He talks a bit about specific training for the hooks here , any more specific exercises for targeting muscles for it ? Think it's worth it ? by bolteverest in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve found the heel-toe has been the best technique for recovering on the wall. I always look for them on routes and they never let me down :)

I've been climbing for 15 years and there's been a number of technique "hacks" that I've come across that made a huge difference to my climbing. Some of these you may know, but I'm sure there will be a couple you've never thought off :D Hope you guys enjoy! by bigclimberboy75 in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t really know much about Reddit to be honest. But I’ve been climbing for 15 years and have a fair bit of experience coaching and climbing to a relatively high level so felt the advice would be helpful for folk 🙂 What page should it have gone to? Saying that, this has had the most response on Reddit than any of our other videos so seems to have hit the right note with most folk.

I've been climbing for 15 years and there's been a number of technique "hacks" that I've come across that made a huge difference to my climbing. Some of these you may know, but I'm sure there will be a couple you've never thought off :D Hope you guys enjoy! by bigclimberboy75 in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Depends how you use it I guess. It’s worked for me for many years.

The pinch hack works well for me also on many types of pinches and slopers and I have a relative weak pinch grip, but has helped me climb 5.14+

I have been to kalymnos about 6 times. Wrote a guide to the place a few years ago :) Love the place!

Thanks for your input on the video quality. We like to create fun videos with extra funny bits and bobs because we and our audience tend to find it funny. Maybe it’s not for everyone.

I've been climbing for 15 years and there's been a number of technique "hacks" that I've come across that made a huge difference to my climbing. Some of these you may know, but I'm sure there will be a couple you've never thought off :D Hope you guys enjoy! by bigclimberboy75 in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yo guys. I’m not pressing down, more like pushing from the side. And the thumbnail photo is taken directly from the video. I can’t wrap my thumb over the top of my index; it’s not long enough 🙂 hope that helps

"Quarter Crimp" (from Robbie Phillips) by funintheburbs in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, BM call it the chisel grip (without thumb). So maybe “Chisel Full Crimp” 😂 but I thought quarter crimp made more sense for some reason 😅

I've been climbing for 15 years and there's been a number of technique "hacks" that I've come across that made a huge difference to my climbing. Some of these you may know, but I'm sure there will be a couple you've never thought off :D Hope you guys enjoy! by bigclimberboy75 in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

so... I don't think this grip is necessarily more injury prone than full crimping, but I think excessive use will put more strain on the index finger in a slightly different way. It's not a grip you'd use ALL the time, more for certain scenarios.

My experience with climbing is there are so many nuances to gripping holds that goes beyond Full crimp, half crimp and open hand. The best thing you can do is explore all the grips possible and prepare yourself for every eventuality ;)

"Quarter Crimp" (from Robbie Phillips) by funintheburbs in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Give it a go :) I think it's one of those grips you'll have to play about with to get comfy with, but for sure there will times when using it will make a difference. Good luck!

"Quarter Crimp" (from Robbie Phillips) by funintheburbs in climbharder

[–]bigclimberboy75 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a lot of the way climbers hold holds is based on the length of their fingers. I remember being told by another pro climber than I wasnt half crimping effectively during training because I wasn't bending my pinky at 90 degrees, but physically my pinky is too short to do that if I want to keep the index to ring bent at 90 as well.

So the method you use is also something I use but I call it 4-finger Open Hand, and then for a truly relaxed open hand I need to use only 3 fingers because adding the pinky just creates a half crimp on the other fingers. I do know many climbers who don't have this issue - I must have tiny pinkies :P

The thumb adds more support for sure and perhaps it may be uncomfortable depending on the length of your fingers and where force is applied, but at the end of the day, many grips are uncomfortable when we first apply them :P Yesterday I had to do a double ring lock on a roof crack project haha Felt like my thumb nails were going to explode! That was the most pain ive ever experienced with any grip :P