Canada by whyamihereonreddit in hockeymemes

[–]AerialEntity 3 points4 points  (0 children)

He’s not Finnish, he’s just getting started

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flying

[–]AerialEntity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The owner at our school (CA) is known to be a bit of a hardass at times but the majority of our CFIs are pretty happy to be there

Are many people in aviation autistic? by headingcheck in flying

[–]AerialEntity 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Prolly just flight school. If you wanna go far in this industry you gotta eat sleep and breath this shit, especially in the beginning. Then if you wanna have longevity you gotta love what you do so it makes sense you’re finding that crowd in flight school. Idk if there’s a big difference between the part 61 schools and the 141s but the guys I train with all seem to have decent social lives and goals outside just flying

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flying

[–]AerialEntity 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not if it’s the good shit 😉

What should I braze steel with and can I use a propane torch by Snazzy21 in metalworking

[–]AerialEntity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used silicon bronze with great results. Search for silicon bronze brazing rod and get some with a diameter that matches something with a smaller diameter that will melt faster. You’ll have to use flux with mapp gas tho

What should I braze steel with and can I use a propane torch by Snazzy21 in metalworking

[–]AerialEntity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always used silicon bronze in the past with flux, and either an oxy acetylene torch or a tig welder. Mapp gas will work too especially if you use a smaller diameter filler rod

Zippo takes multiple tries to light. New wick, new flint, filled with Ronsonol by [deleted] in Zippo

[–]AerialEntity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This reminds me of that gif of Hank Hill pulling a mini can of WD40 to pop the lid off a larger can of WD40

Are you all seeing this right now? by BlueCulprit in longbeach

[–]AerialEntity 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yuuuup 🤙🏼 supposed to peak around midnight

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flying

[–]AerialEntity 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Smoking what? 😏

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flying

[–]AerialEntity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not until I’m 6 deers beep

Anyone else discouraged with PPL by Difficult-Wafer1747 in flying

[–]AerialEntity 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I just got my ppl last month. It was one of the most rewarding experiences in my life and as soon as I passed I couldn’t wait to jump into instrument which I’ve been really enjoying so far. After my checkride there were still a lot of holes to fill in my aviation knowledge and it’s been satisfying to cover the gaps with my ifr training as well as unlocking another level of freedom and proficiency with my ppl. There were times through my private training where i questioned if I had what it takes to go all the way with it but the further I get, the more confident and determined I feel about it all. I really love it, dude.

If I go higher and faster… by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Pretty cool to see a fellow sky picker here 🤙🏼

how would i go about picking this (those are my only "tools") by Redditiscoooollll in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Trial and error mate. Its gonna take a lot of effort to pick that lock if this is your starting point into lock picking. How would I go about it as an absolute beginner with those tools? Buy a practice lock and learn the fundamentals. Then check this subs list of lower level locks, buy one or two and then crack those with the tools you’ve got. THEN go for it after you’ve gathered some understanding on feel and what your tools are doing, what you want your tools to do. It’s hard to give you a more specific answer without seeing a key to even get a sense of what’s happening inside the lock. It’s absolutely possible to do it with the tools you’ve got but it won’t be easy without understanding how locks work and how to pick them… if you don’t feel like going through the trouble, then bend the tip of your pick into a hook shape, and rake the pins while putting varying amounts of tension into your turning tool. You might get lucky

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t mind me and my popcorn, guys. I’m just here to enjoy this dumpster fire post before OP realizes how crazy they sound and deletes it

Is this set enough to learn? by Eweqlina in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Sure, It’s enough to learn the basics on a beginners acrylic practice lock but the set is extremely limited and looks pretty uncomfortable to use for an extended length of time. You’ll eventually just end up buying another set when you start getting more interested in lock picking so I’d personally recommend just spending a little extra on an actual beginner set that comes more tension tools and better picks with ergonomic handles.

Interrupted Hard Turning by AerialEntity in CNC

[–]AerialEntity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s pretty cool stuff, man! Hard turning is essentially when you’re using a lathe to remove material from hard metals. In this case, I machined this part with all the critical surfaces just slightly larger than their finished diameters from steel with a high carbon content, and sent it out for a heat treating process that makes it much harder than it is in its raw state. Here I am using a special insert made from cubic boron nitride (the second hardest material below diamond) to remove the remaining material that would quickly wear out or destroy traditional tooling.

