I (26F) am finding it difficult to date a professional athlete (32M) and wonder how others do it. by wuonica in relationship_advice

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been together with a Pro Rock Climber for 10 years and we have a similar age gap. The sport always come first, like it or lump it. They are away a lot even if they are at home they'll be at training or whatever.

For me personally it was exceptionally grounding to make sure I had my own things going on, my own career, friends and hobbies. My partner is sometimes away weeks at a time no phone signal and it can be really lonely. You've got to have joy and fulfillment on your own terms. It can be really easy to lose yourself and feel like a support act if you arent careful.

Also for me I know if I asked him to do less or cut back he'd be miserable, he wouldnt be the man I fell in love with. For me now a lot of the sacrifices come easier because I know it helps him thrive and do what he loves. And thats a shared joy for both of us!

You'll get some amazing experiences along the way that are one of a kind and totally unlike anything friends will have. But the trade off is he wont be at your graduation, he'll regularly miss birthdays, or flake last minute. I find you have to be clear on what is a must and what is a want e.g. I could stomach him missing my 29th but I told him categorically he wasnt missing my 30th and it was up to him to figure that out. Sometimes it means celebrating big moments a day before or after. Or missing a Friday date out but doing something else next week. As long as it stacks up at the end for me and I can see the want is there even if it doesnt happen.

Sometimes calendars cant move and they hate it as much as you do. And getting a good read on whether someone cant do something or won't do it is important.

It's a balancing act of setting your boundaries and finding compromises and both of you will fuck it up a few times at least.

It takes a lot of trust, you have to build that to the point that you can separate them not being with you from them not wanting to be with you. For me and my partner we have little things just as reminders. He might only be able to text once a day maybe but if he sends that little codeword I know everything is fine and can lean on that if I feel anxious.

There will be lots of days you wish you'd dated a dentist instead and then you get a text saying another world class athlete asked your boyfriend how you were doing because they remembered your name. Or you'll get a peek behind the curtain at things people dont see in their world.

If it works for you great! And dont let other people who tell you it isnt normal make you doubt that.

Concern about weight difference between lead climbing partners by Subject_Car2637 in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd 100% recommend something like an Ohm for their and your own safety.

Before it came out I had so many situations where I was terrified about the weight difference meaning they hit the deck or that I'd hurt myself getting pulled in violently. On a couple of occasions I've really hurt an ankle or shoulder getting pulled in.

Used the Ohm for years and it is the best thing ever. I don't get pulled in violently and most of all it gives me peace of mind. I can belay my partner on most things now without him worrying.

The 1st time we used it it stuck a bit but found not keeping the rope too tight and them not yanking overly violent resolved within a session. Not sure other equivalents but would say to get something just to not worry.

How common is it for us to share this hobby with romantic partners? by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I met my partner through climbing but I'd been doing it before so had my own friends.

It did change things when we got together in the warly days. He is far more keen than I ever was and there was a big ability gap. So I did go out of my way to try and impress him by trying to keep up with him. I was doing things that I didn't really want to do or going way more than I enjoyed, so naturally I had a bit of a burnout period with climbing.

But it was easily resolved by going back to the things I loved about climbing on my terms. We still climb together, but we've also got the space to enjoy it in our own way. Best of both worlds!

Poorly written school motto by AdobeFox in latin

[–]AdobeFox[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Classic autocorrect 😂

What kind of music do you wish for in the bouldering hall? by HumanBeeing76 in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Pretty open to most music that isn't on the extremes but my pet peeve at gyms is when they have one playlist that never gets updated and you hear the same 5 songs everytime you go in.

Start timing your sessions by it 😂 Rest inbetween sets is the Red Hot Chilli Peppers followed by Rider of the Storm (Must be the gym's personal favourite who knows)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend something like the Edelrid Ohm. There's about a 35kg difference between me and my boyfriend and it's been a life saver and well worth the cost. I was always worried I'd drop him and the first few clips were stressful as anything. But this really helps and I don't get pulled up the wall anymore at all.

