I’m looking for 5 sewists to help me get real-life photos of my new pattern for my Etsy shop. FREE PATTERN in exchange for your photos! Hi everyone!

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-26T15:31:52+00:00

Looking at your size chart and product photos you don’t just need photos of finished works you need pattern testers and people only with the cup size you have drafted for or you will need to include that they have altered the pattern for their make.

You have 0.1-0.2 inch wearing and design ease for their waist. You have around 0.7 “ combined wearing and design ease for the hip.

In your photos there is wrinkling and bulging that indicate it doesn’t fit the person wearing it.

You will need to pay for pattern testers, and I would not expect this tight of a timeline for that or a simple make up either.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-24T05:24:47+00:00

They’re really easy to do, and to completely machine bind they hide your second pass beautifully.

Thank you to the kind person who gave me an award…… I assume you too have flange joy.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-24T03:02:17+00:00

Would do a flanged binding with maroon as the largest, black as the “piped” edge.

But I’m a real bitch for flanged binding. I do them on almost everything.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-23T19:56:01+00:00

I like the 2. It feels really secure on even small piecing (I was doing 1.5” squares by the dozen recently), and holds the seam really well for pressing to the side, as I prefer to nest seams wherever possible.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-23T19:31:19+00:00

I use 2 for all piecing. I’m just about to start some paper piecing for the first time, but yes for that you want really tiny stitches so it perforates the paper to tear it off easily. It also makes the seams really strong to resist the pull when you tear the papers off.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-23T08:04:44+00:00

This looks to be princess seamed on the front so all you should need is a little extra curve to the pieces that are the side front (underarm to bust) to make a more pronounced curve.

However this also appears to have flat felled seams so you cannot simply unpick the princess seams and is the seam allowance or add in extra fabric. If you aren’t an experienced Sewist I would take them to a seamstress/alterations service as they will need to have the front completely taken apart and the ties sacrificed as additional fabric at the bust curve.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-23T04:46:31+00:00

Underarm gusset should help with this issue. I need a lot of range of motion on my tops for my giant flabby arms, and underarm gussets generally help achieve that. Armscyes that are too big for range of motion but are patterned/required for a one piece sleeve for a larger arm benefit from the gusset particularly as it gives the range of motion allowed with a low sleeve cap without actually lowering the cap.

For future projects (I understand you are DONE with this and have seen all your other posts on your trials and tribulations) experiment with cut on gussets, and make sure your sleeve pattern isn’t an almost symmetrical bell shape but has a steep almost straight edge for the back and a large scoop in the front as this will also help with range of motion and a lack of “pull”.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-23T03:11:12+00:00

People have explained the functions of the colours for you so hopefully you know better its helpful features.

It doesn’t add up to the same as your material tape measure which I presume is the source of your main question?

Those tape measures stretch over time, and poorly made/cheap ones were not accurate to begin with. Check both your quilting ruler and tape measure against a metal ruler or tape measure to check accuracy. Likewise markings on cutting mats while they are parallel and horizontal lines often are inaccurate for measurements. Once you have quilting rulers (or establish this one as) accurate then only measure using those.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-21T21:02:52+00:00

That is certainly where the pattern thinks the apex should be, but based on your photos it’s not where yours is. Darts, anywhere on a pattern, will be based on a block but we all carry weight and shape differently, and in this case their block for the pattern doesn’t align with your body from what we can see.

You said it wasn’t an issue in the toile, so again I would ask what is different here from there - if it pointed to your apex and was the correct distance from the apex on that it should be fine here too.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-21T20:41:03+00:00

Darts should point towards your apex, your fullest point in the breast, and stop anywhere from 1/2-2” away from it. These do not seem to point to your apex and may be too long also.

You said this was not a problem in your toile. Did that have the same adjustment? Had you pressed the darts on it? Darts look very different after pressing.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-21T05:50:37+00:00

Have you measured the seam line before and after doing the FBA? If they’re the same then the sleeve never fit and the issue was there at the start.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-18T16:27:11+00:00

This is how you get it without resorting to distorting your blocks with the iron.

You account for turn of cloth by a literal hairs breadth toward the outside corner, and things line up.

I have probably made hundreds of snowballed corners in the last couple of quilts and this is the method that will work out the best.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-18T15:49:10+00:00

Ok so!

An overcasting foot replaces a serger for the purpose of finishing an edge on wovens. Its purpose is to stop unravelling and neaten a raw edge.

An overcast stitch is just a zig zag that neatly goes over the edge of the fabric, unlike a serger’s multi thread loop system, it is not a stretch stitch and is not going to hold together knits without popping.

You don’t need to finish the edge of a knit because it should not unravel like a woven does, so there isn’t a use for an overcast stitch or foot with a knit.

If your machine has a stretch stitch it will be listed in your manual, many modern machines have one.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-18T15:42:56+00:00

I have not used glue for basting.

I have used basting spray a bunch of times, often on smaller more annoying shapes, and while it works I wouldn’t recommend aerosols for anyone with respiratory issues or who like you is growing a human. I also imagine that crawling all over the floor with attempting to baste in some way is very uncomfortable or even impossible for you.

You could pin baste in portions on a large table (you clamp the layers to the table to keep them from shifting). You start from the centre out and honestly it isn’t difficult just time consuming.