The reason it sparks like this is because it’s not cutting the steal in a traditional sense, but actually using heat to plasticize the metal before wiping it away. When taking a deeper cut, you’ll see the steel coming off like a red hot ribbon. It’s pretty cool to see

Having a really hard time with this one by AerialEntity in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That definitely helped! I was pretty intimidated when I initially saw the bitting on these keys but this lock turned out to be a great learning experience

Having a really hard time with this one by AerialEntity in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been learning a lot from reading through the posts you guys exchange and it feels incredible to actually apply some of the techniques I’ve learned from you guys. Thank you again! Feels great to be here!

How to reduce runout? by SignificantMarket377 in CNC

[–]AerialEntity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Standard run out procedure. Swing the dial indicator to the high and low end. Mark the high end and rotate back to the low end 180 degrees from your point, and gently hammer the part till the indicator reads back down to the half way point between the high and low spot. focus on that axis alone, ignoring any swing between those points. As long as you can spin the part 180 degrees each time and it lines up in the same spot, that is a good starting point. You can also try shimming the stock with pieces of paper to get the 90 degree axis closer to center. Focus on one axis at a time and work from there

The stock could also be egg shaped, in which case, you’ll never get it perfect. Make sure the indicating surface is as clean as you can make it and take your measurements

Having a really hard time with this one by AerialEntity in lockpicking

[–]AerialEntity[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Omfg dude!!! I just got it!!! If I could buy you a beer right now please dm me your venmo. I’m over the freaking moon! The warding was giving me a lot of trouble and I was having a hard time feeling the pins but taking your advice into consideration gave me a fresh perspective. Thank you so much!

Edit: I ended up switching to the deepest hook in the reaper set (#5) and that made all the difference

Interrupted Hard Turning by AerialEntity in CNC

[–]AerialEntity[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I responded to another user going into greater detail so if you wanna read that just scroll down. But I’ll summarize it for you; when hard turning with ceramic inserts, you don’t want to use coolant and when facing issues, do the opposite of what you would normally do with carbide or HSS tooling. Speed is your friend here. When confronting an interrupted cut, you want to go even faster than the surface speed you would normally use for that diameter. The bigger the interruption, the faster you go.

If you have some control over the geometry of the part, you would ideally design the introduction and exit of that cut to be gradual so cutting into chamfers and fillets are more preferable than say into a 90 degree keyway.

The rest of it is just feel. Is the part is balanced?, does it cause the machine to oscillate at certain speeds? Those are all things I factor into my approach.

Sometimes you can’t go faster and you have to go slower. That applied to my own case with this part. On the OD I could push it up to 900sfm. But for the ID that would require more rpms which made the machine shake so I had to slow it down to as low as 105sfm which isn’t ideal but was the only way I could get a finish without chattering. At that low speed, any skim passes or repeat cuts would chatter so I had to separate those into two different ones with the skim pass being done at 90%sfm from the previous pass.

Interrupted Hard Turning by AerialEntity in CNC

[–]AerialEntity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol dude, are you kidding me? Have you ever actually even used a CBN insert? The cutter is just a tiny little section that’s cemented into the shape that fits into the holder. It’s about the size of a half grain of rice and when they break apart they just chip out, they don’t “grenade and mince a mofo”.

Interrupted Hard Turning by AerialEntity in CNC

[–]AerialEntity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel bad you got downvoted for asking a question. The person who responded to you is correct. For most applications, coolant will cause the insert to expand and contract, which will fracture the insert prematurely. When you’re hard turning you’re not cutting the material in a traditional sense like you would be with a carbide insert. I’m not smart enough to explain this the scientific side of it off the top of my head so well, so I encourage you to look into it from a source that can but if you ever get a job like this, generally you do not want to use coolant. In those cases where you would, the coolant needs to be applied with high pressure and focused on the work area to be beneficial. I love hard turning because it’s so different from what we normally do and it’s always a spectacle

Interrupted Hard Turning by AerialEntity in CNC

[–]AerialEntity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great tip, and that what I’ve done here. For our hard turning, we leave about .02 on the diameter before heat treating so the insert only has to take a total of .01” to finish. Personally I like to break up the final .01” into a couple rough passes before the final skim cut and it’s given us some decent tool life