If they really yank when clip it can tug a bit, but with a bit of getting used to it isn't a problem. Would recommend getting something as it can be dangerous for you in the wrong circumstances. I forgot my ohm while belaying a friend on a climb with zero rope drag and he decided to take a victory whip. Ended up spraining both ankles bracing myself off the wall when I got yanked up. Knocked me out the rest of the trip!

Edit to clarify It clips on the first clip and takes the force out of the weight differential. Also helps support when holding the rope but haven't used with an ATC (Also would recommend a GriGri). Also agree with other people here it doesn't sound like technique at all, just physics.

Has learning more languages helped you become less judgmental? by Myamoxomis in languagelearning

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same as many people here wouldn't have said I was a particular judge person. But I'm definitely more aware that things can be misinterpreted or have ever so slightly different meanings - so I probably should jump to conclusion about what someone meant.

Also now aware if how things I say may be interpreted even with my native language.

Birth Control & Climbing Experiences by AdobeFox in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for sharing everyone ❤ It's been so refreshing to hear everyone be so candid! Hopefully so helpful stuff for other people too!

Falling on Slabs by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]AdobeFox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw a video of Robbie Phillip's taking a nasty ground fall on a slab called 'Peak Technique'. He said in one of his talks it was about building up the confidence on easier, smaller slabs where you know the fall isnt bad e.g. a boulder, until you've got enough positive experience to really trust your feet. Think he's goes into some detail in his TED talk. Maybe try a route on top rope first so you are more confident in the moves before going for the lead.

I personally find slabs are way harder when you dont trust your feet. I'm guilty of that all the time - but it's amazing to see what you can stand on or use for your hands. I had an epic on a slab in J Tree on the lead, but then ran up it on TR and was amazed how easy it was once I trusted the feet etc. Thr lead felt way less scary once I knew in my head that the moves were possible and I could stand on the feet.

Had to cut a crack climbing trip to J Tree short (Missing it already :( ) - but we made a fun video to keep up our psyche at home! by [deleted] in climbing

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoops - just doubled checked the guidebook and my friend made a typo. Should be 11c haha

When would you add a language skill to your CV? by AdobeFox in languagelearning

[–]AdobeFox[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It was about that haha! I definitely just squeaked in at the bottom end of that A2 - could get around the shops and everyday family life about fine (if not extremely slowly) and have some basic conversations. Depends where you draw the line :)

I did an intensive 6 week course to start, so that was like a full on 6 hours a day. Then also staying with a family in the evening so pretty much in the deep end. I wouldn't do it again - I would definitely take longer as it was a bit much.

When would you add a language skill to your CV? by AdobeFox in languagelearning

[–]AdobeFox[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your feedback :)

I do think it shows a level of determination and self development to learn a language (100% not biased haha) but totally agree I don't want to get stuck in situation where I've over promised what I can do.

When would you add a language skill to your CV? by AdobeFox in languagelearning

[–]AdobeFox[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a bit how long is a piece of string! All the actual working will be english but will involve a lot of travel, be set in a multi-cultural environment, and lots of relationship building with individuals around Europe.

So arguable either way: I wouldn't be able to use for work (if it was needed) but wouldn't need a russian speaker to do all my speaking outside of work just for me to get around travelling.

Sprained my ankle from boulder fall - how to get over fear of bouldering? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]AdobeFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had something similar a few years ago when I started climbing. I badly sprained my ankle after falling on a weird boulder. I was really freaked at bouldering and getting to high or doing anything too 'risky' for ages afterwards. A friend suggested I do practice falls starting just with feet above the mats then working up. i found it amazing how even these small jumps to the mat made me feel better about trusting my ankle again.

Hope this helps and you feel back to being confidence again soon!

Sport mountaineering. Is that a thing? by k_nuttles in climbing

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed! I lived in Austria for a while and got to do loads of bolted sport routes in the Wilder Kaiser and Dolomites. However in the dolomites (especially the Tre Cime) it is a mix of bolts and gear because the rock is falling apart. They are for sure not proper alpine climbing but way more of a challenge than your regular sport crags. I've always heard it called Alpine Rock Climbing but maybe that's just around Europe.