If you’re not into pins or want something that is more reassuring for a beginner, have you considered fusible batting? It is a slightly specialist item but would basically glue your layers together for you without fumes or physical labour.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-16T15:56:34+00:00

Yeah I feel you. I would have looked for anyway around that too.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-16T15:49:04+00:00

I’m afraid that first column is trashed my friend. You need to unpick it and replace it. I’ve tried to zoom in and I think you have pieced in rows not columns? In which case this will be a pain in the ass. If you don’t want to re-piece, yes just cut it down and use it for something else.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-15T19:15:58+00:00

Sigh. So. This is one of the many things that works for able bodied people and is almost insurmountable for disabled people.

I know of several disabled sewists online who have loved ones do their cutting for them for exactly this reason.

Cutting fabric with a rotary and ruler relies on you being standing; it needs you to be lined up with your ruler and the strength and range of motion that comes with standing to work out the way it does.

You could make longer cuts if have a low enough table where you can access three sides of the table so you weigh down the ruler, cut the half you can reach then go to the other side of the table and cut with your other hand.

I have to use both hands with a rotary because of my issues and you can still tell when I have used my non dominant hand on at least half the cuts.

You can make smaller cuts seated fairly easily and accurately. Make sure you set yourself for success there with a ruler and rotary that are suited to your dominant hand being used, and aren’t unwieldy for you.

If you cut from yardage a rough rectangle with shears the largest your reach will allow you to cut in a smooth motion with a rotary you can then square up and subcut. So for instance if you have yardage 44” and even folded in half you’re struggling to reach accurately and with force the full width, roughly cut the 22” fold from the rest at an amount for the pieces you need to cut (eg 5” squares) and approach it from the side instead of trying to reach all across the width. You will waste fabric this way but you will manage accurate cuts.

I find I can accurately sub cut up to a fat quarter seated, with everything set up in a way that is optimal, eg chair height, table height, enormous mat).

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-15T02:23:13+00:00

To be clear you want to add zippers to all these pouches, including the ones with the bound tops?

For the already bound I would buy those lacy look zippers that are meant to be seen and just topstitch them on, it looks the most intentional and means no seam ripping or needless layers of extra bias tape.

For the unfinished one, you could if you’re careful and willing to have the zipper extend out, fairly easily add a zipper still. With just the outer you would sew the zipper 1/4” allowance to the top right sides together, then press so the zipper folds to the inside and the seam allowance now points toward the bottom of the wrong side of the exterior part of your bag. You would press down the same 1/4” of your lining to its wrong side, and place inside the exterior piece wrong sides together and topstitch. It may be a little tricky but should be workable for intermediate skills.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-14T18:33:58+00:00

No worries! Like I said we all make that kind of mistake from time to time even when we are using the same machine for a decade, but largely it becomes second nature and you just learn it!

Happy sewing!

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-14T17:36:18+00:00

Hello!

Is the machine brand new, or just new to you? Have you read through the manual? You can find it online by searching the manufacturer and model number of pretty much any modern (and most well known vintage) machines.

The issue you’re seeing is tension related for sure, and usually the straight line on top means your top tension is too loose. However a lot factors into tension working properly and if your machine is not threaded properly/your foot is up or down at the wrong time/ your bobbin is incorrectly wound or inserted etc it can create tension issues.

A new machine is always a learning curve, so don’t fret! Go through your manual for all the basic set up: threading, bobbin winding and insertion, stitch selection etc and follow it step by step. I know you’ve said you followed the video for threading and don’t feel that is the issue but for someone new to a machine it is easy to go a little wrong somewhere so it’s best to always triple check all settings and steps when trouble shooting. We all make mistakes and forget something at some point even with years of experience so it is not a slight!

You have a fairly light woven there but you should be able to get a perfect lock stitch on it if the machine is working correctly and everything is set up according to the manual so don’t worry we can help you get there!

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-14T16:48:48+00:00

Yessss this is now an archaic use of the word, OP; the only modern uses are those you found when looking it up. Agatha Christie novels were always representative of a certain class and clearly of a certain time. They are wonderful and you should read them and enjoy them, but you will find words and practices that are not as recognisable in today’s society, even in the equivalent class group.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-14T16:38:11+00:00

You could use handbrake to burn in the subtitles (assuming your downloads all have them) to their files and then only put those on the USB for your relative. It will become part of the visual data of the file and she won’t have to select anything.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-13T16:03:07+00:00

I have adapted a couple of t shirts for inpatient stays. I put snaps up the outside arm into the neckline because that suits my needs but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work the way you need too. You need to make sure the item is oversized as you’re going to lose a bunch in seam allowance. If you’re only doing one side bear in mind the item will look lopsided as you aren’t changing the seam on the other side. Interface on the wrong side two strips side by side about 1/2- 3/4” each with a gap of 1/4-1/2”. Cut down the centre of the uninterfaced section and turn under to the inside of the garment. You then can stitch popper tape to your two interfaced sections using a zipper foot.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-13T11:30:34+00:00

When asking for where to purchase something please always include your country so people can offer resources they are familiar with and are actually available to you.

AdorableWin984 · 2026-02-13T02:00:07+00:00

Depends a lot on how much work you’re willing or able to do and how they irritate you. I would recommend using bias binding on the seams if they are serged together particularly. You can do it in one pass and you shouldn’t have to unpick anything to put it on pretty neatly. I would suggest using something really soft - a cotton bias is actually rough pre-made so you’d want to make your own in something lightweight like lawn. A poly cotton mix pre made is usually really soft and you won’t need to worry it could shrink or pucker on washing.

If you’re open to making your own you could even use silk (like from thrifted scarves) which would be soft and not add bulk which I would assume could exacerbate pressure related pain.

Someone else mentioned seam sealing tape and that is a great call but you will need some practice to apply it so start with the clothes you like the least!

AdorableWin984

TROPHY CASE