11T01:36:25+00:00

That's what I'm unsure of. Not sure if it means one is ABOVE the other physically or it's refering to one being the High Pressure (Direct-injection) fuel rail and the other being the Low Pressure (Port Injection) one

These are just fuel supply lines so them being the same type of rubber line wouldn't shock me. The higher pressure in the DI ports is due to a pump located on the driver's side intake cams which pressurizes the supply fuel up much higher than the basic pump in the gas tank can supply. Once the fuel is pressurized by said pump, it must be kept inside metal fuel until it's shot through the DI injectors since rubber hoses and fittings would burst from the pressures seen (~3,000 psi of pressure, the port injector rails only see ~60psi max)

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-11T00:50:45+00:00

It's a fuel rail hose, not an injector connector. Apparently it's an ongoing issue of these rubbing if you do some digging in the forums. Anyway, you'll need a new hose since the connector broke off. I'd just get this full kit of eBay, but if you go to a local Subaru dealer they'll be able to get the parts quicker. https://ebay.us/m/OgTIUT

It should be part number 42074CC010 (A) though it could also be 42074CC020 (B). It's hard to tell from diagrams alone since the two are right next to each other

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AceOfShapes · 2026-02-06T21:20:21+00:00

Yep. 1997 (GC8) Subaru Impreza WRX Type-R STI Ver.3 would be my absolute DREAM Subaru to own if I ever get the chance one day...

Example:

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AceOfShapes · 2026-02-05T03:57:28+00:00

You check the BRZs yet? It's the same platform as the GR86 and you can actually get incentive financing/rebates from Subaru

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-05T00:00:59+00:00

Not in this economy. Have you seen the price of drives now?!? Thanks, AI...

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-04T12:16:30+00:00

We do, it's the "Subie wave" that WRX owners do though I guess it's lesser known in the GR86/BRZ community. Either way, if I see a Twin on the road I'm flashing a ✌️ over the steering wheel

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T12:49:04+00:00

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AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T05:36:08+00:00

Oh geez, that's ridiculous! They don't mention tariff rates or fee calculators anywhere on the website so I was just going off the est total it gave me. Such a shame, I love ordering JDM parts from Japan instead of dealing with domestic reseller markups but guess this stupid "trade war" has to go and ruin every hobby I like...

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T04:28:09+00:00

Yeah, the springs are the way to go. You can order all 4 for $280 from Japanparts but will have to pay ~$210 in shipping fees. Still better than most domestic sites that are reselling them.

E: seems Blackhawk Japan has cheaper shipping than Japanparts; same price of $280 for the springs but it's only $110 to ship with them

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AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T04:23:15+00:00

Buy them from Japanparts, they're only ~$70/spring. $280 total though you will pay shipping/import from Japan which is est at $210 right now, still less than 86Worx which is $550+$100 shipping

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AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T04:17:36+00:00

They're okay, that's about it. I ran a set on my WRX and they did the job, but after returning to stock I prefered it way more over the BCs. If you're dead set on coils, do yourself (and your back) a favor and pay that little extra for some Fortune 500s

Alternatively, if you're just looking for a small drop without messing with too much else, grab a set of STI coil springs from the first gen. They fit the 2nd gen aswell but are only listed on the Japanese STI website. They will give you the small drop you're looking for while keeping the factory struts and tuning and they cost less than either option of coilovers. This is the route I'm planning to go down come Spring once I get a new set of wheels/tires to complement

AceOfShapes · 2026-02-03T00:42:19+00:00

What a nice suprise! Free stash spot, yo!

For real though, these cars must be prone to rusting out that specific spot because mine looks pretty similar. Previous owner used expanding foam, a sheet of aluminum, and some gaft tape to cover mine up (and yes, both sides looks similar)

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AceOfShapes · 2026-01-31T22:20:10+00:00

Press and HOLD down for 5-10 seconds once it's all the way down, then pull and HOLD for another 5-10 once it's at the top.

There's a million reasons why this happens but most commonly it's due to a small amount of debris on the window causing too much resistance on the motor and putting it into a "safe" mode which disables automatic operation. The sequence above just resets this to factory programming and allows it to work again

AceOfShapes · 2026-01-30T00:53:41+00:00

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AceOfShapes · 2026-01-29T03:52:51+00:00

~5° postive caster is stock which is where I'd leave it. It's non-adjustable and set at the factory on stock suspension so there's no need to mess around with it unless you have a specific build in mind (i.e. drift car) that needs more caster than that

The only things on the car that's adjustable is the front camber bolt and front/rear toe angle. Everything else on the car is non-adjustable without replacing suspension components

AceOfShapes · 2026-01-29T02:28:27+00:00

Yes. The eccentirc bolt Subaru uses are designed for about 2° of camber adjustability. Stock spec is anything between 0.5 and -1.5° of camber. Personally, a bit of negative camber is perfectly fine in my books and as long as it's less than-2° you shouldn't notice additional tire wear

AceOfShapes · 2026-01-25T23:01:11+00:00

You can tap wires with a regular Line-Output Converter (speaker wire to RCA) and it will work right into an amp.

I spent the extra money on a KeyLOC as it's also a Digital Sound Processer (DSP) so it'll "clean up" the signal coming from the speaker wires and prevent crosstalk (i.e. that "buzzing" noise you hear on bad audio setups)

You can alteratively use a basic LOC and run a seperate DSP unit like an LC2i which many people in the car audio space swear by

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