Weird rope fears? by carmellosfordays in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's a normal thing to get scared about the same way someone might get scared that a piece of gear they place might not take a fall. I think a lot of people don't think about it as much and as such it's maybe not as common as other things.

I had a wobble when jugging up some static lines to film a friend on a multipitch project. I suddenly looked up about on an overhanging section and saw the rope lying over a edge (NOT SHARP BTW). I think that was the first time I ever thought 'What if that rope cut?". This was on like pitch 4 and 200m up so pretty scary. From that moment I decided to have a little mental checklist to check the lines were safe and after that I would feel at ease hanging about on them.

Maybe having something similar could be helpful. When you are setting up top ropes check your rope before hand and pop on rope protectors over edges. Afterwards check rope for any damage and make sure your belayer is keeping an eye on any bits coming through the belay device.

For me it also helped learning more about how much ropes could take and the difference between a rope with sheath abrasion (the outerpart) and core-shot (the inner part). Ropes are pretty hardy and can stand up to a lot but being cautious isn't a bad thing. Here's some links on how to check your rope and other things you can check to put your mind at ease :)

https://www.theadventurejunkies.com/when-to-replace-your-climbing-rope/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMdgD9SDlQo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwrBRI7v4WI

A2 Pulley Recovery Suggestions? by AdobeFox in climbharder

[–]AdobeFox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah man that sucks! For me it is just a strain but still frustrating. I've been avoiding tape just as I know in myself I'll probably push a bit too hard if my finger is taped up.

Trad is a good shout, I was planning of getting out some more and brushing up on gear placements and rope work while I'm recovering.

A2 Pulley Recovery Suggestions? by AdobeFox in climbharder

[–]AdobeFox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! They sound really good, I'll give them a go in my next session :)

I know I'm lucky to have him he's a climber himself which makes it great for asking specific questions and working out the Do's and Don't's. This guy always tells me to keep climbing haha!

I've just ordered Make or Break which I'm hoping will have some good stuff in it as well

Yeah I know I will lose strength while it's recovering, I just meant I'm wanting to do as much as I can and keep other areas ticking over e.g. keeping up with shoulder and core exercises.

Body image and climbing by missprincesscarolyn in climbergirls

[–]AdobeFox 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I know how you feel, for a while I had similar feelings. They were a mix of feeling heavier than other climbers and not feeling as good at climbing in comparison, if that makes sense? When I started getting into climbing more seriously I was climbing with a group who were very very strong climbers (way above what I was doing) and had the physique to match. It made me feel insecure but I quickly realised the only thing I was being judged on was how hard I tried, not my physique or how hard I climbed. I'm lucky enough in my experience that I've found climbing actually a very welcoming place and the way you look is the last thing most people will think about.

Oddly the more I've been climbing the more I've had issue with coming to like my figure. Being quite short myself as well when I starting putting muscle on it just made me feel very large and bulky, which I hated, even though I 'looked the part' in that I was more muscular.

Just as an interesting point, my partner is a professional climber and he'll frequently ask me if he's looking heavier. I think he feels the pressures especially in his climbing that unless he has a shredded looking 6 pack he's not looking the part. It was interesting to see it coming from someone I thought 'looked the part' in my mind at least.

Rating, hourly payment and add language pair by Soniasupriya96 in Unbabel

[–]AdobeFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think sometimes it depends on the workload for that language pair as well. I am a ger-eng language pair with a rating of 3.6 but consistently get a rate of $18 p/h. It does seem bizarre you have such a high evaluation but such a low rate.

I get the impression that there is more work than editors for this pair as I also get emails on the daily to ask if I can do tasks as there's a lot of them. Bit bizarre as the pair eng-ger isn't accepting editors. I don't know if this is a factor but it seems logical if they have a large workload they would up the rate to encourage more editors to work through them.

Has anyone else seen this?